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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 09-14-2014, 04:59 PM
  #14371  
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Finally finished mine!

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Old 09-14-2014, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
which ballstuds are you guys using for the alum rear hubs? 8mm?
Yes thats what most all use. There is one location that you need to use a 6mm and that is the forward inside location. If you use a BS that is too long it will damage the bearing sleeve and bearing.
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Old 09-14-2014, 05:54 PM
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Hey guys I'm looking for more steering coming in to the Conners I'm running 1.4- 1.6 piston 30F 27/1/2 shock weight, dirt webs all around. Front and rear rear motor b5 arms. Does any one have any pointers?
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Old 09-14-2014, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by luist99
Hey guys I'm looking for more steering coming in to the Conners I'm running 1.4- 1.6 piston 30F 27/1/2 shock weight, dirt webs all around. Front and rear rear motor b5 arms. Does any one have any pointers?
Go back to the gullwing and mid motor rear arms...
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Old 09-14-2014, 07:06 PM
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So went back to mm on an outdoor track again... Had bad luck and gave up too quick last time!!! Had great results today... Moved rear hubs all the way forward and used b5r arms front and back. This thing stuck all the way around the track like glue... Problem im having is the two middle doubles i cant get enough speed and have to hit it just right to clear them. Running 72-33 but not enough speed. Running that same gearing in my rear motor i could clear the doubles with ease!! Any suggestions?? A friend suggested going down on the spur to 69 and pinion to 34ish. If i went down on spur wouldnt i lose more top end yet?? I know the mm is alot heavier but it seems like a dog compared the the rm!!! Im torn between the two!! Any suggested on the 69/72 spurs?? Thanks guys and hope i can figure this out... By the way running reedy 17.5 blinky mode gen2 esc... Large outdoor 1/8 scale size track with multiple doubles and a triple.
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Old 09-14-2014, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Skeeter36
Yes thats what most all use. There is one location that you need to use a 6mm and that is the forward inside location. If you use a BS that is too long it will damage the bearing sleeve and bearing.
cool thanks. I have to snag some 8mm ones. gonna have to look and see if I can steal some off my RM car until I get them in. That poor car just keeps getting molested for parts haha. I have everything I need to actually put it back together too... just not the time.

Guess that's next week's project lol.
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Old 09-14-2014, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by deftones.jt@gma
So went back to mm on an outdoor track again... Had bad luck and gave up too quick last time!!! Had great results today... Moved rear hubs all the way forward and used b5r arms front and back. This thing stuck all the way around the track like glue... Problem im having is the two middle doubles i cant get enough speed and have to hit it just right to clear them. Running 72-33 but not enough speed. Running that same gearing in my rear motor i could clear the doubles with ease!! Any suggestions?? A friend suggested going down on the spur to 69 and pinion to 34ish. If i went down on spur wouldnt i lose more top end yet?? I know the mm is alot heavier but it seems like a dog compared the the rm!!! Im torn between the two!! Any suggested on the 69/72 spurs?? Thanks guys and hope i can figure this out... By the way running reedy 17.5 blinky mode gen2 esc... Large outdoor 1/8 scale size track with multiple doubles and a triple.
On our large outdoor track I went to 69/38 20timing. Give it a try, you will have a lot more topspeed.

Last edited by suby723; 09-14-2014 at 07:46 PM.
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Old 09-14-2014, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by suby723
On our large outdoor track I went to 78/38 20timing. Give it a try, you will have a lot more topspeed.
Wow you could fit that big of a spur with that size pinion?
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Old 09-14-2014, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by deftones.jt@gma
Wow you could fit that big of a spur with that size pinion?
Crap ment 69*****
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Old 09-14-2014, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by suby723
Crap ment 69*****
Cool... Ya i was wondering...
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Old 09-14-2014, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by luist99
Hey guys I'm looking for more steering coming in to the Conners I'm running 1.4- 1.6 piston 30F 27/1/2 shock weight, dirt webs all around. Front and rear rear motor b5 arms. Does any one have any pointers?
If you have the gold colored offset caster block bushings you could try raising the front spindle height that should give you some more steering without changing arms and tower. Also where are your rear hubs located because that can effect the steering as well.
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Old 09-14-2014, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Skeeter36
If you have the gold colored offset caster block bushings you could try raising the front spindle height that should give you some more steering without changing arms and tower. Also where are your rear hubs located because that can effect the steering as well.
Do I have to have the gold spacer can't I use the plastic to raise it? I have them in the middle. Also I'm still running the plastics rear hubs, I'm thinking of getting the aluminum ones but not sure if the would improve anything.
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Old 09-15-2014, 06:30 AM
  #14383  
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I seem to have a lot of play in my rear and front hubs. It's been this way since I first built it.

Anyone have any advice on tightening it up?

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 09-15-2014, 06:37 AM
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Your always going to have some "play" in a offroad car, if it was tight, it would all bind up once dirt gets into everything.

You could use shims to tighten some of your car up a little more ( like the rear shafts moving in and out), just be careful not to make things too tight or you will most certainly have binding issues.
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Old 09-15-2014, 06:42 AM
  #14385  
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Originally Posted by Jeepy2013
Your always going to have some "play" in a offroad car, if it was tight, it would all bind up once dirt gets into everything.

You could use shims to tighten some of your car up a little more ( like the rear shafts moving in and out), just be careful not to make things too tight or you will most certainly have binding issues.
Sweet, thank you.

I sort of thought it was normal given it built that way. Just seemed like a bit too much play.
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