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Old 06-27-2015, 12:16 PM   #14296
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Jason, nice vid on the B5M Lite. Mine's still in the box but itching to get to it.
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Old 06-27-2015, 01:51 PM   #14297
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What are the different handling characteristics for the jc finisher and jc silencer bodies?
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Old 06-27-2015, 04:52 PM   #14298
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Today I was racing on an indoor track that is normally damp with good traction but today it dried out and I lost all rear traction exiting corners. I am running a box stock set up except for RM arms front and rear and a RM front shock tower. Any set up suggestions?
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Old 06-27-2015, 04:54 PM   #14299
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Today I was racing on an indoor track that is normally damp with good traction but today it dried out and I lost all rear traction exiting corners. I am running a box stock set up except for RM arms front and rear and a RM front shock tower. Any set up suggestions?
Use the slipper clutch, move rear hubs forward, go from pucks to stock drives. Tire suited for dry conditions. Thicker fluid in the hydra drive.
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Old 06-27-2015, 08:03 PM   #14300
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Today I was racing on an indoor track that is normally damp with good traction but today it dried out and I lost all rear traction exiting corners. I am running a box stock set up except for RM arms front and rear and a RM front shock tower. Any set up suggestions?
I would try more droop in the front and kick out the rear shock to the outer hole on the arm. Worked for me when we had a spell of bad traction (rain washed the sugar off the track). There are obviously a lot of other things that you could do but I would start simple.
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Old 06-27-2015, 09:50 PM   #14301
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Dont change your setup, change your tires.
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Old 06-27-2015, 10:07 PM   #14302
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Should you turn brakes down via DR or going into EPA? Whats the difference?
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Old 06-27-2015, 10:35 PM   #14303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KAWIDAD View Post
What are the different handling characteristics for the jc finisher and jc silencer bodies?
For me the finisher locked in the rear end a little better and was a very neutral feeling body. The silencer has a more front positive feel to it, but that doesn't mean the rear end is very loose. It is still locked in, the car just reacts a little better. Personally I prefer the Silencer body on higher grip tracks, particularly indoor clay and carpet. Due to rain I haven't been able to test it out yet on an outdoor lower grip track. Outdoors the finnisher ran very well, and I don't know if I would need the extra steering from the Silencer.

The finnisher has much better airflow to the motor, if temps would be a problem. Though the Silencer does have areas for vent holes on the front end of the body (I have not cut any out).
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Old 06-28-2015, 09:00 AM   #14304
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Should you turn brakes down via DR or going into EPA? Whats the difference?
http://www.futaba-rc.com/faq/faq-9c-q501.html

In layman's terms:

Dual rate affects the amount of movement seen on the other end to the same input on the radio end. (ratio)

EPA is the amount of movement total (how far your servo will move or not)

Exponential is movement on a curve vs linear...can be made to start hard and die off or start soft and climb or linear


It all depends on how you want to manipulate your brakes. Are they locking up? I would use the ESC. Are they coming on too hard or too soft? Use the radio exponential adjustment or EPA.
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Old 06-28-2015, 10:19 AM   #14305
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Should you turn brakes down via DR or going into EPA? Whats the difference?
I used the ESC to turn brakes down. This gave me the full throw on the trigger still, so I could still modulate them when needed.
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Old 06-28-2015, 03:41 PM   #14306
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Should you turn brakes down via DR or going into EPA? Whats the difference?
Generally dual rate will turn down both directions, meaning both brakes and throttle. So brake side EPA to just adjust brakes without changing the throttle settings. I agree available ESC brake settings should be used to get a suitable overall range, but I think fine tuning brake strength per conditions with the radio EPA is very valuable. In my opinion a radio must have a convenient brake adjustment feature to be considered race worthy.
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Old 06-28-2015, 04:14 PM   #14307
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Interesting, I have always just calibrated ESC at 100/100 then turned it down to 100/80.

So to turn the brake down on the Orions you need the program box?
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Old 06-28-2015, 07:37 PM   #14308
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I am new to racing and to AE. I picked up a B5M lite and I want to run stock 17.5. I have a motor/esc but I need to get a battery for that class.

Do I need to put much stock into the weight of the battery? I'm sure I'll need a regular size "Shorty" instead of the thin pack to meet min weight of 1500. When looking at a battery for this class specifically, do I need a HUGE mah and a 100c rating? Or, is it better to conserve weight with a 3800-ish mah 50c-70c range battery?
Its not just the battery anymore its how people are charging them. Most people have the Ichargers and will charge their 3800 batteries at 25amps or higher instead of the 3.8amps it calls for. Not good for the battery but the power is unbelievable. I for one haven't invested in the $300 plus chargers and just deal with it.
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Old 06-28-2015, 11:59 PM   #14309
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what is the difference in the v2 pistons? can you use original pistons on the new V2 shafts?
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Old 06-29-2015, 03:20 AM   #14310
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Neg, center hole is bigger.
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