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Old 06-25-2015, 11:17 AM   #14281
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About time that they failed after a year...haha I have had it happen as well with some of my other platforms but not on my B5M yet but I replace bearings probably more often than is actually needed.
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Old 06-25-2015, 02:39 PM   #14282
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Just built my fox shocks using the new pistons and supplied washer. I noticed the front pistons spin freely and the rears do not. The screw is snugged down equally on f/r. Anyone else have this? I'm wondering if ill see any effect from this?

Edit: just adding i have the gold shafts with flat 3x1.4f/2x1.6r
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Old 06-25-2015, 04:18 PM   #14283
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Originally Posted by onefast8 View Post
Just built my fox shocks using the new pistons and supplied washer. I noticed the front pistons spin freely and the rears do not. The screw is snugged down equally on f/r. Anyone else have this? I'm wondering if ill see any effect from this?
Mine were the same way. Must be something slightly off with the tolerances. Its a tough one to design, too loose and you get piston flutter, too tight and it distorts the piston. I'll be shimming the looseness out of mine, flutter is no good.
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Old 06-25-2015, 04:23 PM   #14284
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Originally Posted by motorcitymatt View Post
The claim from AE is the +4mm mount "improves stability". It is a little hard to quantify how this change affects the car when you consider how many things are impacted by the changes in geometry, which include but are not limited to the following:
  • Lowers the static roll center due to the increased length of the upper link (assuming the same locations and shimming are used on each side)
  • Alters camber gain due to the increased length of the upper link
  • Affects suspension as the rear shock gets laid down by moving the arm out
  • Reduces rear droop
  • The wheel rate increases (center line of the wheel closer to the outer hinge pin) See section 2.8 here: Wheel Rate
  • Having the center line of the wheel closer the outer hinge pin also reduces the amount of force transferred to the upper link
I leave it to you all to interpret how all this adds up to "improved stability". Maybe someone from AE would be willing to elaborate/explain the reasoning behind it?

I recently put the +4mm mount on the car but without being able to run it back-to-back under the same exact track conditions without it I cannot really say with confidence how it changes the handling characteristics. I might venture to say the rear end feels a bit more "locked in" on a medium/high bite indoor clay track but take that with a grain of salt.

If I have a chance to try the regular mount in the same session I will post my experience here.
Good post.

The Roll stiffness will increase do to the pivot points being further apart.
The wheel rate will not change do to the leverage ratio being the same. The shock maybe closer to the wheel, but thats assuming just the shock pivot point moved, not the whole arm.
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Old 06-25-2015, 06:38 PM   #14285
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Originally Posted by onefast8 View Post
Just built my fox shocks using the new pistons and supplied washer. I noticed the front pistons spin freely and the rears do not. The screw is snugged down equally on f/r. Anyone else have this? I'm wondering if ill see any effect from this?
Just built mine up as well. All four pistons are tight and don't spin. Guess it's just hit/miss.
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Old 06-25-2015, 07:33 PM   #14286
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Had an interesting failure while racing tonight. Has anyone ever experienced this?

I was driving a normal lap and had just landed a jump, went to turn and the wheel fell off. Upon further investigation I found that the inner front hub bearing had failed.

They are kit bearings, about a year old. They weren't gritty yet and I had kept them oiled. They were on their second race day since a full cleaning.

Just thought I'd share, I literally drove the wheels off of it!







AE uses SHITE bearings to maximize profits. Many B5 kit bearings have failed just like yours
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Old 06-25-2015, 07:57 PM   #14287
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The wheel rate will not change do to the leverage ratio being the same.
I did not state it in my original post but my assumption is that when using the +4mm mount the 5mm width hexes are being used with it as AE recommends. This reduces the rear track 2mm on each side so you end up with the same rear track width. This of course does result in a different leverage ratio and hence an altered wheel rate.

But thanks for pointing that out. Without the hexes on there too the wheel rate does not change.

And one more thing for anyone with an original B5M (not the Lite) looking to try this out. You DO need the HD axles (#71019) because they are a slightly larger diameter and the 5mm hexes are machined to accommodate this larger diameter.
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Old 06-25-2015, 11:07 PM   #14288
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i just posted a review of the B5M Factory Lite if anyone feels like checking out a new vid

"Jason Snyder's Tips, Tricks, How To's, and Reviews"
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Old 06-26-2015, 09:54 AM   #14289
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I am new to racing and to AE. I picked up a B5M lite and I want to run stock 17.5. I have a motor/esc but I need to get a battery for that class.

Do I need to put much stock into the weight of the battery? I'm sure I'll need a regular size "Shorty" instead of the thin pack to meet min weight of 1500. When looking at a battery for this class specifically, do I need a HUGE mah and a 100c rating? Or, is it better to conserve weight with a 3800-ish mah 50c-70c range battery?
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Old 06-26-2015, 11:30 AM   #14290
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The 3800 50-70C battery will do just fine!
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Old 06-26-2015, 12:21 PM   #14291
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Originally Posted by Redsawacs View Post
I am new to racing and to AE. I picked up a B5M lite and I want to run stock 17.5. I have a motor/esc but I need to get a battery for that class.

Do I need to put much stock into the weight of the battery? I'm sure I'll need a regular size "Shorty" instead of the thin pack to meet min weight of 1500. When looking at a battery for this class specifically, do I need a HUGE mah and a 100c rating? Or, is it better to conserve weight with a 3800-ish mah 50c-70c range battery?
just get a turnigy ultimate pack. they are pretty good and like $40 shipped.
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Old 06-26-2015, 12:52 PM   #14292
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Thanks guys
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Old 06-27-2015, 09:14 AM   #14293
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http://www.redrc.net/2015/06/mip-b5m...-in-1-box-set/



Quote:
MIP’s Box gearbox for the Team Associated B5M has received a running change in the form of the MIP Eco All-In-1 Box that accommodates all current Team Associated and MIP topshafts on the market for the B5M and T5M platforms. Generally the gearbox bridges a gap and gives the mid motor vehicle all the benefits of the rear motor car but less drag and more initial punch with one less idler gear. The all-aluminium construct offers an advantage pertaining to more precise internal gear mesh, less overall heat, and stiffer bracing, better bearing seats and over 10 percent of the gear box weight reduced from the original box.

Features:
– Machined cases offer higher precision
– Aluminium construct acts as a giant heat sink
– Aluminium construct will offer stiffer bracing over plastic OEM case
– Aluminium 3-gear MIP Transmission package is relatively the same overall weight as OEM 4-gear transmission
– Motor offset 3mm to the right to optimise left to right weight distribution and balance
– Less drag than a four gear transmission design
– Can incorporate 5mm or 6mm I.D. bearings on top shaft
– 50% lighter gear cover over stock
– 7075 Aluminium
– Made 100% in the USA
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Old 06-27-2015, 12:07 PM   #14294
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so it now uses 5x10x4 bearings?
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Old 06-27-2015, 12:09 PM   #14295
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so it now uses 5x10x4 bearings?
It uses both.

Not like you were waiting for this to buy one! lol
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