137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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09-01-2014, 02:26 PM
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I just put on the aluminum rear hubs and camber link. I was running the stock setup prior to this (middle hole up on the hubs and +2 on the camber block). The hubs had instructions on which hole and spacing to get the stock position. Am I correct in understanding that on the camber block I either need to run it in the +2 side up with 0 spacers or -2 side up and 4mm spacers on the ball? Thanks for the help!
09-01-2014, 02:51 PM
Hi guys,
Anyone here came from a RB6 (MM)? I am thinking of swopping my RB6 for a B5M, but would like to understand the difference is handling characteristics before diving in please.
I would like to ask some questions for mod, assuming same set-up, tires, prep etc.
Questions:
1. Which has more rear grip in medium to high bite clay conditions?
2. Which has better parts quality? Durability?
Anyone here came from a RB6 (MM)? I am thinking of swopping my RB6 for a B5M, but would like to understand the difference is handling characteristics before diving in please.
I would like to ask some questions for mod, assuming same set-up, tires, prep etc.
Questions:
1. Which has more rear grip in medium to high bite clay conditions?
2. Which has better parts quality? Durability?
I still have my RB6 MM but I sold my RM version. I go back and forth between cars. The B5M feels more stable. The RB6 just seems like no what I do it just has too much steering and compared to my B5 its loose. I have a couple friends sponsored by Kyosho so my setups are good....I get pro advice.
As far as parts quality goes a year ago I would have told you that Kyosho is by far the best but since Thunder Tiger bought AE the quality has really inproved. I race 3 B5s and so far I have not broken anything....I do not carry any parts to the track. In fact the quality of the drivetrain parts is excellent. If you are like me and you replace things during the course of regular maintanence you may never break anything. They are really tough. I have a little more time with the RB6 but the quality was never an issue. I have yet to break anything other than an arm or rear bulkhead on the RB6.
When you consider how good a B5 is right out of the box you will find that it is a much better value than a Kyosho. I cannot wait until they come out with a full line. Now that AE has the X rings too and you can build shocks that don't leak. Don't get me wrong. Kyosho has always had excellent cars but now AE has cars that are as good at half the price.
09-01-2014, 03:00 PM
I still have my RB6 MM but I sold my RM version. I go back and forth between cars. The B5M feels more stable. The RB6 just seems like no what I do it just has too much steering and compared to my B5 its loose. I have a couple friends sponsored by Kyosho so my setups are good....I get pro advice.
As far as parts quality goes a year ago I would have told you that Kyosho is by far the best but since Thunder Tiger bought AE the quality has really inproved. I race 3 B5s and so far I have not broken anything....I do not carry any parts to the track. In fact the quality of the drivetrain parts is excellent. If you are like me and you replace things during the course of regular maintanence you may never break anything. They are really tough. I have a little more time with the RB6 but the quality was never an issue. I have yet to break anything other than an arm or rear bulkhead on the RB6.
When you consider how good a B5 is right out of the box you will find that it is a much better value than a Kyosho. I cannot wait until they come out with a full line. Now that AE has the X rings too and you can build shocks that don't leak. Don't get me wrong. Kyosho has always had excellent cars but now AE has cars that are as good at half the price.
As far as parts quality goes a year ago I would have told you that Kyosho is by far the best but since Thunder Tiger bought AE the quality has really inproved. I race 3 B5s and so far I have not broken anything....I do not carry any parts to the track. In fact the quality of the drivetrain parts is excellent. If you are like me and you replace things during the course of regular maintanence you may never break anything. They are really tough. I have a little more time with the RB6 but the quality was never an issue. I have yet to break anything other than an arm or rear bulkhead on the RB6.
When you consider how good a B5 is right out of the box you will find that it is a much better value than a Kyosho. I cannot wait until they come out with a full line. Now that AE has the X rings too and you can build shocks that don't leak. Don't get me wrong. Kyosho has always had excellent cars but now AE has cars that are as good at half the price.
I just recently went back to the rb6 after owning the b5m since launch and i love both cars. Both cars Im just as fast in with the same setups. My times are so close. 1/10ths off in comparison.
Reason I went back to rb6 wasnt cuase I disliked my b5m by no means but cause I wanted a mid motor sc6. :P So i switched.
09-01-2014, 03:04 PM
There's no way we can give you spot on advice without knowing more about the track you plan on running on. You can't go wrong starting at 69/30 or 72/31. Our track is 110 x 70 or so and its been really hot. I'm running 69/32 with a 17.5 (can timing cranked). A friend of mine runs 69/34 w/his 17.5. Generally speaking I've heard the D4 likes to be geared a little tall.
09-01-2014, 03:15 PM
Just got mine, I'm going to use it for mod and keep the mm for stock. Sounds backwards I know but I want the one easier to drive for mod since I don't get to the track as much these days.
Last edited by DG Designs; 09-03-2014 at 08:31 AM.
09-01-2014, 03:44 PM
They still work great-and are easier to replace! 
I've seen it asked quite a few times and I don't think it would matter or make that much of a difference between glued/unglued/foam/nofoam.
09-01-2014, 03:50 PM
Concerning the problem with the ball diff I had a few pages ago I have "solved" the problem today or rather discovered what went wrong.
Yesterday I tested the car and tried setting up the slipper on the track only to find that the car was making a heavy grunting noise when blocking both rear wheel... It couldn't be the diff anymore as I have a gear one in. In fact it was the motor which was stalling ! Changed the motor and solved the problem
.
Lesson of the day do not mix brands of esc with motors.
Jonathan
Yesterday I tested the car and tried setting up the slipper on the track only to find that the car was making a heavy grunting noise when blocking both rear wheel... It couldn't be the diff anymore as I have a gear one in. In fact it was the motor which was stalling ! Changed the motor and solved the problem
. Lesson of the day do not mix brands of esc with motors.
Jonathan
09-01-2014, 03:52 PM
I just spend 3 days at SRS racing for the grand opening. I had mixed feelings about the MM in the beginning. But after making a few changes, I ended up gaining an entire lap and made the A-main. What kind of changes gain you 25 seconds? Ones that make the car not suck to drive, lol. It would randomly flip over when landing jumps and traction rolls were a huge pain. Even at low speeds I was rolling. So then 3 hings happened. First, SRS got up early and they were packing the track. It was spongy and bumpy with tons of grip. Secondly, I upped my front spring rate to grays from greens. On the sweeping turns it felt like the front end needed more support. It was rolling too quick and causing the front to dip, on the off camber sweeper. Thus, flipping the car. The spring rate change fixed that and the flipping on landings. I think the front was bottoming out on landings and "sticking" to the track. Since the track was bumpy and very tacky, the car get unsettled and flip. But I was still traction rolling in the 180s. I was trying to not to brake a ton and carry speed. But I needed the rear end to be more freed up. My first thought was move the rear hubs back. I had the RM rear arms and hubs forward. So, I moved the hubs all the way back. I ran a few practice laps and it felt good. The car was easy to drive and the rear broke free enough for me to not use brakes and still hit the corners very hard. After all of that I dropped about 25 seconds, because my wheels were down more often. In my first qual after making the changes, the marshals never even touched my car Also, I am the only one running a setup like mine lol. But it really worked for me and the car was a blast. Able to drive it sooooo hard and corner so fast. Kinda reminded me or onroad racing with all the traction. And yeah, the is no "groove" per say. There is traction everywhere, lol. We had a few out of state people comment in the crazy traction we had. I ended up slicking my clay tires, as it was the best on the surface.
Also, I am the only one running a setup like mine lol. But it really worked for me and the car was a blast. Able to drive it sooooo hard and corner so fast. Kinda reminded me or onroad racing with all the traction. And yeah, the is no "groove" per say. There is traction everywhere, lol. We had a few out of state people comment in the crazy traction we had. I ended up slicking my clay tires, as it was the best on the surface.
09-01-2014, 03:55 PM
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confirms my thoughts 8)
ed
09-01-2014, 04:04 PM
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Wildcat..I thought you were putting the MM on the the shelf
Second, I don't know if I would like it if my tracks ran slicks or not..Would easier on the wallet but chasing the right tire for traction is part of the fun for us.
Second, I don't know if I would like it if my tracks ran slicks or not..Would easier on the wallet but chasing the right tire for traction is part of the fun for us.
09-01-2014, 04:19 PM
lol, MM is like a drug...I cant stop. We have too much traction to not take advantage of MM. Rm is fine, but MM has a much better feel on these tracks.
Last edited by Wildcat1971; 09-01-2014 at 04:32 PM.
09-01-2014, 04:58 PM
Wildcat...
Now time to clean up that mess of a wiring job...LOL
Now time to clean up that mess of a wiring job...LOL
09-01-2014, 05:01 PM
then do yourself a favor and take the rear motor car and convert it to Mid motor so you have only 1 option. make one stock one mod
09-01-2014, 05:02 PM
lol, I converted back from RM at the last moment. I ordered some TQ triple Black and I plan to replace the servo lead with a shorter lead that is all black. I actually weight is once. Using a short lead saves me 8 grams over that super long stock one. Unsure with to so about the stupid transponder wire. That shit is very stiff and not easily replaceable. So I just did a big coil. I might just put my AMB back in. The wires are much easier to work with
09-01-2014, 05:05 PM
lol, my 8 year old is driving the RM. I dont think I will be changing back this time. Unless I travel and run on a loose and loamy track, I will stay MM. The RM is fine and some RM cars did beat me, but I like the MM car better. Both have their pros and cons, but now that I have the weight down to 1550, them temps are fine and the car is much more nimble.