137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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08-29-2014, 04:03 PM
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
I saw some of the "brick" talk on bookface before the Nats. I don't see why the brick packs should be a huge issue. They're nothing more than a saddle pack put together, which is a legal layout/style. I understand that ROAR is trying to keep chassis manufacturers from designing cars around a proprietary pack (hexagons, triangles etc.) But a brick and saddle are basically the same. IMO, ROAR should approve both cars and batteries to run any of the following..and then close the rule book on it for a set number of years.
standard sticks
shorties (almost an industry standard now)
bricks (it's a side by side saddle anyway)
standard sticks
shorties (almost an industry standard now)
bricks (it's a side by side saddle anyway)
08-29-2014, 04:26 PM
Spent alot of timing searching and coming up with multiple answers and need some advice before tomorrow. I just converted both of my buggies to MM. Went out and practiced last night and these were horrible handling. I used the flat arms with rear tower and rear b5r arms. My setup is basically to the book minus the arm conversions. Only other thing i can think of is i used 3+2 on the back hinge mount. Im running on outdoor dusty large 1/8 scale track. Big technical parts with multiple turns!! Can be very loose!! Running with calibers on rear or goose bumps or dd's!! Ribs on front!!! My problem is the rear is so loose!!! No grip at all!! Both buggies just will not hook!!! I need some help before racing tomorrow.... Thanks wildcat 1971 for ur input also!!
Brass c block
3+0 pill ( 3 degree toe 0 anti squat)
Rm plastic rear arms with hubs all the way forward.
Shocks all inside on rear tower, inside on arm
No shims under rear ball stud mount. (Assuming plastic)
Rear shocks
Green springs on 3x1.4 30 wt.
2 limiters
Try to gear around 100 total teeth. (Moves motor closer to rear axle)
If you still need extra help squaring up, use .5 degree outer hubs
If you need more stability in sliding rear in corners, longer rear link.
08-29-2014, 04:27 PM
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Then you've missed a lot, including the reason for his sarcasm. Water under the bridge at this point my friend.
08-29-2014, 04:29 PM
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,482
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
As you run your tires in a certain direction, you begin to wear off the leading corner edge of the "pin" of the tire. As that "face" starts to grow, you start gaining traction. If you swap your rear tires Left to Right, you are now driving on the backside of the pin, where it isn't broken in yet. In offroad racing, make sure you never swap/rotate your drive tires. Always mark one "R", and one "L" and run them that way till the tires are no good.
On the same coin, I always rotate my fronts.
On the same coin, I always rotate my fronts.
What's funny is I don't rotate my fronts. Don't know why, nobody told me not to, I just don't. Now which one of us is wrong? Ready for a super mod throw down?
08-29-2014, 04:42 PM
08-29-2014, 08:48 PM
jB
08-29-2014, 09:05 PM
Start with this rear end.
Brass c block
3+0 pill ( 3 degree toe 0 anti squat)
Rm plastic rear arms with hubs all the way forward.
Shocks all inside on rear tower, inside on arm
No shims under rear ball stud mount. (Assuming plastic)
Rear shocks
Green springs on 3x1.4 30 wt.
2 limiters
Try to gear around 100 total teeth. (Moves motor closer to rear axle)
If you still need extra help squaring up, use .5 degree outer hubs
If you need more stability in sliding rear in corners, longer rear link.
Brass c block
3+0 pill ( 3 degree toe 0 anti squat)
Rm plastic rear arms with hubs all the way forward.
Shocks all inside on rear tower, inside on arm
No shims under rear ball stud mount. (Assuming plastic)
Rear shocks
Green springs on 3x1.4 30 wt.
2 limiters
Try to gear around 100 total teeth. (Moves motor closer to rear axle)
If you still need extra help squaring up, use .5 degree outer hubs
If you need more stability in sliding rear in corners, longer rear link.
Biggest thing i found for track like that was loosening slipper off a couple turns as well.
08-29-2014, 10:28 PM
The B5M stock seems really soft to me out of the box. My car isn't very good on our high grip indoor clay track with weight removed (need to try a shorty though). I just picked up a B5R to try also.
08-29-2014, 10:30 PM
So what does the 4mm trailing axle do over the 3?
I'm currently running 3 forward, if I put the 4 in what can I expect?
I'm currently running 3 forward, if I put the 4 in what can I expect?
08-30-2014, 03:27 AM
Front wheel caster or trail: too little
Car too sensitive (twitchy?)
Too little steering feel and feedback
Front wheel caster or trail: too much
Excessive physical steering effort accompanied by too much self return action and transmittal of road shocks to the drivers hands
General lack of sensitivity to steering input due to excessive force required
From http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Vehic...d_Effect_Guide
Car too sensitive (twitchy?)
Too little steering feel and feedback
Front wheel caster or trail: too much
Excessive physical steering effort accompanied by too much self return action and transmittal of road shocks to the drivers hands
General lack of sensitivity to steering input due to excessive force required
From http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Vehic...d_Effect_Guide
08-30-2014, 06:18 AM
Anyone got any recommendations for running on carpet? The car was pretty decent out of the box. Running a speed passion reventon R and 13.5 SP motor.
08-30-2014, 08:15 AM
I saw some of the "brick" talk on bookface before the Nats. I don't see why the brick packs should be a huge issue. They're nothing more than a saddle pack put together, which is a legal layout/style. I understand that ROAR is trying to keep chassis manufacturers from designing cars around a proprietary pack (hexagons, triangles etc.) But a brick and saddle are basically the same. IMO, ROAR should approve both cars and batteries to run any of the following..and then close the rule book on it for a set number of years.
standard sticks
shorties (almost an industry standard now)
bricks (it's a side by side saddle anyway)
standard sticks
shorties (almost an industry standard now)
bricks (it's a side by side saddle anyway)
08-30-2014, 08:15 AM
From my experience if the car behaves it good out of the box I have found that putting a pro setup on it makes it worse because it follows their driving style (of even carpet condition) rather than mine. If I were you I'd make little changes only and only the ones that definitely improves one at a time. If it seems the same go back to original. Usually out of the box setup is balanced.
Jonathan
Jonathan
08-30-2014, 09:57 AM
For carpet make sure it is SLAMMED to the ground, really low like 17mm. That alone should really help. Also if you have the gear diff they tend to work better on carpet, although I have not tried the gear diff in this car.
08-30-2014, 11:25 AM
3mm will give more entry steering. the manual explains the effects and what ackerman and wb changes are reccomended with the changes.
best advice is take a practice day at your most visited track amd spend the day changing settings so you can see what effects you get with each change.