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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 05-27-2015, 09:19 PM   #13936
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Originally Posted by ignishen View Post
Anyone know about how long it takes for the Associated warranty department to process a request? I had a kit that had some funky ball studs in it. Shot them an email two weeks ago, with the form and receipt but never heard anything back.
I had the wrong spur gears, sent them an email, took around 48hrs to get a response and then I received the part 3-4 days later in the post.

Generally good communication and follow up though.
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Old 05-27-2015, 09:21 PM   #13937
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Set the timing to 40 degrees, and put on a 30X72. Run for 5 minutes, check temp. Keep temps under 150. If it's ice cold (it should be), go ahead and move to a 30x69.
Thanks Socket, suspected I might need to check a run with slower gearing, got a 72 in preparation as well. Thanks.
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Old 05-27-2015, 09:50 PM   #13938
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Alright!! B5M here I come!! Coming from a B5 RM - will convert to MM using the XFactory chassis
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:16 AM   #13939
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Hey guys, looking to get a little more juice out of my stock setup. Im running a reedy 17.5 with timing at about 40, coming off at about 130. My packs seem to drop off pretty hard about 3/4 in and I need to find some more power.

Would adding some boost to my LRP Flow ESC help? If so, anyone have any recommended settings?
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:26 AM   #13940
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Hey guys, looking to get a little more juice out of my stock setup. Im running a reedy 17.5 with timing at about 40, coming off at about 130. My packs seem to drop off pretty hard about 3/4 in and I need to find some more power.

Would adding some boost to my LRP Flow ESC help? If so, anyone have any recommended settings?
Is boost allowed in the class you race?
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:38 AM   #13941
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Quick question: is the MIP ball diff rebuild kit compatible with the stock B5 diff? I know the MIP rebuild kit for their B4/SC10 works with the older diff. I'm just not sure if the B5 MIP diff is different enough from the stock diff to make the rebuild kit not compatible.

Basically for the B4 series, the MIP rebuild kit is cheaper and has every little thing. I want to know if the B5 rebuild follows those lines or not.

Thanks for answering my silly question!
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:40 AM   #13942
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Quick question: is the MIP ball diff rebuild kit compatible with the stock B5 diff? I know the MIP rebuild kit for their B4/SC10 works with the older diff. I'm just not sure if the B5 MIP diff is different enough from the stock diff to make the rebuild kit not compatible.

Basically for the B4 series, the MIP rebuild kit is cheaper and has every little thing. I want to know if the B5 rebuild follows those lines or not.

Thanks for answering my silly question!
the rings and thrust are the same between the b4 and b5. But, I dont think MIP uses good balls. I am pretty sure they are just steel. I would get ceramic thrust balls and tungston carbide diff balls. Also, the B4 only had 12 balls vs the b5 14 calls in the diff.
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:43 AM   #13943
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Is boost allowed in the class you race?
It is, no weight, motor or any other restrictions. its a Pro and Sportsman class
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:46 AM   #13944
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It is, no weight, motor or any other restrictions. its a Pro and Sportsman class
If you run boost you should not run the motor timing at 40.
Your motor at 40 with boost
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:47 AM   #13945
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It is, no weight, motor or any other restrictions. its a Pro and Sportsman class
your voltage is most likely dropping off. A crappy IR will cause that or a low mah pack. If the power starts off good and goes away and the motor is not hot (heat can cause power fade), your battery might not be great. What gearing are you using?
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:55 AM   #13946
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your voltage is most likely dropping off. A crappy IR will cause that or a low mah pack. If the power starts off good and goes away and the motor is not hot (heat can cause power fade), your battery might not be great. What gearing are you using?
+1. That sounds like a battery issue. Boosting isn't going to help much.
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Old 05-30-2015, 11:39 AM   #13947
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For carpet, what would you guys do? Start with my base setup and lower ride height (like 19) and see how it is?

I bought a brass front bulkhead because that seemed like a popular upgrade, good buy? And a gear diff, going to start with 3000, what does going up and going down in fluid do?
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Old 05-30-2015, 11:48 AM   #13948
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
For carpet, what would you guys do? Start with my base setup and lower ride height (like 19) and see how it is?

I bought a brass front bulkhead because that seemed like a popular upgrade, good buy? And a gear diff, going to start with 3000, what does going up and going down in fluid do?
Honestly I wouldn't do the gear diff but if you are going to run it then start at 10k then either go up or down from there. Ride height depends on your track.
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Old 05-30-2015, 09:03 PM   #13949
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Originally Posted by WagwanBumba View Post
Alright!! B5M here I come!! Coming from a B5 RM - will convert to MM using the XFactory chassis
I started with a rear motor B5, then got a B5M, then converted to rear motor car to mid motor using the XFactory chassis. You are going to love the XFactory chassis car!
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Old 05-30-2015, 10:02 PM   #13950
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
For carpet, what would you guys do? Start with my base setup and lower ride height (like 19) and see how it is?

I bought a brass front bulkhead because that seemed like a popular upgrade, good buy? And a gear diff, going to start with 3000, what does going up and going down in fluid do?
Two goods choices to add to your tuning bucket.

As always though these items make up only part of your set up. Depends on track set up, straight length, corners, grip etc. Then it also depends on how often you change your tires, steering sensitivity etc.

I would start with 3k Diff Oil but also buy a 8K then swap and see for yourself how the car reacts on your track with your set up.

I run an additional 40g in the front of my car on top of the brass bulk head but what works for me may not work for you and your driving style.

Have fun testing!
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