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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 05-25-2015, 03:20 PM   #13906
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Originally Posted by mel_russ615 View Post
b5 rear motor flat arms and 3* trailing inserts
What ackerman?

For the inserts...go back to the number 4 trail.

What front axle height?
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Old 05-25-2015, 07:47 PM   #13907
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i changed the ackerman to match the 3* insert. the front axle height is middle.
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Old 05-25-2015, 08:24 PM   #13908
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I have read that putting the rear motor rear arms on will make the wheelbase shorter, put more weight on the rear wheels and help handling on low to medium traction tracks.

Considering trying it but don't know if I can just throw the arms on or do I need to replace other parts with it( like how the front tower needs to be changed with the front arms)
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Old 05-25-2015, 08:27 PM   #13909
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You can just swap in the arms. I have yet to encounter conditions that have required me to swap to my rear motor arms but I'm only running 17.5. Generally, I'm looking for a bit of steering with mine.
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Old 05-26-2015, 05:16 AM   #13910
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Can anyone help please. Sitting at the track in lovely sun shine in the UK. Which makes a change
My ball cups are getting stiff and not moving freely, used motor spray and hasn't really worked. Anyone help with a way to stop this happening, I have a team car
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Old 05-26-2015, 05:37 AM   #13911
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Originally Posted by tiny tom View Post
Can anyone help please. Sitting at the track in lovely sun shine in the UK. Which makes a change
My ball cups are getting stiff and not moving freely, used motor spray and hasn't really worked. Anyone help with a way to stop this happening, I have a team car
Read through the first post in the thread when you have a chance. There's info on the rod ends and other stuff that is useful. In the mean time, grab a set of pliers and squeeze across the rod end until the circular opening where you snap the ball stud in just starts to oval. It should free up the rod end. You will probably have to do it to all of the rod ends and might have to do it multiple times. Mine have tightened back up after doing it the first time. If my description sucks, PM me.
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:55 AM   #13912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
Read through the first post in the thread when you have a chance. There's info on the rod ends and other stuff that is useful. In the mean time, grab a set of pliers and squeeze across the rod end until the circular opening where you snap the ball stud in just starts to oval. It should free up the rod end. You will probably have to do it to all of the rod ends and might have to do it multiple times. Mine have tightened back up after doing it the first time. If my description sucks, PM me.
^^ That works like a champ! Videos of how to do this on page 1 make it look pretty dang simple, but works great.
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Old 05-26-2015, 07:10 AM   #13913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbone17 View Post
I have read that putting the rear motor rear arms on will make the wheelbase shorter, put more weight on the rear wheels and help handling on low to medium traction tracks.

Considering trying it but don't know if I can just throw the arms on or do I need to replace other parts with it( like how the front tower needs to be changed with the front arms)

Tbone, just to be clear, when you use the rear motor arms you flip flop left and right. After laying the smack down here with stock arms for a year I am about to switch to the rear motor arms myself.
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Old 05-26-2015, 08:39 AM   #13914
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Cheers for the reply. Will look online first page, sorry for asking a stupid question
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Old 05-26-2015, 11:57 AM   #13915
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http://www.shapeways.com/product/3RS...946517&li=cart

Anyone tried that yet? Thinking of trying that for $30 over the redworks $130 one.
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Old 05-26-2015, 02:06 PM   #13916
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Tbone, just to be clear, when you use the rear motor arms you flip flop left and right. After laying the smack down here with stock arms for a year I am about to switch to the rear motor arms myself.
Thanks I didn't know that. So the rear hubs stay where they are but the arms swap sides? Seems strange but if it works I'll try it.
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:25 PM   #13917
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
http://www.shapeways.com/product/3RS...946517&li=cart

Anyone tried that yet? Thinking of trying that for $30 over the redworks $130 one.
It seems to be more than 30 bux. There are a few other parts related to the change they sell. But yea it's still cheaper than 130.
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:46 PM   #13918
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I see the left and right gear case, what else is needed?
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:53 PM   #13919
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I see the left and right gear case, what else is needed?
see below:

Quote:
About this Product
For high grip tracks. Lowers the spur gear/slipper/topshaft/idlers to the floor. Moves the motor forward. Great for astro/carpet/high bite clay. No more grip rolls. Chassis cradle must be cut on the rear side, see pictures. Original chassis is used, no modifications needed. Factory Lite chassis can also be used. The chassis brace also serves as a 30mm fan mount. A straight brace can also be used. The motor plate comes from the Yokomo Yz-2. You can get it here: http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/yokomo-...z2-304/p417694 Jconcepts Finnisher body is needed. No spur gear cover needed. Everything is covered under the body. Shorty battery can be secured by battery stops (3x M3x8 screws and 3x M3 nuts are needed) It is a BETA version. We are still testing it, but it has been race tested and has proved to be very strong (and very fast too!!) Parts needed at shapeways are: 1.Gearbox Left 2.Gearbox Right 3.Battery Strap 4.Fan Strap or straight strap Other parts: 1. YZ-2 motor plate 2. Jconcepts Finnisher B5M body
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:19 PM   #13920
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Kishima rear bodies are in stock.
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