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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 05-13-2015, 07:46 AM   #13726
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J & A are 23 tooth. J fits my spektrum 6040 servo but A does not. Anyone know why? Thinking inner diameter of horn must be different.
Why does it matter...J is for JR/Spektrum servos, which you have. A is for Airtronics. The J fits the servo you have (as it should), A does not (as it should). Measure the inner diameter and see for yourself.
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Old 05-13-2015, 08:46 AM   #13727
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I am wanting to play around with boosting my 17.5 in my B5m. I have a few ideas about how to go about it. Just wanted to see if anyone has done it and what your process was. I plan to run mod and 17.5 buggy, with minimal car changes. that is the goal. disabling boost, changing motor timing and a pinion is easy enough. I dont always feel like swapping motors on race day. so, here are my thoughts. I normally run 42deg timing, and i will drop it back to 30 deg, add 20 boost and 10 deg turbo. As I a mainly want the extra power on the straight to not get run over. Of course I will monitor temps. I am thinking i can leave my gearing at 69/30 for now. Based on my boosting tests in the past, I believe this is a reasonable starting point. thoughts?
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Old 05-13-2015, 09:49 AM   #13728
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I am wanting to play around with boosting my 17.5 in my B5m. I have a few ideas about how to go about it. Just wanted to see if anyone has done it and what your process was. I plan to run mod and 17.5 buggy, with minimal car changes. that is the goal. disabling boost, changing motor timing and a pinion is easy enough. I dont always feel like swapping motors on race day. so, here are my thoughts. I normally run 42deg timing, and i will drop it back to 30 deg, add 20 boost and 10 deg turbo. As I a mainly want the extra power on the straight to not get run over. Of course I will monitor temps. I am thinking i can leave my gearing at 69/30 for now. Based on my boosting tests in the past, I believe this is a reasonable starting point. thoughts?


You won't go any faster than without boost, and it'll be a handful to drive when boost does hit. Then when the turbo hits it'll be even worse.The motor and the ESC will run hotter, and you'll wonder why you even bothered when you look at your lap times as they either don't change, or get worse.

To run modified, you need to commit and run a modified motor. They're more linear for power delivery, smoother, and over all much faster. This doesn't mean you'll go any faster, however it'll be much more predictable and easier to drive. I wasn't sure how light your car was, or if you've done all the wanted/needed 17.5 mods, but if you have, it will not be a fun car with big horsepower in it. A 13.5 would suite you nicely, and much better than a boosted 17.5.
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Old 05-13-2015, 10:16 AM   #13729
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You won't go any faster than without boost, and it'll be a handful to drive when boost does hit. Then when the turbo hits it'll be even worse.The motor and the ESC will run hotter, and you'll wonder why you even bothered when you look at your lap times as they either don't change, or get worse.

To run modified, you need to commit and run a modified motor. They're more linear for power delivery, smoother, and over all much faster. This doesn't mean you'll go any faster, however it'll be much more predictable and easier to drive. I wasn't sure how light your car was, or if you've done all the wanted/needed 17.5 mods, but if you have, it will not be a fun car with big horsepower in it. A 13.5 would suite you nicely, and much better than a boosted 17.5.
umm, actually you can get more "speed" with boost. When I boost 13.5, I normally only do turbo for straightaway speed, as the speed in the infield is not needed. And you are correct on the "feel", that is the main reason I normally only do light turbo. not very noticeable in the straight. boost does kinda feel like crap in the infield. I might rethink that. In the past I have been able to use boost and turbo to lower motor temps and gain more straight away speeds. It takes a little trial and error. If it was no benefit at all, then would ban it, lol. From my experience, it can be good or it can be crap, depending on how you implement it. The only reason I run 17.5 these day adhoc, is if Jesse comes up and wants to run 17.5. Otherwise I care less about 17.5
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Old 05-13-2015, 10:19 AM   #13730
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Not sure if this has been posted yet, but look familiar????

$7

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Old 05-13-2015, 10:21 AM   #13731
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dang, 7 bucks for a shock body. man yok stuff is cheap. No idea if it is the same coating.
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Old 05-13-2015, 10:25 AM   #13732
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You won't go any faster than without boost, and it'll be a handful to drive when boost does hit. Then when the turbo hits it'll be even worse.The motor and the ESC will run hotter, and you'll wonder why you even bothered when you look at your lap times as they either don't change, or get worse.

To run modified, you need to commit and run a modified motor. They're more linear for power delivery, smoother, and over all much faster. This doesn't mean you'll go any faster, however it'll be much more predictable and easier to drive. I wasn't sure how light your car was, or if you've done all the wanted/needed 17.5 mods, but if you have, it will not be a fun car with big horsepower in it. A 13.5 would suite you nicely, and much better than a boosted 17.5.
It is possible to have smooth, linear power delivery while running timing, but it takes a lot of work and knowledge on what adjustment to make. Gearing, motor timing, esc timing, start and end rpm all have effects on how and where power is made. I ran a Novak Sentry data logger so I could look at rpm and make adjustments based on what I saw/felt. When setup correctly the ESC makes a little more heat, but not so much that it was a concern. Ultimately the timing increased the top speed, but there is no way to make a 17.5 have the out of the hole rip of a mod motor.
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Old 05-13-2015, 10:40 AM   #13733
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oh, lol. I dont plan to out rip a mod motor.
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Old 05-13-2015, 11:08 AM   #13734
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Not sure if this has been posted yet, but look familiar????

$7

That is not the same coating. The coating is applied in Japan, and the price reflects it. I've had a set of KYB forks done, and it's not cheap.
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Old 05-13-2015, 11:20 AM   #13735
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I am wanting to play around with boosting my 17.5 in my B5m. I have a few ideas about how to go about it. Just wanted to see if anyone has done it and what your process was. I plan to run mod and 17.5 buggy, with minimal car changes. that is the goal. disabling boost, changing motor timing and a pinion is easy enough. I dont always feel like swapping motors on race day. so, here are my thoughts. I normally run 42deg timing, and i will drop it back to 30 deg, add 20 boost and 10 deg turbo. As I a mainly want the extra power on the straight to not get run over. Of course I will monitor temps. I am thinking i can leave my gearing at 69/30 for now. Based on my boosting tests in the past, I believe this is a reasonable starting point. thoughts?
I just use the same stock car for both.....I find that only the really fast guys actually go faster with a mod motor. On average they are less than .2 a lap faster and that's not consistent.
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Old 05-13-2015, 11:48 AM   #13736
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And it never ends....

When is the Ohlins shocks coming out?

TiN coated shafts could be useful.
Well since AE is branding them as Fox, I figure TLRTR will have King branded stuff before long...
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Old 05-13-2015, 11:52 AM   #13737
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Why does it matter...J is for JR/Spektrum servos, which you have. A is for Airtronics. The J fits the servo you have (as it should), A does not (as it should). Measure the inner diameter and see for yourself.
Matters because I have a crap load of A's that I get with the associated servo kit. Thought it would be nice to use if possible but appears no go. Hope I did not cause you too much hassle to respond. Thought it was inner diameter related but wanted confirmation. Hopefully, some others will get some use out of this thread.
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Old 05-13-2015, 01:52 PM   #13738
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Am I the only one thinking chrome will last longer than TiN shock shaft coating? At least the coatings I have seen from AE in the past...
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Old 05-13-2015, 02:14 PM   #13739
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Am I the only one thinking chrome will last longer than TiN shock shaft coating? At least the coatings I have seen from AE in the past...
Jake, another AZ guy and I argue over this constantly..He tells me the chrome shafts show wear after two nights of racing, and strictly runs the TiN shafts.

I know in MX, the TiN is a lot smoother and more scratch resistant than the chrome.

I run the chrome AE shafts, but will switch to the new gold shafts when they get here Friday.
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Old 05-13-2015, 02:20 PM   #13740
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I just use the same stock car for both.....I find that only the really fast guys actually go faster with a mod motor. On average they are less than .2 a lap faster and that's not consistent.
that is what I did last week. I think I will just add turbo for the straight and go from there. I have the power I need for the infield. no really need for boost. my current temps are like 125, so some turbo should be fine when I run mod
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