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Old 05-11-2015, 07:18 AM   #13666
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It's all about the tires...
Tried a number of different tires any suggestions
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Old 05-11-2015, 07:25 AM   #13667
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Tried a number of different tires any suggestions
Talk to your fast guys at your track.

Find out what they are they doing to prep tires. Are they sanding them down or putting an edge on them, any tire sauce or oil being used? Are they trimming their foam in any way? So on and so on.
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Old 05-11-2015, 07:46 AM   #13668
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Can't seem to get any rear bite car no matter what seems loose in the corners and on the straight running on packed clay but likes to get dusty and slick instantly
What setup?

Give us an idea of what you're using setup wise - and what tires you're using. What slipper? what motor?
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Old 05-11-2015, 07:53 AM   #13669
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Can't seem to get any rear bite car no matter what seems loose in the corners and on the straight running on packed clay but likes to get dusty and slick instantly
I usually don't like giving "blind" recommendations unless I have your car in my hand or you've given me every detail about setup.

However - things to try:

B5 rear motor rear arms - rear hubs pushed all the way forward, Brass C block. These three things can give me HUGE rear traction outdoors. The Brass C block makes me push off the track is gives so much rear bite.

What battery are you running? What class? What transmission? Is the slipper set? What tires are the "Fast" guys using, and what are you using? What foams?
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Old 05-11-2015, 10:27 AM   #13670
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Thanks guys can't tell a lot of setup right now deployed at moment be home in 2 months just trying to get solutions to try when u get back running D3.5 7.5 stock tranny avid slipper 5600 mah 60c saddle pack x rings grey springs can't remember piston center shock positions on all can't recall bulk head or rear mount
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Old 05-11-2015, 11:08 AM   #13671
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for Scott class is anybody running a slipper eliminator?
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Old 05-11-2015, 11:15 AM   #13672
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for Scott class is anybody running a slipper eliminator?
I do. What do you want to know?
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Old 05-11-2015, 11:43 AM   #13673
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Thanks guys can't tell a lot of setup right now deployed at moment be home in 2 months just trying to get solutions to try when u get back running D3.5 7.5 stock tranny avid slipper 5600 mah 60c saddle pack x rings grey springs can't remember piston center shock positions on all can't recall bulk head or rear mount
Thank you for your service.

A 7.5 is a LOT of motor for someone new to this, especially for an outdoor track. Let's start there, and cut back to either a 13.5 or 17.5 (No Boost) until you learn a little more RC based trigger discipline.
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:02 PM   #13674
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I ran into an issue this past weekend, and I thought I would share. My daughters car kept breaking or popping shock eclips while racing. I just kept blindly replacing them. This weekend, it happened again. Upon inspection, the piston seemed a bit loose on the shaft. So I pulled out a new "kit" piston and checked the fitting and it was much more snug. In fact, the older pistons were literally flopping around. It appears that over time the hole had worn and the piston became sloppy, thus started to torque on the eclips. This caused them to either pop off or break the clips. Also, once this happenes, the shaft may not move up and down correctly, causing additional wear on your hat bushings. Make sure your pistons are snug on the shaft and the shock bushings are good, or you could end up causing yourself much more issues.


Also, there was a guy that did a bunch of shock testing and analysis. He discovered that the biggest impact to shock piston performance was loose and flexing pistons. The kit pistons are not very snug, so I plan to run machined when ever possible.
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:17 PM   #13675
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I ran into an issue this past weekend, and I thought I would share. My daughters car kept breaking or popping shock eclips while racing. I just kept blindly replacing them. This weekend, it happened again. Upon inspection, the piston seemed a bit loose on the shaft. So I pulled out a new "kit" piston and checked the fitting and it was much more snug. In fact, the older pistons were literally flopping around. It appears that over time the hole had worn and the piston became sloppy, thus started to torque on the eclips. This caused them to either pop off or break the clips. Also, once this happenes, the shaft may not move up and down correctly, causing additional wear on your hat bushings. Make sure your pistons are snug on the shaft and the shock bushings are good, or you could end up causing yourself much more issues.


Also, there was a guy that did a bunch of shock testing and analysis. He discovered that the biggest impact to shock piston performance was loose and flexing pistons. The kit pistons are not very snug, so I plan to run machined when ever possible.
i noticed some lash on my rear shocks last weekend (not sure if that's the right word. at the start of the up stroke on the bench i could feel sort of like a delay, hard to explain). took them apart and there was up and down play with the piston on the shaft. i put some kyosho 0.2mm shims on top of the bottom e-clip and it's gone now.

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/kyosho-...kyo96641/p3868
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:20 PM   #13676
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Can't seem to get any rear bite car no matter what seems loose in the corners and on the straight running on packed clay but likes to get dusty and slick instantly

Many things can contribute to this.
Whats your shock set-up front and rear?
Do you have flat front arms up front with the RM front shock tower?
Do you have too aggressive front tires?
RM rear arms?
Battery location?
Running ideal rear tires?

It could be a combination of those even?
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Old 05-11-2015, 02:26 PM   #13677
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i noticed some lash on my rear shocks last weekend (not sure if that's the right word. at the start of the up stroke on the bench i could feel sort of like a delay, hard to explain). took them apart and there was up and down play with the piston on the shaft. i put some kyosho 0.2mm shims on top of the bottom e-clip and it's gone now.

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/kyosho-...kyo96641/p3868
I did exactly the same thing building my new shocks last week. My driving abilities likely would never notice the difference, but there was definitely slop in the piston that warranted some fine shims to tighten things up (Tamiya shims in my case).
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Old 05-11-2015, 02:33 PM   #13678
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Can't seem to get any rear bite car no matter what seems loose in the corners and on the straight running on packed clay but likes to get dusty and slick instantly
Check your shock fluids had the same issue with my B5 rear and once I changed fluids my rear traction came back.
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Old 05-11-2015, 02:50 PM   #13679
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I ran into an issue this past weekend, and I thought I would share. My daughters car kept breaking or popping shock eclips while racing. I just kept blindly replacing them. This weekend, it happened again. Upon inspection, the piston seemed a bit loose on the shaft. So I pulled out a new "kit" piston and checked the fitting and it was much more snug. In fact, the older pistons were literally flopping around. It appears that over time the hole had worn and the piston became sloppy, thus started to torque on the eclips. This caused them to either pop off or break the clips. Also, once this happenes, the shaft may not move up and down correctly, causing additional wear on your hat bushings. Make sure your pistons are snug on the shaft and the shock bushings are good, or you could end up causing yourself much more issues.


Also, there was a guy that did a bunch of shock testing and analysis. He discovered that the biggest impact to shock piston performance was loose and flexing pistons. The kit pistons are not very snug, so I plan to run machined when ever possible.
I battled this for a while. Fairly the same thing. I reused my machined pistons from my b4. They were super wore. Started blowing shocks left and right. Replaced pistons with new machined ones to eliminate piston "wobble" on the shaft. Used some cheap Durango shims to help snug up the vertical slop. Also [email protected] suggested some traxxas eclips that were much stronger. Finally, I noticed the slot in the shaft that the eclip rides in was a little marred (from busting eclips off) so I just replaced them both (love those cheap non-coated shafts @~$5).

TLDR: I'm back to over jumping stuff and flat landing jumps like a champ.
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Old 05-11-2015, 03:03 PM   #13680
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I battled this for a while. Fairly the same thing. I reused my machined pistons from my b4. They were super wore. Started blowing shocks left and right. Replaced pistons with new machined ones to eliminate piston "wobble" on the shaft. Used some cheap Durango shims to help snug up the vertical slop. Also [email protected] suggested some traxxas eclips that were much stronger. Finally, I noticed the slot in the shaft that the eclip rides in was a little marred (from busting eclips off) so I just replaced them both (love those cheap non-coated shafts @~$5).

TLDR: I'm back to over jumping stuff and flat landing jumps like a champ.
At cactus, I had some new machined pistons that were snug. Lost an eclip, probably because of the cheap ones. Like a idiot, I finished my qualifier, knowing that something was wrong with the car. When, I got to the pits the new machines piston was DONE, DONE DONE. It had so much play it would deflect 45 deg. So, if you decide to finish the heat with an eclip off, be prepared to toss your pistons in the trash. Maybe the hat bushings also. PM me that shims you used to "snug" it up more. I would assume they need to be really thing. Also, tlr machined pistons are some of the tightest on the shaft. Mine literally, snapped into place. I would like to see shock shafts with a nut on them like the d413. eclips are so 1980s, lol
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