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Old 05-04-2015, 12:55 PM   #13531
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I run caged thrust on mine without issue, not necessary to use just theirs.
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Old 05-04-2015, 01:57 PM   #13532
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The Bandit is faster. No contest. However, the Bandit is not ROAR legal. If you club race and there are no specific rules the Bandit is the way to go. Its faster than a Big Blue and half the price. If you need to be ROAR legal the 1s D4 is a great choice. I have even had great luck with the regular Maxilla version of the D4.
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Old 05-04-2015, 02:32 PM   #13533
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Something that bugs me is the camber links length on the B5m from the manual...

If I respect the book's length build (ie 27.5mm steering turnbuckles, 23.85mm front camber turnbuckles and 23.5mm rear camber turnbuckles) I get something quite far from the kit sheet setup which is at 1 negative for both rear and front camber. I actually get about 2 for both front and 4 both rear on my setup board.

Which one should I go with ? Better off trusting the length or the setup tool and the sheet?

Thanks
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Old 05-04-2015, 02:46 PM   #13534
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Originally Posted by shannow View Post
Something that bugs me is the camber links length on the B5m from the manual...

If I respect the book's length build (ie 27.5mm steering turnbuckles, 23.85mm front camber turnbuckles and 23.5mm rear camber turnbuckles) I get something quite far from the kit sheet setup which is at 1 negative for both rear and front camber. I actually get about 2 for both front and 4 both rear on my setup board.

Which one should I go with ? Better off trusting the length or the setup tool and the sheet?

Thanks
I thought the lengths in the manual were just supposed to get you in the ballpark. Regardless, I would go with the actual measured camber and toe on each end.
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Old 05-04-2015, 02:53 PM   #13535
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I thought the lengths in the manual were just supposed to get you in the ballpark. Regardless, I would go with the actual measured camber and toe on each end.
Thanks, so 1 camber measured everywhere is a good place to start ?
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Old 05-04-2015, 03:22 PM   #13536
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Thanks, so 1 camber measured everywhere is a good place to start ?
Sorry if I wasn't clear. I meant don't worry about whether or not you end up with the length of turnbuckle called for in the manual, once the links are on the car. Use the kit length to get yourself in the ballpark, then measure your actual camber/toe and adjust as needed to match whatever setup sheet you are following.

The main thing with the initial turnbuckle building is to get both steering links as close as possible to the same length. So try to match whatever distance between the links the manual calls for as closely as possible on both sides before installing the links on the car. That will get you as close as possible to centered and you should be able to adjust both steering links by the same amount every time to end up with the desired front toe.

Hopefully that helps and doesn't just add confusion.
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Old 05-04-2015, 03:32 PM   #13537
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Thank you you were quite clear.

I'm looking for the base figure (the angle itself) to set the cambers for most purposes. From the kit base sheet setup I should aim for 1 raer and 1 front. Is it good for most tracks ? Toe out will be 1 out as it is the one I'm used to and everybody uses.
Up until now I was using 1 camber everywhere but the turnbuckles standard length in the manual gave me doubts as I was far from this with everything at 1 camber set (and of course with the same camber link positions).
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Old 05-04-2015, 03:49 PM   #13538
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Thank you you were quite clear.

I'm looking for the base figure (the angle itself) to set the cambers for most purposes. From the kit base sheet setup I should aim for 1 raer and 1 front. Is it good for most tracks ? Toe out will be 1 out as it is the one I'm used to and everybody uses.
Up until now I was using 1 camber everywhere but the turnbuckles standard length in the manual gave me doubts as I was far from this with everything at 1 camber set (and of course with the same camber link positions).
I think "normal" camber settings run from about -1 degree to maybe -2.5 degrees. Which is best for you will depend on your track conditions.

Lots of people run whatever is shown on the setup sheet included in the manual. I like to find a sheet on either Petitrc or the AE site that matches my track conditions and use that as my baseline. There are links to both in the first post of this thread.

-Chris
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Old 05-04-2015, 05:06 PM   #13539
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I understand AE released new ball cups to replace the ones that bind up. Anyone know how or where to get these?
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Old 05-04-2015, 05:47 PM   #13540
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Ok folks I'm back!
Been away 3 years (ick) Starting all over.
Earlier in the week I bought a used 2 month old B5M FT. The kid bought the kit, built it and ran 2 packs through it and decided it was not fun? Go figure??
Anyway I picked it up and am getting ready to try it out at Mhor.

It was put together wrong, lots of loose screws, front shocks were on the back and back on the front, Shock top O-rings were burst out of the collars from improper shock build, just a mess overall. But looks new!!

She came RTR with a Trackstar 3520Kv combo and Turnigy electrics.

Now that she's put back together properly I go and blow the spur gear trying to adjust the slipper clutch! Sure's not an old B4 slipper!
This one will not slip unless you almost have the adjusting nut off the shaft! I took it all apart and checked against the manual just to make sure everything is there and where it should be, and it is.

So my question after a 3 year nap, what do I need to do to set the slipper clutch on this beast??? My old B4 was easy this things another story!
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Old 05-04-2015, 06:42 PM   #13541
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Originally Posted by Tc3junky View Post
Ok folks I'm back!
Been away 3 years (ick) Starting all over.
Earlier in the week I bought a used 2 month old B5M FT. The kid bought the kit, built it and ran 2 packs through it and decided it was not fun? Go figure??
Anyway I picked it up and am getting ready to try it out at Mhor.

It was put together wrong, lots of loose screws, front shocks were on the back and back on the front, Shock top O-rings were burst out of the collars from improper shock build, just a mess overall. But looks new!!

She came RTR with a Trackstar 3520Kv combo and Turnigy electrics.

Now that she's put back together properly I go and blow the spur gear trying to adjust the slipper clutch! Sure's not an old B4 slipper!
This one will not slip unless you almost have the adjusting nut off the shaft! I took it all apart and checked against the manual just to make sure everything is there and where it should be, and it is.

So my question after a 3 year nap, what do I need to do to set the slipper clutch on this beast??? My old B4 was easy this things another story!
My rule of thumb is if it ain't locked, you ain't doing it right.

No but general rule of thumb is to hold the two rear wheels and give it gas. Front wheels should come up a good couple of inches.
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Old 05-04-2015, 06:47 PM   #13542
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Need some help I am running on carpet and I don't have any on power steering does anybody have any ideas what do I do
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Old 05-04-2015, 06:59 PM   #13543
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What is your setup? We need ALL the details. If you are running on carpet and you have your waterfall removed, put it back in. There are a ton of other things you can try but we need to know where you are at now.
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Old 05-04-2015, 07:05 PM   #13544
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The wheel- hop slipper adjustment method worked great on my b4.2 but are you guys sure the wheels should come up just as high with a mid- motor car? I had my wheels come up around 1 inch (eyeballed height) but have yet to see how it goes on a track that bites enough to engage the slipper.
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Old 05-04-2015, 07:31 PM   #13545
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What is your setup? We need ALL the details. If you are running on carpet and you have your waterfall removed, put it back in. There are a ton of other things you can try but we need to know where you are at now.
Well I have 2.5 toe in the rear
40 oil in the shocks front and rear running in the middle hole
Grey springs all around
Mostly that is it what else can I say if you have any tricks or things I can do to shocks or anything would be great thanks
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