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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 04-29-2015, 12:41 PM   #13396
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I've been looking, for 17.5 blinky, what is the Optimum FDR I should be shooting for? I'm running a novak balistic 17.5 with 35 degrees on end bell. currently 69t spur, and 31t pinion. which is FDR of 5.78. After a 5 mnute race, I came off at 89 degrees, so I have room to go.
You really shouldn't be gearing for heat but rather lap times. I can't remember the last time I won an a-mail because my motor temp was lower/hotter than anyone else.

Knowing that you come off at 89 degrees after your run is nice because you didn't burn up the motor. Now you can try going up or down and checking your lap times then check your temperature. Eventually you will end up finding out that you went to far up or down when your lap times no longer drop.
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Old 04-29-2015, 12:54 PM   #13397
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You really shouldn't be gearing for heat but rather lap times. I can't remember the last time I won an a-mail because my motor temp was lower/hotter than anyone else.

Knowing that you come off at 89 degrees after your run is nice because you didn't burn up the motor. Now you can try going up or down and checking your lap times then check your temperature. Eventually you will end up finding out that you went to far up or down when your lap times no longer drop.
yeah, I gear for "feel" and check temps to make sure I dont fry a motor. Some layouts need more grunt, other are more flowing and high speed. gearing is a process, not an exact science.
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Old 04-29-2015, 01:49 PM   #13398
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FDR is a round about #. Motors behave differently and not all the manufacturers make them them same. You need to gear for max efficiency. An electric motor will usually make the most power when its running at peak efficiency. Gearing, timing, and temp all need to be considered together.....but you don't necessarily need to add timing or gear taller if your temps are low. Temp is secondary unless your running too hot.
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Old 04-29-2015, 02:02 PM   #13399
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Why do x-rings need to soak in oil before installing?

Do you use green slime on x-rings?
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Old 04-29-2015, 02:24 PM   #13400
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Why do x-rings need to soak in oil before installing?

Do you use green slime on x-rings?

I don't do either. All I do is put a few drops of oil in the shock before I actually install the shaft & piston. I do that to make sure the threaded part of the shock shaft doesn't somehow rip/tear the seals. The AE X Rings look identical to the Kyoshos. Anyway, I have literally never had a pair of either wear out, or leak, and I guess I'm not breaking them in properly. Imagine how good they'd be if I prepped them right!
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:08 PM   #13401
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You shouldn't have to do that. Something is wrong. Did you maybe add too many or the wrong spacers in the cartridge? Do you maybe have one or both of the hat bushings in the wrong way. There should be a little bit of friction but not very much and you should be able to tighten the retaining cap all the way.
Ill rebuild the shock to be sure. Hopefully its builder error.
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Old 04-29-2015, 10:16 PM   #13402
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I am going to set my pride aside and ask a majorly dumb question here.. I am in the middle of building my new Lite and am installing the rear A-arms. I am building it per the pictures in the manual, but the L control arm is on the right and vice versa for the right side. They look almost un-naturally forward swept which may be by design. I think I am just being thrown off by them appearing reversed. I put on my dunce cap and looked at photos from AE and they seem pretty swept forward there too.

Is L the new R and I am just out of touch with what is trendy?

Thanks for any replies!
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Old 04-29-2015, 10:26 PM   #13403
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I am going to set my pride aside and ask a majorly dumb question here.. I am in the middle of building my new Lite and am installing the rear A-arms. I am building it per the pictures in the manual, but the L control arm is on the right and vice versa for the right side. They look almost un-naturally forward swept which may be by design. I think I am just being thrown off by them appearing reversed. I put on my dunce cap and looked at photos from AE and they seem pretty swept forward there too.

Is L the new R and I am just out of touch with what is trendy?

Thanks for any replies!
They are labeled. L goes on L, R goes on R... and yep, they do sweep forward.
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Old 04-29-2015, 10:30 PM   #13404
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They are labeled. L goes on L, R goes on R... and yep, they do sweep forward.
Thanks for the reply. If I mount them with left on left, the shock mount holes end up on the front.
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Old 04-29-2015, 10:39 PM   #13405
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Mike, I encountered the same issue. I just put them on how the diagrams had them, sweeping forward with the shock holes in the rear. L arm was on the right, having the rear of the vihicle facing me. After I trued up the turnbuckles everything seemed okay and the arms moved with just a little resistance.
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Old 04-29-2015, 10:47 PM   #13406
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Unless they relabeled them L goes on the right and R goes on the left. These were originally the rear motor arms that everyone started running on the mid because they were swept forward an additional 2mm which gave a little more rearward weight bias. You switched sides when using the rear arms on the mid car

Last edited by xyzracer; 04-29-2015 at 10:48 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 04-29-2015, 11:00 PM   #13407
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Are you saying the light B5m car comes with the B5 REAR motor rear arms? If that is the case.. (why in the world though?) then yes, they are run on the reverse side.
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Old 04-29-2015, 11:12 PM   #13408
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Yes I just double checked the part numbers in the manuals and the lite comes with rear motor arms so yes they should be switched.
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Old 04-29-2015, 11:25 PM   #13409
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Thanks for the responses guys. This confirms I am only partially nuts.
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Old 04-29-2015, 11:37 PM   #13410
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Default Shock issue resolved

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I am a little disappointed with the shocks. If ibtighten down the retaining cap that houses the 2 Orings an plastic spacers i get a very difficult to move shock shaft. I have to loosen it up a few turns to allow the shock shaft to move free.

Just dont want to keep worrying about adjusting that cap after every race to make sure its not too loose or to tight.
It wad builder error. I unscrewed the lower cap and resat the orings and plastic spacers and it went together perfect. No more shock issues.
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