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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 04-25-2015, 06:34 AM   #13291
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WtpQ53p4_pY

Kinda hard to see but I'm the dark blue buggy
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Old 04-25-2015, 06:57 AM   #13292
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This car is so easy to drive fast
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Old 04-25-2015, 07:07 AM   #13293
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Any idea if the b5m factory lite is suitable for loose bumpy tracks?

I've driven my friend's b5m on the same track and it handles very well in stock settings. I really like the hopped up parts of the factory lite, but just wondering if it will handle similarly or better than the b5m on such a track.
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Old 04-25-2015, 07:15 AM   #13294
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Originally Posted by Cridd View Post
Anybody take swap out for the lite chassis on indoor clay and have results?
Installed lite chassis with good results. Also rewired with 14 gauge vs 12 gauge. End result was 1502 grams vs 1555. Also removed plastic cross bar so electronics are better positioned in buggy. Cool trick to protect rear of chassis is to get $10 associated chassis protector material and cut out just enough to cover the last several screws that get damaged... only adds a bit of weight vs covering the entire chassis which is not needed imo.
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Old 04-25-2015, 07:57 AM   #13295
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Built my Lite today. Despite all my talk of not modifying it I went all out. I could not help myself. Ti screws, ti studs, schelle strap, exotek elimator, pucks, +4 C mount......et etc etc. Anyway, when I got to the very end I noticed that the car had so much droop that the dogbones were hanging half way out of the outdrives. I spent a good couple hours trying to figure it out. Finally I got it. It wasn't droop. Plain and simple, the +4 mount pushes the arm out 2 MM and takes the axle with it. I do not think that you can run the +4 C mount and 5mm hexes with pucks because it seems the pucks outdrives are shorter! SOB!!
So what car uses dog bones 2mm longer than the b5m?
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Old 04-25-2015, 08:30 AM   #13296
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Okay....put in a good practice session today, ran 5 packs through the car. I'm putting down the same lap times as I am in my KF2 but I'm WAY more consistent with this car. It accelerates, jumps and corners like a dream. I also noticed that it is a very forgiving car..bobbles that would land my KF2 on it's lid I was able to throttle out of pretty consistently. I feel like it's easier to drive this car as fast at the KF2...with the KF I feel like I'm driving on the edge...this car just feels extremely smooth and planted.
I couldn't agree with this post more. I raced a KF2 on indoor high bite clay and found it to be a very fast and planted car, but also very unforgiving. I'm not a great driver and I need a car that is forgiving and the KF2 wasn't working for me. It is a great car that is capable of offroad, but I'm not convinced it was intended for offroad.
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Old 04-25-2015, 09:11 AM   #13297
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
You need a different length dog bone for pucks and the +4 mount. We were doing the wider mounts months ago and discovered this. Now you have to find which dog bone will work with the pucks.

Think hard
I only have AE & Kyosho cars so my stock of comparison parts is limited....I took a Kyosho pucks diff and put it in the AE 3 gear. The Kyosho outdrives are longer/wider (bones exactly the same) and would work but the spacing is different in terms where the outdrive bearing sits on the outdrive. There's a slight chance that if I used the Kyosho outdrives on an AE diff gear that it might work. Just to qualify what I mean, an AE diff gear is probably 2 mm thicker. Anyway, I decided that it was too much work for me so I put the stock plastic C & D mounts back on for now. Since my Lite is supposed to be light I decided to abandon the +4 idea for now. I guess it works out because the aluminum c & d mounts weigh more than the plastic pieces anyway. After I get the car sorted out I'll mock up the Kyosho outdrives in a spare tranny and see what happens.
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Old 04-25-2015, 09:28 AM   #13298
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Here is my Factory Lite build so far. Just need to make the turnbuckles up and build the shocks for the chassis before electronics install. No Wheels and tires for a week or so, gotta scrape up the money.

Pretty nice build process, no missing parts, no quality issues noticed.

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Old 04-25-2015, 11:49 AM   #13299
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1500.4g
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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-20150425_132453.jpg   Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-20150425_132515.jpg   Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-20150425_132527.jpg  
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Old 04-25-2015, 11:57 AM   #13300
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
I only have AE & Kyosho cars so my stock of comparison parts is limited....I took a Kyosho pucks diff and put it in the AE 3 gear. The Kyosho outdrives are longer/wider (bones exactly the same) and would work but the spacing is different in terms where the outdrive bearing sits on the outdrive. There's a slight chance that if I used the Kyosho outdrives on an AE diff gear that it might work. Just to qualify what I mean, an AE diff gear is probably 2 mm thicker. Anyway, I decided that it was too much work for me so I put the stock plastic C & D mounts back on for now. Since my Lite is supposed to be light I decided to abandon the +4 idea for now. I guess it works out because the aluminum c & d mounts weigh more than the plastic pieces anyway. After I get the car sorted out I'll mock up the Kyosho outdrives in a spare tranny and see what happens.

MIP makes the correct bones you need for the +4 mount setup....!
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Old 04-25-2015, 12:25 PM   #13301
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
MIP makes the correct bones you need for the +4 mount setup....!
Would you by chance have the part#?
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Old 04-25-2015, 01:07 PM   #13302
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1500.4g
Is that an RSX with an aftermarket cap? Does the cap give you better performance or did you just need a replacement?
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Old 04-25-2015, 01:23 PM   #13303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabc View Post
Any idea if the b5m factory lite is suitable for loose bumpy tracks?

I've driven my friend's b5m on the same track and it handles very well in stock settings. I really like the hopped up parts of the factory lite, but just wondering if it will handle similarly or better than the b5m on such a track.
I'm sure you could set it up for almost any conditions but based on how it is set up I'd say its really meant for a higher grip track the way they sell it. In the winter when traction decreases greatly on our track, we go heavy and set the cars up soft. The Lite is light and stiff.
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Old 04-25-2015, 02:48 PM   #13304
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Why do you guys think Cavalieri chooses to run the 94671 .13 metal gear servos over the 94661 .08 titanium gear servos?
Looking at the specs of both servos, I would guess it comes down to servo speed. Maybe he doesn't like a fast servo?
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Old 04-25-2015, 04:25 PM   #13305
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How does the stock setup of the Factory Lite compared to the original B5M? Or what differences have people been noticing so far? All I changed from my stock B5M was the shock pistons, otherwise, very happy with the way it felt.
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