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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 04-24-2015, 08:59 AM   #13276
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Just finish building the Factory Lite B5M! No blue on this bad boy!
Looks like a Tekno! Nice!
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Old 04-24-2015, 09:44 AM   #13277
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Just finish building the Factory Lite B5M! No blue on this bad boy!
Nice, love the black shock parts
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Old 04-24-2015, 12:25 PM   #13278
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Hobbywing has some nice esc's for the price. If you are mainly considering Stock they have the Jusstock ESC ($50), you can also run a 13.5 with it as well. For more options down the road they have the Stock Spec V3.1 ($130) which can go down to a 5.5 I believe. I have tried tekin in the past and just didn't like the "feel" of them. Hobbywing is very smooth to drive, you really notice how an esc feels in a 2wd buggy.
How's the Justock compare to the Stock Spec V3.1 for 17.5/13.5? Does the Justock have the same 'smooth feel' that the Stock Spec V3.1 is said to have?
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Old 04-24-2015, 04:12 PM   #13279
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Built my Lite today. Despite all my talk of not modifying it I went all out. I could not help myself. Ti screws, ti studs, schelle strap, exotek elimator, pucks, +4 C mount......et etc etc. Anyway, when I got to the very end I noticed that the car had so much droop that the dogbones were hanging half way out of the outdrives. I spent a good couple hours trying to figure it out. Finally I got it. It wasn't droop. Plain and simple, the +4 mount pushes the arm out 2 MM and takes the axle with it. I do not think that you can run the +4 C mount and 5mm hexes with pucks because it seems the pucks outdrives are shorter! SOB!!
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Old 04-24-2015, 04:41 PM   #13280
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How's the Justock compare to the Stock Spec V3.1 for 17.5/13.5? Does the Justock have the same 'smooth feel' that the Stock Spec V3.1 is said to have?
Its an awesome ESC for $50 but you can't compare it to either of the 3.1s. I get beat all the time by 2 guys that use them in expert buggy w/13.5s. We sell them at the track and sell at least one a week to somebody who needs a speedo in a pinch. The thing that I can say is that I haven't seen one go bad yet.
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Old 04-24-2015, 05:53 PM   #13281
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Anyway, when I got to the very end I noticed that the car had so much droop that the dogbones were hanging half way out of the outdrives. I spent a good couple hours trying to figure it out. Finally I got it. It wasn't droop. Plain and simple, the +4 mount pushes the arm out 2 MM and takes the axle with it. I do not think that you can run the +4 C mount and 5mm hexes with pucks because it seems the pucks outdrives are shorter! SOB!!
I had this issue too, building it per the manual. I came here to ask about this, what limits the droop? My kit also came with one wrong length ball stud for the rear hub(too short) and it was also round on the inside and not a 2.0 mm allen.
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Old 04-24-2015, 07:45 PM   #13282
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The black washers insidethe shocks on the shock shafts limit droop.
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Old 04-24-2015, 08:41 PM   #13283
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I had this issue too, building it per the manual. I came here to ask about this, what limits the droop? My kit also came with one wrong length ball stud for the rear hub(too short) and it was also round on the inside and not a 2.0 mm allen.

You need a different length dog bone for pucks and the +4 mount. We were doing the wider mounts months ago and discovered this. Now you have to find which dog bone will work with the pucks.

Think hard
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Old 04-24-2015, 10:43 PM   #13284
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Not sure why Racer is but I have some issues with Tekin. Their 1/8 scale stuff is great. Their 1/10 scale stuff is just sub-par IMO.

The brakes on the Tekin just aren't as smooth as HW/Orion. Major factor for me with 1/10 2wd (not so much in my 4wd).

Also another main gripe for me; they have an issue with their firmware. Take your pinion off the motor, add some timing (not blinky) and you'll hear an arc/missing sound from your motor when held at constant throttle just off neutral. Tekin is aware of the issue (as of 3 months ago since I mentioned it to Randy) and they still don't have a fix. They say it's not an issue but I feel otherwise.
Tekin has a lot of fans at my track but my Novak motor is so much smoother than my tekin. I think tekin is a quality product but it definitly has some competition out there.
Im gonna throw a castle 3800 and mmp esc in my b5m for now but ill probably go with novak if i decide to go 17.5.
Which motors do you guys like for 17.5 buggy?
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Old 04-24-2015, 11:36 PM   #13285
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[QUOTE=pink_sleeve;13976613]Where do you get black shock parts?[/

All the aluminum parts that were blue I had a local company that anodizes change the blue to black. You may want to check your area that might have a company that will do this. It can be done in a variety of colors.
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Old 04-25-2015, 02:15 AM   #13286
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You need a different length dog bone for pucks and the +4 mount. We were doing the wider mounts months ago and discovered this. Now you have to find which dog bone will work with the pucks.

Think hard
I meant I'm building with the stock setup. I can't remember but whatever c mount it called for Orr the manual with stock dogbones. I think it will be ok once I get the droop set.
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Old 04-25-2015, 06:02 AM   #13287
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Anybody take swap out for the lite chassis on indoor clay and have results?
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Old 04-25-2015, 06:09 AM   #13288
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Sorry but a newb question.

I know the B5m is all metric but what sizes? What wrenches will I need to build and maintain the car?
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Old 04-25-2015, 06:14 AM   #13289
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Sorry but a newb question.

I know the B5m is all metric but what sizes? What wrenches will I need to build and maintain the car?
The online instruction manual at Team Associated's website lists what tools are needed.

2mm & 1.5mm
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Old 04-25-2015, 06:23 AM   #13290
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Why do you guys think Cavalieri chooses to run the 94671 .13 metal gear servos over the 94661 .08 titanium gear servos?
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