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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 08-14-2014, 10:15 AM
  #13111  
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That's a spy photo of the new Factory Team kit
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:20 AM
  #13112  
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That's more like it!
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:27 AM
  #13113  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
My pleasure....thinking back, i should have let it marinate for a bit before bursting the bubble.
That would have been more fun.

I'm sure we would have seen some good comments
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:33 AM
  #13114  
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Originally Posted by Wease
A couple things to try one at a time and in no particular order.

These two should cause more weight to transfer to the front of the car.

- More anti-squat
- less front droop and more rear droop (the greater the difference between the two, the more weight transfer to the front, but you don't want to go too far )

To create a little less rear traction, you can:

- reduce the rear toe
- move the shocks out on the tower
Thanks gonna try it out today!
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Old 08-14-2014, 11:45 AM
  #13115  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Off topic. Turnbuckle binding fix. Take a set of flat pliers, no ribs. And put slight pressure on the ball ends to slightly squash them. Br careful not to do it too much. Binding fixed. Thanks to John Raya for the fix. Also thanks to Kevin Motter or B5M tips, and Team Hot Bodies for the D413 tips. Both cars are incredible now. Whole time my problems with the B5s were the binding turnbuckles. A bit of running on OC/RC hard packed clay broke in my tires. Dialed now running Cavs setup from SDRC.
+1. A local fast kid helped me out using the same method and it fixed the binding. He polished the ball studs a bit too. Thanks dude
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Old 08-14-2014, 11:54 AM
  #13116  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Off topic. Turnbuckle binding fix. Take a set of flat pliers, no ribs. And put slight pressure on the ball ends to slightly squash them. Br careful not to do it too much. Binding fixed. Thanks to John Raya for the fix. Also thanks to Kevin Motter or B5M tips, and Team Hot Bodies for the D413 tips. Both cars are incredible now. Whole time my problems with the B5s were the binding turnbuckles. A bit of running on OC/RC hard packed clay broke in my tires. Dialed now running Cavs setup from SDRC.
Tried that on the cups. didnt work
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Old 08-14-2014, 12:02 PM
  #13117  
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Why polish a ball stud that the factory already polished ?weird

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 08-14-2014 at 12:12 PM.
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Old 08-14-2014, 12:12 PM
  #13118  
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Polishing removes a little bit of material too.
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Old 08-14-2014, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Why polish a ball stud that the factory already polished ?weird
If you didn't post it, must be a bad idea eh?
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Old 08-14-2014, 12:17 PM
  #13120  
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Originally Posted by GTSSTANG
Polishing removes a little bit of material too.
So ?

Seems silly ....

Never seen a reason for doing.

Why polish at all ?
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Old 08-14-2014, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
So ?

Seems silly ....

Never seen a reason for doing.

Why polish at all ?
because stock ball cups bind without work done to the cup or stud. Pinching the ball caps help some but they still have some bind.

some people with bound ball cups have said the EXACT same thing to me. Then when i free up their cups properly they thank me.

reaming the ball cups is the best option but polishing can help as well.
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Old 08-14-2014, 12:37 PM
  #13122  
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Originally Posted by rc23
because stock ball cups bind without work done to the cup or stud. Pinching the ball caps help some but they still have some bind.

some people with bound ball cups have said the EXACT same thing to me. Then when i free up their cups properly they thank me.

reaming the ball cups is the best option but polishing can help as well.
+1. I chucked the ball studs in a Dremel at low doped and used the polished compound sticks for polishing wheels. Made the ball cups move so freely and no slop. Removes just the right amount...
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Old 08-14-2014, 12:38 PM
  #13123  
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Originally Posted by rc23
because stock ball cups bind without work done to the cup or stud. Pinching the ball caps help some but they still have some bind.
I don't so, built a few B5's already .
None had any binding with the cups.

Seen others have this problem before though.

I just replace the offending cup.

Everytime I check the old cup it had been screwed onto the rod to far.Cup gets a dent on the inside where the rod bumped though.

Just saying....
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Old 08-14-2014, 12:41 PM
  #13124  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
My pleasure....thinking back, i should have let it marinate for a bit before bursting the bubble.
There could have been at least three pages of good solid comedy about how that's how the teammates have been doing in TCRC for months.
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Old 08-14-2014, 12:42 PM
  #13125  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
I don't so, built a few B5's already .
None had any binding with the cups.

Seen others have this problem before though.

I just replace the offending cup.

Everytime I check the old cup it had been screwed onto the rod to far.Cup gets a dent on the inside where the rod bumped though.

Just saying....
Sorry, but i cut down turnbuckles and they still bound. We may just have difference in opinion of whats bound and what isnt... and thats ok. I just might hold myself to a higher standard of wrenching.. to each their own Jus Sayin
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