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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 04-22-2024, 12:09 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 08-10-2014, 01:48 PM
  #12961  
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The RB6 probably weighs more than the B5. A little weight may help it feel more planted and easier to drive.
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Old 08-10-2014, 02:08 PM
  #12962  
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Tires...tires....Tires
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Old 08-10-2014, 04:00 PM
  #12963  
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i have the right tires. everyone in mod buggy is using green dirt webs, mid and rear buggies
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Old 08-10-2014, 05:05 PM
  #12964  
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Ran my mod car with al of the weight in it yesterday. Felt so much better then my lightened stock car, was night and day. Ordered a square pack for the stock car just so I don't have to rip it all apart to take the lightweight stuff out of it. Will test later in the week. Shotries and a lightweight setup are basically useless to me. My stock out of the box B5R right now feels the best out of the three cars. Considering how hot and humid it has been here in Southern California 90 + degrees inside at the track! should I thicken up by a half weight my shock oils?
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Old 08-10-2014, 06:01 PM
  #12965  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I keep thinking about those low mah packs. Unsure if I want to buy one and realize it wont have enough kick 7-10 minutes into a race. I would skip practice laps, but the tires seem to like some laps to come in. Really clean tires with sauce seem a little slippery when I first get on the track.
I'm getting close to 11 minutes on my pack. No problem making 10.
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Old 08-10-2014, 06:22 PM
  #12966  
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing
So I know this sounds like a stupid question, should my mod car be able to handle just like my mod car with the same power? Or will the two always feel pretty different?

My stock car is HOOKED up, I almost have that setup on my mod car but not quite yet. If I put the same setup on both cars should the drive similar even though they have such a power difference?

Thanks!
They will be about the same at the same speed. Once you open up the mod they won't feel the same anymore. This is because of the speed/force difference. More speed = more force. The car will roll, dive and depending on traction slide more(think of driving your car around a corner at 20 and same corner at 50...)
The timing will also be different because of the added speed.


Usually if you get a car set up good for mod it will feel good with a stock motor in it too, just not the other way around. Another big thing is making small adjustments and make one at a time. That way you know if what you did made it closer or further from what you wanted.
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Old 08-10-2014, 07:28 PM
  #12967  
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ok, I am sure it will "make" 10 minutes. Just unsure how much kick will be left.
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Old 08-10-2014, 07:52 PM
  #12968  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
ok, I am sure it will "make" 10 minutes. Just unsure how much kick will be left.
Kick is still pretty good with the Trakpower pack. Not sure about the protek version.
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Old 08-10-2014, 07:59 PM
  #12969  
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yeah, its 4mm. Really wish someone made a 5mm version.
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:01 PM
  #12970  
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Anyone?
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:16 PM
  #12971  
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Originally Posted by bbrace3m
Anyone?
I'd lay the shocks down more. Outside on the arms, middle on the tower. I think that will help a lot with stability. I'd go down a little (or a lot) on rear shock oil. It's hard to tell exactly what issues you're having. When someone says unstable, I sometimes think what they mean is the steering is too aggressive. I'd go stiffer on front springs and maybe try a less aggressive front tire like a bar code. This is just me though. I could be wrong.
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:55 PM
  #12972  
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Originally Posted by Tommygun1
I'd lay the shocks down more. Outside on the arms, middle on the tower. I think that will help a lot with stability. I'd go down a little (or a lot) on rear shock oil. It's hard to tell exactly what issues you're having. When someone says unstable, I sometimes think what they mean is the steering is too aggressive. I'd go stiffer on front springs and maybe try a less aggressive front tire like a bar code. This is just me though. I could be wrong.
steering is right where i need it, by unstable, i mean it doesnt feel planted. when i came off the double, it goes right into a sharp hair pin off camber. when i land the rear end bottoms out and kicks it sideways. but i cant stand the shocks up because then i loose some rear traction. i was told to use a different rear spring, but i dont know which one.
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Old 08-10-2014, 09:24 PM
  #12973  
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I read what you initially said about the shocks wrong, thought you had them stood up, not the case.
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Old 08-10-2014, 09:38 PM
  #12974  
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Originally Posted by bbrace3m
I'm unhappy with my B5. I drove a random RB6 and turned faster and more consistent laps with that, but I'm not ready give up on my B5. Everything is stock besides gullwing front arms and B5M front shock tower. I'm running 32.5 oil in all 4 shocks. 3mm trailing arm inserts. front shocks are all the way out on the arms and middle hole on the tower. rear shocks are all the way out on the arm and inside hole on tower. rear links are middle hole on hub and inside hole on the block. I have good steering. struggling with traction and over all stability of the buggy. looking for some help and answers besides "get a B5M and problem solved." I don't crap money so I want to work with what I have.
What springs and pistons are you running?

What does stability mean to you? Is the car "twitchy" or nervous like it
transfers weight to much from side to side?
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Old 08-10-2014, 09:47 PM
  #12975  
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Originally Posted by bbrace3m
I'm unhappy with my B5. I drove a random RB6 and turned faster and more consistent laps with that, but I'm not ready give up on my B5. Everything is stock besides gullwing front arms and B5M front shock tower. I'm running 32.5 oil in all 4 shocks. 3mm trailing arm inserts. front shocks are all the way out on the arms and middle hole on the tower. rear shocks are all the way out on the arm and inside hole on tower. rear links are middle hole on hub and inside hole on the block. I have good steering. struggling with traction and over all stability of the buggy. looking for some help and answers besides "get a B5M and problem solved." I don't crap money so I want to work with what I have.
move rear shock to inside on arm , that alone will make a huge improvement

Ditch the gull wings for Hard b5r flat arm
Go back to 4mm trail
Stay with B5m tower


Move front shock to inside hole on tower, use green spring

Measure and adjust shock travel to 18mm front & 26.5mm rear
( can adjust length by unscrewing or tighten shock eye)

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 08-10-2014 at 10:04 PM.
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