137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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08-02-2014, 10:02 AM
08-02-2014, 10:11 AM
New Concept Finisher handles much better.
No air dam on rear of the body is why.
No air dam on rear of the body is why.
08-02-2014, 11:09 AM
A new modification has surfaced.
Raising the rear roll center by shimming the rear arm mount 1mm.
Have to grind 1mm off bottom of shock tower as well.
Makes for more roll & less grip I believe. Free's up the rear end for improved handling.
Not sure if I what to experiment with, should be really good if you are using the shorty in the rear across the chassis though.
Raising the rear roll center by shimming the rear arm mount 1mm.
Have to grind 1mm off bottom of shock tower as well.
Makes for more roll & less grip I believe. Free's up the rear end for improved handling.
Not sure if I what to experiment with, should be really good if you are using the shorty in the rear across the chassis though.
08-02-2014, 01:02 PM
A new modification has surfaced.
Raising the rear roll center by shimming the rear arm mount 1mm.
Have to grind 1mm off bottom of shock tower as well.
Makes for more roll & less grip I believe. Free's up the rear end for improved handling.
Not sure if I what to experiment with, should be really good if you are using the shorty in the rear across the chassis though.
Raising the rear roll center by shimming the rear arm mount 1mm.
Have to grind 1mm off bottom of shock tower as well.
Makes for more roll & less grip I believe. Free's up the rear end for improved handling.
Not sure if I what to experiment with, should be really good if you are using the shorty in the rear across the chassis though.
Your a month behind.
08-02-2014, 01:57 PM
08-02-2014, 02:23 PM
So does anyone else race theirs with only the parts made for the B5M and without the stock parts all cut up besides me? Sheesh.
08-02-2014, 02:25 PM
Tech Master
08-02-2014, 02:35 PM
But it is more centralized on te chassis compared to more rear where the brass would be
08-02-2014, 02:41 PM
I was thinking of doing just the front brass mount and yeah free is good
08-02-2014, 02:41 PM
Ive been runnig this setup for two nights and won the a main lastnight with it if it helps anybody
08-02-2014, 02:43 PM
Does the v2 bb shocks internals work in the v1 bb's
08-02-2014, 05:03 PM
My brother and I made the jump to these cars. He races stock, I race stock and mod. Were at LRH today, pretty damp, but still I would say high bite. Running typos both of our cars pushed like mad, mod car so bad it slammed into the wall a few times, like I had no side bite at all. Car also seems to be very light in the front and rear. Running a standard sized shorty, all the way back, standard sized servo, as stated typos (clay compound), B5 front arms and tower (both cars), 2X1.6 pistons with 32 1/2 front, 30 rear. My setup is just not working very well at all. Any thoughts? I have all of the aluminum stuff for it, but have not put it on yet. Car felt like it was skating through the turns and not carving them like my other mid-motor cars have in the past.
08-02-2014, 05:13 PM
JP
Ck front tire
Brand new front tires lack steering until they are scuffed in.
If tires are ok
Move battery forward a little.
Ck front tire
Brand new front tires lack steering until they are scuffed in.
If tires are ok
Move battery forward a little.
08-02-2014, 05:25 PM
I think that may be what it is. How much weight do all of the aluminum pieces put on the rear end of the car as opposed to the stock pieces? I would like to get a touch more weight back there then there is without resorting to brass.
08-02-2014, 05:31 PM
Alloy mounts are stronger & offer more tuning options.
add lead ballast or use saddle packs for more weight.
Let us know how it worked out.
add lead ballast or use saddle packs for more weight.
Let us know how it worked out.