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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:50 AM   #12601
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Sure thing! Here you go. The main difference may be 3 vs. 4 gear trans?


Clearly, this isn't the end of the world, but I was hoping to get the solder tabs up top. Nothing longer wires won't solve, though!
The solder tabs are straight up and down in my 4-gear, so it is possible. Looks like you just need to play with the positioning some more.
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:52 AM   #12602
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I had a d3.5 and it was like that out of the box. I was able to get straight up with a 4 gear tranny by adjusting the ring
Yep, just rotate the ring.
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Old 03-24-2015, 10:00 AM   #12603
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Sure thing! Here you go. The main difference may be 3 vs. 4 gear trans?


Clearly, this isn't the end of the world, but I was hoping to get the solder tabs up top. Nothing longer wires won't solve, though!
Rotate the mounting plate clockwise one more rotation (when looking at the shaft).
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Old 03-24-2015, 10:46 AM   #12604
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Heat and a bad battery leads to the fade you're experiencing. Get better IR, and figure out how to lower the motor heat and you'll see this effect fade.
Thanks all for the replys. I will double check heat but it is probably around 145 if I remember correctly. Battery IR spec was very good when new but who knows now that batteries have had lots of runs on them.

Now back to my original inquire.


Need a new chassis and would like to hear the latest regarding milled chassis race results.

Thanks everyone.
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Old 03-24-2015, 10:52 AM   #12605
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Thanks all for the replys. I will double check heat but it is probably around 145 if I remember correctly. Battery IR spec was very good when new but who knows now that batteries have had lots of runs on them.

Now back to my original inquire.


Need a new chassis and would like to hear the latest regarding milled chassis race results.

Thanks everyone.
well. the inifinity TQ'd cactus but didnt podium. The cars on the podium were mainly using the SLRC chassis. The new AE chassis is not out.... Note the inifinity chassis was modified to be stiffer.
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Old 03-24-2015, 11:23 AM   #12606
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I have run the Stiky Liks SLRC chassis for the past year and its been great. The car works well on indoor clay, outdoor dirt and indoor dirt.
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Old 03-24-2015, 12:26 PM   #12607
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I'm clearly misunderstanding or miscommuncating 'cause I'm not seeing how I have any more than the three mounting positions available on this motor. Here's another pic taken apart. Am I wrong is saying there are only three options to clock the motor?


The stock location had the solder tabs toward the rear. Another location had the tabs under the motor. The third location had it up against the waterfall. All but the first option weren't feasible. What am I missing here?

Thanks!
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Old 03-24-2015, 12:31 PM   #12608
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Dude, lol. you are not trying hard enough. look. it is a combination of twisting the ring and trying the different holes for the mount.

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Old 03-24-2015, 12:40 PM   #12609
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OMG, I'm such an idiot! LOL! I needed to just rotate the motor 180* from one of the three orientations and it bolted in perfectly. I couldn't see the forest for the trees!! I also didn't notice that two of the mounting holes were 180* from one another or I would've picked up on it being symmetrical. D'oh!

Sorry the hijack, y'all. Now back to your regularly scheduled B5M discussions!

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Old 03-24-2015, 04:09 PM   #12610
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Im planning on buying the factory lite version and using the savox 1258tg servo. I like savox but would this be the best servo to use
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Old 03-24-2015, 04:23 PM   #12611
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Not a thing wrong with the 1258 in this application. I'm using a Spektrum 6040 which has specs which are pretty much identical and it works fine. A super fast, low profile servo with tons of torque would be perfect. Perfect
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Old 03-24-2015, 06:56 PM   #12612
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Not a thing wrong with the 1258 in this application. I'm using a Spektrum 6040 which has specs which are pretty much identical and it works fine. A super fast, low profile servo with tons of torque would be perfect. Perfect
I run that 160T at 7.4 volts and it works great. I just bought a used B5M for my wife to play with to see if she wants to try a novice race and I dropped a Savox 1251 in it. I had it sitting in a drawer so decided to get some use from it. Seems to be working fine but it isn't nearly as strong, fast, smooth or quiet as the Protek.
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Old 03-25-2015, 07:13 AM   #12613
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i feel like an idiot asking this question....

what spring cups are we supposed to use? the manual says the 5mm offset, but the spring cups have a 1,2,3,or 4 on them.

i assume it's the middle size??? thats whats used on the b4 IIRC.
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Old 03-25-2015, 07:19 AM   #12614
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Triple we are struggling with is very long for a 17.5 blinky buggy. Buggy can run full tilt but the triple is where it becomes questionable towards the end of the race.
Perhaps its faster to double single the whole race and still have some punch left at the end?
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Old 03-25-2015, 07:46 AM   #12615
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i feel like an idiot asking this question....

what spring cups are we supposed to use? the manual says the 5mm offset, but the spring cups have a 1,2,3,or 4 on them.

i assume it's the middle size??? thats whats used on the b4 IIRC.
Yes, the middle size. The numbers are to identify the mold number, they mean nothing to size.
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