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Old 03-24-2015, 08:47 AM
  #12586  
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Well, y'all were right! That's the way to reclock the motor mounting holes. Unfortunately, that moved the solder tabs *too* far forward and they now interfere with the waterfall. D'oh! Looks like I'll have to put it back the way it was and get some longer wire leads.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Tommy R
Just got my new Trinity D4 (1s Short Stack) in the mail and installed it last night. The mounting holes for the motor are only on the "bottom" half of the motor (not 360 degrees around). I guess this thing is geared towards touring cars. The downside for me (and my 4 gear trans) is that the wire mounts on the motor are now angled pretty significantly toward the rear of the car. Looks like I'll need longer wires....unless there's a way to "clock" the case on the motor, but I don't think that's possible.

It is possible. On the pinion side of the motor, you can turn where the motor mount holes are. Take out all three front plate mount screws and rotate the Plate. Trinity is unable to predict what car it's used in, so they leave it to the end user to choose.
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Tommy R
Maybe he's referring to just a loss of punch, as opposed to the battery merely lasting the duration of the race? I don't know either way, but just pointing out another possibility.

For the track I run at, my car is pretty good clearing a particular jump earlier in the race, but as it wears on I lose just enough punch that that same jump gets more and more risky due to the slight decrease in power. Maybe that's similar to what the OP was experiencing?

Still sounds like a battery issue to me.
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:25 AM
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Thanks! Yep, that's what I found. Unfortunately, that leaves three positions for the solder tabs and the default one turned out to be best for my application. It's not ideal, but I'll make do.
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Micah123
Triple we are struggling with is very long for a 17.5 blinky buggy. Buggy can run full tilt but the triple is where it becomes questionable towards the end of the race.
Heat and a bad battery leads to the fade you're experiencing. Get better IR, and figure out how to lower the motor heat and you'll see this effect fade.
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Socket
Still sounds like a battery issue to me.
Ultimately, yes, but I think it's reasonable to expect some degree of degradation (even if just slight) through the course of a run as voltage drops and heat builds up. Until we know the degree of degradation it's tough to say.

From what the orig. poster described, it sounds like a reasonable situation that doesn't necessarily point to any faulty equipment....just a desire to optimize everything so he can make that triple late in the race.
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Tommy R
Thanks! Yep, that's what I found. Unfortunately, that leaves three positions for the solder tabs and the default one turned out to be best for my application. It's not ideal, but I'll make do.
Post a pic. The solider tabs should be straight up like my car.
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Socket
Post a pic. The solider tabs should be straight up like my car.
Sure thing! Here you go. The main difference may be 3 vs. 4 gear trans?


Clearly, this isn't the end of the world, but I was hoping to get the solder tabs up top. Nothing longer wires won't solve, though!
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Tommy R
Sure thing! Here you go. The main difference may be 3 vs. 4 gear trans?


Clearly, this isn't the end of the world, but I was hoping to get the solder tabs up top. Nothing longer wires won't solve, though!
I had a d3.5 and it was like that out of the box. I was able to get straight up with a 4 gear tranny by adjusting the ring
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Tommy R
Sure thing! Here you go. The main difference may be 3 vs. 4 gear trans?


Clearly, this isn't the end of the world, but I was hoping to get the solder tabs up top. Nothing longer wires won't solve, though!
The solder tabs are straight up and down in my 4-gear, so it is possible. Looks like you just need to play with the positioning some more.
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I had a d3.5 and it was like that out of the box. I was able to get straight up with a 4 gear tranny by adjusting the ring
Yep, just rotate the ring.
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Old 03-24-2015, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Tommy R
Sure thing! Here you go. The main difference may be 3 vs. 4 gear trans?


Clearly, this isn't the end of the world, but I was hoping to get the solder tabs up top. Nothing longer wires won't solve, though!
Rotate the mounting plate clockwise one more rotation (when looking at the shaft).
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Old 03-24-2015, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Socket
Heat and a bad battery leads to the fade you're experiencing. Get better IR, and figure out how to lower the motor heat and you'll see this effect fade.
Thanks all for the replys. I will double check heat but it is probably around 145 if I remember correctly. Battery IR spec was very good when new but who knows now that batteries have had lots of runs on them.

Now back to my original inquire.


Need a new chassis and would like to hear the latest regarding milled chassis race results.

Thanks everyone.
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Old 03-24-2015, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Micah123
Thanks all for the replys. I will double check heat but it is probably around 145 if I remember correctly. Battery IR spec was very good when new but who knows now that batteries have had lots of runs on them.

Now back to my original inquire.


Need a new chassis and would like to hear the latest regarding milled chassis race results.

Thanks everyone.
well. the inifinity TQ'd cactus but didnt podium. The cars on the podium were mainly using the SLRC chassis. The new AE chassis is not out.... Note the inifinity chassis was modified to be stiffer.
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Old 03-24-2015, 11:23 AM
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I have run the Stiky Liks SLRC chassis for the past year and its been great. The car works well on indoor clay, outdoor dirt and indoor dirt.
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