Wild Cherry

Extra weight ???

More stability & traction for sure..

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

First day out with the b5m outdoors. The 1.7 tapered worked great. Made a few changes for low traction conditions. Went to zero caster inserts and 3mm trailing axle. Car was amazing.

Wild Cherry

Andrew

Were just using the lead , its cheap and is not expensive .

rickster

hey Andrew. you really only need the brass blocks if conditions are really loose.. like dry dusty. I like them better then just adding weight as it puts it in the very lowest and farthest back portion of the car.

hlpressley

iTrader: (209)

Ok guys I am a 2wd rookie so please forgive the ignorance here. I am an 1/8 scale guy.

Was running my B5 yesterday in practice before the race and as I was coming on the straight it lost power and I could hear something spinning. I figured my motor moved but that was not the case. Gear mesh was still perfect however the diff has no resistance at all now. It just spins completely free. I am assuming my diff blew out? I haven't had a chance to take it apart yet and may not be able to for a few days but thought I could ask here to get a head start on what the problem may be.

I was disappointed as the car was hooked up!!

Antimullet

iTrader: (65)

Check to make sure your pinion gear is tight. If the screw came loose it'll spin free.

slakr

iTrader: (36)

Broken diff screw?

gearit

I have a b5m running on a clay indoor track that has a little push going into corners and does not have the same low end punch as the other 17.5's. I was told to lighten up the tranny with an aluminum top shaft, mip puc system, nova slipper, bfast diff and b5 front a arms and shock tower. Any suggestions or advise if I'm going in the right direction or additional mods. Thanks.

mxracer458

iTrader: (47)

lol and 250 bucks later….and don't forget to charge at 40amps otherwise you won't have a chance

bh796B

I honestly would just get the lightened top shaft, and invest in a better motor. The cars so light you shouldn't have any issues with low end, maybe mess with your timing/gearing. On my car I use the b5 rear and front arms and b5 front shock tower

suby723

iTrader: (21)

My 17.5 roller has about $500 invested lmao and thats including a slrc lightened chassis. Sitting at 1505 grams and dialed. I like mod so I built another b5m.. what a cruel hobby this is sometimes!

The slrc chassis has been mentioned alot on Facebook in the b5 nation but just if you havent heard the details..
6061 aluminum, .5 thinner over stock chassis, about 24grams lighter. Dropped .3 off my fastest lap time and highly recommend this chassis if your serious about stock racing.

hlpressley

iTrader: (209)

That is what I am thinking. That seems like a very unlikely thing to break doesn't it? Diff too right maybe? I bought the car lightly used and it was very good right off so I never really adjusted much.

vito

wc this car is awesome ran it some need to get it on the track bad

hlpressley

iTrader: (209)

I think it is something in the diff. I can grab each rear hub and they just spin completely free, there is no resistance at all. Feels like it is just riding on bearings.

slakr

iTrader: (36)

It is unusual. Sometimes people do over do it with tightening it down and it breaks at the end of the threads. But the AE diff screw is one of the better ones. People usually use it on other kits in place of the weak stock unit. But definitely check it out.