Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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I throw them away. why? AVID bearing are $1 each.....why would I even take the time to disassemble, clean, oil and put back on. Not if your running ceramics, I would clean and oil. But honestly at $1 and for the amount of time the avid will last....there is not point in doing all that work.
About the Orion. Is uses a box like the HW and viper esc's. The box is pricey and I rarely make a change after initially setup, so I use an usb adapter, similar to hotwire, and hook it to my PC. I think the usb adapter was like $8 from hobbyking. I mean, I set brake to 100%, set drag to 0%, set lipo to 3.2/cell and turn punch all the way up for 17.5. once you set that up.....what do you need to change at the track? At least I dont need to. When I have a new esc and car or got a new track where I might need to change punch (low bite) I will take my laptop or borrow someone box. If you get the HW esc's that box is like $30, so not bad. The orion is like $75. I think they smoke crack at orion
About the Orion. Is uses a box like the HW and viper esc's. The box is pricey and I rarely make a change after initially setup, so I use an usb adapter, similar to hotwire, and hook it to my PC. I think the usb adapter was like $8 from hobbyking. I mean, I set brake to 100%, set drag to 0%, set lipo to 3.2/cell and turn punch all the way up for 17.5. once you set that up.....what do you need to change at the track? At least I dont need to. When I have a new esc and car or got a new track where I might need to change punch (low bite) I will take my laptop or borrow someone box. If you get the HW esc's that box is like $30, so not bad. The orion is like $75. I think they smoke crack at orion
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Tech Regular
100% brake has always locked up the brakes and spun me. low to high traction
Locks the tires, heats up the motor...
62.5% - 50% are what most people use.
With 100% brake force do you have to run your radio epa at like 10%? Im a believer that if you have to lower your radio EPA past 80% you are running the wrong settings in the speedo.
Have you tried any of the other settings?
This is whats nice about the box is you are able to try things at the track fresh off a run when its more noticeable that you will feel a difference. You arent going to tell if lowering your drag brake 2% was a good or bad change by running it on a club night, going home changing it and coming back the next club night.
Id suggest brake force 62.5% drag brake around 5... initial brake "drag brake"... see if it helps or not.
62.5% - 50% are what most people use.
With 100% brake force do you have to run your radio epa at like 10%? Im a believer that if you have to lower your radio EPA past 80% you are running the wrong settings in the speedo.
Have you tried any of the other settings?
This is whats nice about the box is you are able to try things at the track fresh off a run when its more noticeable that you will feel a difference. You arent going to tell if lowering your drag brake 2% was a good or bad change by running it on a club night, going home changing it and coming back the next club night.
Id suggest brake force 62.5% drag brake around 5... initial brake "drag brake"... see if it helps or not.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Locks the tires, heats up the motor...
62.5% - 50% are what most people use.
With 100% brake force do you have to run your radio epa at like 10%?
Have you tried any of the other settings?
This is whats nice about the box is you are able to try things at the track fresh off a run when its more noticeable that you will feel a difference. You arent going to tell if lowering your drag brake 2% was a good or bad change by running it on a club night, going home changing it and coming back the next club night.
Id suggest brake force 62.5% drag brake around 5... initial brake "drag brake"... see if it helps or not.
62.5% - 50% are what most people use.
With 100% brake force do you have to run your radio epa at like 10%?
Have you tried any of the other settings?
This is whats nice about the box is you are able to try things at the track fresh off a run when its more noticeable that you will feel a difference. You arent going to tell if lowering your drag brake 2% was a good or bad change by running it on a club night, going home changing it and coming back the next club night.
Id suggest brake force 62.5% drag brake around 5... initial brake "drag brake"... see if it helps or not.
I hear you on max brakes at your finger tips but the brake force setting is a big tool and part of the reason why the orion ESC is the best on the market... smooth brakes. I've never felt smooth brakes with the 100% Brake force setting. Perhaps you have a different driving style than me.. but i have to imagine you cant use mid corner brakes to get the rear end to come around with a 100% setting.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (22)
I have some titanium screws from overseas that look just like those. They are ok and I have removed some of them a few times, but they are no where near the quality of the Lundsfords.
If I could find a good deal on some Lundsfords, I would go that route.
If I could find a good deal on some Lundsfords, I would go that route.
Last edited by GTSSTANG; 07-25-2014 at 03:02 PM.
I dont change any settings on the ESC and just change the EPA on my remote.. I run around 68-75% brake.. Works just fine!
Tech Regular
iTrader: (22)
I am about to install the aluminum steering rack, but not 100% sure where those little spacers go. Can someone please point me in the right direction?
Tech Regular
iTrader: (22)
I just found the post where WildCat answered this. "between the bearing on the plastic rack. those a are crush tubes"
Tech Elite
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Tech Champion
iTrader: (515)
I got the rest of my crap on. I added aluminum screws in a few spots, slipper eliminator, ti axles & tie rods' the aluminum rack and something else I can't remember....I'm just under 1570 with a 4600 shortie. If I wanted to be ultra light I could swap some stuff back and probably save money and 30g at the same time. I also swapped in kyosho ogld springs. I hate to say it but the ae springs worked better.
Just finished converting my b5 over to a b5m. What are people's thoughts on the 3x1.4 TAPERED pistons vs flat in the rear?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (515)
I'm running good ol 2 hole 1.6s all around as many others do. For some reason they seem to work very well in these cars. I did notice today that the setups for the B5M and RB6M are very different. I run 3x1.4 fronts and 1.6x2 in the rear on the RB6.