GTSSTANG

iTrader: (22)

Any idea what the amp draw would be on a boosted 17.5 in a 2wd buggy?

rickster

on the esc's and motors in stock.. make sure your motor is cleaned and lubed first.. I helped a kid just do his motor who had his car spotless, and the outside of motor spotless but it was just kinda slow.. I took the motor out and cleaned it really good.. lubed the bearings and reset the timing and put it back in.. wow it was like a whole different motor.. and it wasn't even that dirty inside..

most of the newer esc's are pretty good.. I like the lrp stuff.. but orions are great.. hobbywing is great.. novak has some really nice ones too. and a bunch of others as well..

Kave

iTrader: (17)

Absolutely dependent on what your timing is of your motor. Timing changes amp draw significantly.

GTSSTANG

iTrader: (22)

Is there a ball park max amp draw with timing maxed out?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

the 20111208 or something like that from the 1.71 orion software.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

a while back I put a watt meter in my car and did a few hard laps around my track. I pulled max 62 amps. What does that mean? It means I pull 62 amps in my car with my motor on my track. It was a lower bite track so the max pull might be higher on your track. I did the same thing while doing the slipper test and it was about 75 amps. the watt meter saves the highest value. no idea on the average.

Rybeau40

Currently running on a medium bite dirt/clay track. The car needs a bit more bite so I can be a bit more aggressive. I currently run 3-1 toe/anti-squat. If I switch to 3-2 what would this do for my car? The track has many double double jumps and it tends to jump a bit nose high in two of the sections.

Coming from a TLR 22 2.0 in rm a month ago, so still learning the variations in setup for MM.

I run mod class btw.

jk racing

iTrader: (20)

I would say a holeshot/mini pin type tire.

JC - 3Ds or DDs
Proline - Holeshots
AKA - Impacts (love these tires)
Panther - Ocelot or Raptors

There are others, i am sure, these are off the top of my head.

Jcozz

iTrader: (20)

Sounds similar to my local outdoor track. I love SS impacts with proline blue insert.

Wild Cherry

Don't use 2 degree squat for extra grip !
Instead ?
Go 0 degree..

Nose high is from the rear slapping the jumps, try to roll slower & closer before popping over the jump.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

When our track is wet green holeshots are the ticket. When it's cold, not wet, I run Blue 3Ds, and Proline X2's all summer.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I had a jump on the last layout that made me go nose high, I had to apply brake as soon as i left the face to pitch the car. You wont get rear bite like the 22rm. I have a 22 rm and I cant make the thing turn because of the rear bite. You have to drive the mm different. I find if you drive it hard and try to throttle the last 1/3 of the turn, it can whip out on you. stay smooth and even on the throttle in the corner and throttle up once your straight. Like cherry said, you can try the 3-0. I run the 3-2 on high bite. also if your rear is slapping, you might want to go up 2.5 on the oils. I had similar issue when the oil was too light.

I also have a tire in my box that I put on the front when ever I want the car to calm down. and let me drive it hard.

RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

Thanks. I'm completely unfamiliar with orion stuff but the ROAR site says only 1.68 is legal for blinky.

A couple weeks ago we had a local who normally runs mod, run blinky with a R10 pro and reedy mach2 and people were saying his buggy was ballistic (I wasn't there).

He's definitely not the type to cheat so I don't think he did anything against the rules, just wondering if there's anything to the orion thing.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

roar approved the original firmware, then orion release a new and a rumored, but unproven cheater firmware.

All i know is my car was definitely faster with it. We did a few blind tests and people could feel the difference. Lol, my buddies kids didnt like it because he said it was too fast and asked his take to put the slower one on.

I heard the rumors and tried it for myself. IMO it definetly feels suspect. But people run that firmware at all of the races i have seen. I dont think they check the firmware, just if it blinks. which is does.


also, the orion brakes are unbelievably good. I call them magic. they grip hard, but are smooth and controlled. Best brakes I have ever tried. And i tried a few

Bubonic-X

iTrader: (4)

Liegh
you referring to the R10 speed control? you think that firmware is in the r10stock speed control? waiting on Reedy blackbox speed control but just might check that one out for the price