136LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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07-14-2014, 05:52 PM
I've seen a lot of talk about car weight and expense to get it lite.
So I want to post my car and want I have done, which isn't that much.
My car currently weighs 1504g.
I run a Reedy 17.5t and a 602 shorty, 212g.
I have an AE alum top shaft, light motor plate, and Ti turnbuckles.
I'm using a lot of the aluminum screw kit on the car, I have 8 Ti screws on the car. All the nuts on the car are aluminum, various AE part numbers.
All the screws on the bottom of the chassis are still steel.
I used an Avid slipper and I'm using a Spektrum S6070 and SR2000 Rx.
I am not using any hard parts or aluminum upgrade parts. Those only add weight. I also am not currently running the MIP pucks. I did have it but went back to stock parts. I prefer the way the car drives with stock parts.
The only "exotic" parts on the car is Lunsford front axles and a I think 4 Lunsford ball-studs, I had them left over from my SC10 4x4 days.
I decided to do away with the battery strap and other extra battery tray ribs. That is probably the easiest way to remove a large amount of weight for no money. I have gone between servo tape and strapping the battery in, the servo tape is just easiest and cleanest looking. I never take the battery out of the car any way. I have attached a picture of the battery and electronics layout.
I can have a setup posted if your interested but it is pretty normal.
So I want to post my car and want I have done, which isn't that much.
My car currently weighs 1504g.
I run a Reedy 17.5t and a 602 shorty, 212g.
I have an AE alum top shaft, light motor plate, and Ti turnbuckles.
I'm using a lot of the aluminum screw kit on the car, I have 8 Ti screws on the car. All the nuts on the car are aluminum, various AE part numbers.
All the screws on the bottom of the chassis are still steel.
I used an Avid slipper and I'm using a Spektrum S6070 and SR2000 Rx.
I am not using any hard parts or aluminum upgrade parts. Those only add weight. I also am not currently running the MIP pucks. I did have it but went back to stock parts. I prefer the way the car drives with stock parts.
The only "exotic" parts on the car is Lunsford front axles and a I think 4 Lunsford ball-studs, I had them left over from my SC10 4x4 days.
I decided to do away with the battery strap and other extra battery tray ribs. That is probably the easiest way to remove a large amount of weight for no money. I have gone between servo tape and strapping the battery in, the servo tape is just easiest and cleanest looking. I never take the battery out of the car any way. I have attached a picture of the battery and electronics layout.
I can have a setup posted if your interested but it is pretty normal.
07-14-2014, 06:06 PM
I've seen a lot of talk about car weight and expense to get it lite.
So I want to post my car and want I have done, which isn't that much.
My car currently weighs 1504g.
I run a Reedy 17.5t and a 602 shorty, 212g.
I have an AE alum top shaft, light motor plate, and Ti turnbuckles.
I'm using a lot of the aluminum screw kit on the car, I have 8 Ti screws on the car. All the nuts on the car are aluminum, various AE part numbers.
All the screws on the bottom of the chassis are still steel.
I used an Avid slipper and I'm using a Spektrum S6070 and SR2000 Rx.
I am not using any hard parts or aluminum upgrade parts. Those only add weight. I also am not currently running the MIP pucks. I did have it but went back to stock parts. I prefer the way the car drives with stock parts.
The only "exotic" parts on the car is Lunsford front axles and a I think 4 Lunsford ball-studs, I had them left over from my SC10 4x4 days.
I decided to do away with the battery strap and other extra battery tray ribs. That is probably the easiest way to remove a large amount of weight for no money. I have gone between servo tape and strapping the battery in, the servo tape is just easiest and cleanest looking. I never take the battery out of the car any way. I have attached a picture of the battery and electronics layout.
I can have a setup posted if your interested but it is pretty normal.
So I want to post my car and want I have done, which isn't that much.
My car currently weighs 1504g.
I run a Reedy 17.5t and a 602 shorty, 212g.
I have an AE alum top shaft, light motor plate, and Ti turnbuckles.
I'm using a lot of the aluminum screw kit on the car, I have 8 Ti screws on the car. All the nuts on the car are aluminum, various AE part numbers.
All the screws on the bottom of the chassis are still steel.
I used an Avid slipper and I'm using a Spektrum S6070 and SR2000 Rx.
I am not using any hard parts or aluminum upgrade parts. Those only add weight. I also am not currently running the MIP pucks. I did have it but went back to stock parts. I prefer the way the car drives with stock parts.
The only "exotic" parts on the car is Lunsford front axles and a I think 4 Lunsford ball-studs, I had them left over from my SC10 4x4 days.
I decided to do away with the battery strap and other extra battery tray ribs. That is probably the easiest way to remove a large amount of weight for no money. I have gone between servo tape and strapping the battery in, the servo tape is just easiest and cleanest looking. I never take the battery out of the car any way. I have attached a picture of the battery and electronics layout.
I can have a setup posted if your interested but it is pretty normal.
I just weighted the batter foams, battery strap and thumb screws. That is 20 grams right there. A little more with the divider gone. Interesting. I already have a bunch of Ti screws above the chassis. The wing mount screws and 1 diff case screws are steel. Would alum screws be that much lighter? I would still be at 1580 is I removed the foams and strap and taped the pack in. I have the alum topshaft, alum 22 bones, avid slipper and no alum parts or hard parts either. Pull sized servo, so +20 grams there. But I could live with 1540 even. My rm car is 1550 and it has tons of power with a 17.5.
07-14-2014, 06:19 PM
Tech Apprentice
What is stock roller kit weight for RM and MM?
I've seriously tried googling it and couldn't find an answer
I've seriously tried googling it and couldn't find an answer
07-14-2014, 06:33 PM
07-14-2014, 07:08 PM
lol, I removed the strap, thumb screws and replaced all of the nuts with alum nuts.....1598. lol. I even have alum bones in the car. I have seen with my own eyes people with 1500g cars with my same battery and esc. The 1500 car I saw yesterday even had the full size xp servo.
So I am going to glue up some m4 ions for indoor racing. I plan to re-use aka red in the rear. But for the fronts. 3/4 rear or re-aka red fronts. We run tires until they are bald and they still work well. So I kinda dont want to cut and replace foams every 3-4 weeks. The track destroys open cells. The track is so tacky, it like walking on fly paper. so I assume the aka reds up front.
So I am going to glue up some m4 ions for indoor racing. I plan to re-use aka red in the rear. But for the fronts. 3/4 rear or re-aka red fronts. We run tires until they are bald and they still work well. So I kinda dont want to cut and replace foams every 3-4 weeks. The track destroys open cells. The track is so tacky, it like walking on fly paper. so I assume the aka reds up front.
07-14-2014, 07:43 PM
lol, I removed the strap, thumb screws and replaced all of the nuts with alum nuts.....1598. lol. I even have alum bones in the car. I have seen with my own eyes people with 1500g cars with my same battery and esc. The 1500 car I saw yesterday even had the full size xp servo.
So I am going to glue up some m4 ions for indoor racing. I plan to re-use aka red in the rear. But for the fronts. 3/4 rear or re-aka red fronts. We run tires until they are bald and they still work well. So I kinda dont want to cut and replace foams every 3-4 weeks. The track destroys open cells. The track is so tacky, it like walking on fly paper. so I assume the aka reds up front.
So I am going to glue up some m4 ions for indoor racing. I plan to re-use aka red in the rear. But for the fronts. 3/4 rear or re-aka red fronts. We run tires until they are bald and they still work well. So I kinda dont want to cut and replace foams every 3-4 weeks. The track destroys open cells. The track is so tacky, it like walking on fly paper. so I assume the aka reds up front.
07-14-2014, 07:47 PM
I have typo ss rears with evo wheels. fronts are m4 ions on PL wheels.
07-14-2014, 09:20 PM
I have been mostly racing SC (2wd and 4wd) but the 1/10 buggy class is very popular at my track, so I thought I would give it a shot. I received a new B5M kit on Wednesday and raced it on Sunday, and I have to say I had a blast. I ran it in the 17.5 stock class (biggest class at my track) and it was so much fun I can't wait to do it again.
07-14-2014, 09:23 PM
And I would like to thank all the posters on this thread for all the build tips and setup feedback. The buggy was running pretty good Sunday and almost everyone at the track in the stock class was running a B5 or B5m so I got lots of setup tips specific to the track.
07-14-2014, 09:37 PM
My buggy weights 1509g RTR. Schurr Speed 17.5, MIP pucks, aluminum top shaft, Savox 1251 low profile servo, aluminum screws, venom 3800mah shorty, 13awg wire, Tekin RS Gen2, Dirtwebs, MIP Bypass pistons, Jconcepts links, everything else stock.
Hot Bodies? I messed up the paint job and needed a big sticker to cover it. I didn't want to waste the AE stickers.
Hot Bodies? I messed up the paint job and needed a big sticker to cover it. I didn't want to waste the AE stickers.
07-14-2014, 09:41 PM
anybody know which way to install the FT alum rear hubs, as far as which is left and right? does the 0 degree thats painted on them go towards the front of the car or rear?
07-14-2014, 09:46 PM
07-14-2014, 10:17 PM
Would like to hear how lighter buggy is handling compared to heavier buggy. Currently am at 1552g and am considering a 3500 smc battery that would put me under 1500g. Am concerned that a lighter battery may negatively effect the handling of a mm buggy.
07-14-2014, 10:28 PM
Use 8mm ball stud #91048
Use the rear outside hole for stud & 3 mm under stud
Only slightly snub grub screw on hub
blue Lock Tight on grub & stud
07-14-2014, 10:48 PM
One other thing, all the fast guys at my track that run B5M's all said to switch to the B5 RM arms front and rear.