Wild Cherry

have two on order..

scythe23

iTrader: (4)

My friend is making cut gears in the phoenix area he is doing the b5rm for 15 and mm for 18. Send me a pm if interested we can dropped them off at w3 or srs let me know I'll have tje first batch ina few days and a few are already spoken for. First come first serve and I'll have more made as needed

aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

Whether or not one person can beat another is subjective to a lot of variables. It's never a fair comparison especially if you take into account visiting someone home track that they have thousands of laps on and know the tire game for it.

I think it's rude to speculate if a person would've beaten someone at a race they weren't at. However, if youd like me to send you some race results I can 😉

Just making a general statement that driving clean is still the most important aspect. Everyone lately gets so caught up in all this lightweight BS for stock, but if you're still clipping corners and blowing lines and having to get marshaled in an A main... You better spend that cash on more practice days and tires before dropping it on pucks or Ti screw kits or whatever.

J_P

Where is the LIKE button???

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

You criticized their driving, so I was asking for comparison. Ashe Deering just took second at the top gun and tommy got first. Yeah, some of the guys in the A Main were not on the same level, and IMO they were struggling with traction. Hence, the pipe clipping. You are correct that keeping wheels down helps greatly in racing. There was a couple MM cars in that race, but I am pretty sure 7-9 of those cars were RM. Tommy won the top gun with an RM in stock and Ashe took second. I was looking for constructive feedback on the layout, traction level and flow for RM vs MM. I plan to run MM in 17.5 tomorrow on that layout. I will be running the RM car for comparison also. Some of those tracts where people swear my light weight MM cars be awesome, probably have way more traction. I dont like super light cars. But that is me. I normally like the feel of 1550 grams on my cars. maybe a little more or less depending. IMO this track also does not have a lot of good passing lines. So that might cause more pipe clipping as people try to forced it in.

aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

Hoping you got my back on that one J_P? Lol

aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

Yes the track looked a little slick in mod and stock races. Any car/driver could've won. If that were me in the video I'd expect the same criticism. Our club races 10min mains and it's medium bite and bumpy on a good day... It's super tough to keep your shit together the whole race. I've ran several flawless mains like that. I've also won several where being flawless but not the fastest that day. I've also lost several from 1 or 2 small wrecks even though I could turn ballistic laps.

I really think mid/rear at my local indoor is a toss up between who's the better driver/car combo that day.

GTSSTANG

iTrader: (22)

How are your Aero-Model batteries holding up?

hcopp

Ive only got about ten runs through it but it seriously lasts forever. I usually can only stop by the track on my way home from work and can't spend more than an hour or two there and I have yet had to end a session due to a dead battery, simply me running out of time. Granted there is a some pit work in between there but I am blown away by how long they last.

vito

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

look good vito. are you taking it to the track soon?

vito

its all most done need to hook up the esc and motor its all most there

ronallen

iTrader: (9)

Building a rm and purchased the alum c and d blocks. What inserts and how do I get 3 toe and 2 anti. I see the pills are labeled but the rear block pills has arrows. Not sure if they are suppose to point in or out. Also what's a good all around setup to start with for Outdoor thanks

-WHEELMAN-

iTrader: (267)

Arrows should point in. Not sure about an outdoor setup.

Freeski

iTrader: (3)

For the diff, I used the the Durango TDR310033

For the top shaft, I used Calandra Racing CLN4736

If you type the part number into the amain search, they both pop right up. I used two shims for the diff and one shim for the top shaft. Now both have zero slop and spin freely.

Hope this helps. Cheers