Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Make no mistake, no matter what anyone says, George Cherry's opinion is superior.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

There are some things you can do to save a ton of weight that are relatively inexpensive such as a lighter lipo. SMC has a 3500mah lipo. I bought a couple to try out. If they can keep the voltage up for 5-7 minutes it would help a lot.....they are not expensive at all, $86 shipped for a pair. I currently use their 70/140 C 4600 lipos and they are excellent....better than my peaks for sure.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

yeah, I use the 4800mah ProMatach and they weight around 214 grams. A 150 gram lipo would be a HUGE weight loss. I am just not sure on them for 7-10 minute mains with warm up laps. My 4800 was fading around the 8 minute mark for one particular double after a 180. Once you start casing your rear wheels because your down on power, the whole race can be given away. I would try the light lipos as an "easy" weight loss, but I fear it is just not enough mah.

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

My C4.2 was 1640 grams stock buggy and owned club nights lol.

But thank you Wildcat for the info.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

umm, ok. lol. I dont race on your track, so I cant say. I think you would be hard pressed to own 17.5 buggy here with a 1640g car though, lol. Keep in mind the 2 guys that took 1st and second at the top gun race, are local club racers, lol. 17.5 club racing is pretty stout here with often A to E mains on club nights.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

I don' think that there is a better platform between the two unless you start comparing surfaces. Putting that aside, where traction is available the extra weight of the MM car is easily compensated by the increase you get in corner speed. If you need more pop you can do a few things to get it out of a heavy car. You can gear a little lower and you can lock and/or eliminate your slipper. A tooth or two is not going to loose a race unless you have monster straights on your track.

On a majority of the tracks I have run lately people seem to like MM better. For a driver of my caliber it doesn't seem to matter. I'm building a RM SC6 just because its easier to tune and work on than the MM version I'm racing now. To me the MM car is more work....I guess I'm a follower and just go with the herd. I enjoy the racing experience either way.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

yeah, I was planning to do just that next time I run the mm 17.5. Drop a few teeth and see if I can get the temps and "pop" right. Man, I like to mess around too much. On the current layout for the proline race this weekend, the MM might be the best. Its very flowing.... Maybe I will give it a go. I get 8 hours of practice on Friday, so I can do a few things . Now I am all MM motivated again, lol. I think I will pick up an alum top shaft on my way home, lol. grrr

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

I race at the same track with the same 10 or so guys running stock buggy. We get a few new people here and there creating a B Main. smedium sized track. I will likely keep the RB6 for stock. Its been performing is light and fast and already setup for stock. Thinking I will pickup a B5M for mod though. Or maybe a serpent or maybe a 22 who knows. I'll goto my store and see what impulses I have at that moment.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

dont get the 22 for mm. I have not tried the serpent MM, but the B5M is pretty good for mod. It feels more balanced than other MM cars I have tried. I thought I would struggle with bite, but I have not.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

Try an Exotek slipper eliminator. It'll be $20 with an AE spur. It saves a lot weight, and rotating mass, right at the motor. Its a much bigger improvement then a topshaft. It also gives you a huge range of spurs down to 64, maybe lower. Your car will also run a tad cooler. I'll post a pic later. Its the best kept secret ever for stock.

BillPear

iTrader: (3)

I stopped posting here a while ago due to the people that were to lazy to read/search the thread. Now with the volume of MISINFORMATION/OPINION that is posted as FACT, in regards to getting your B5m down to weight I feel I need to make on last, last post. First a few questions for the weight experts.

1. How much over the NASCAR minimum does Jimmy Johnsons car weigh WITHOUT ballast?

2. Same for Lewis Hamilton's F1 car? I guess more than Nico's since he's trailing in the points

3. How about those guys and there Tour De France bikes how much extra weight do they carry?

The answer to all three is NONE!

Finally if you think weight really doesn't matter, go ask your doctor how much extra weight you should carry.

If you want to know how to get to 1499g search out my previous posts in this thread it's all there, and doesn't cost that much. If you REALLY want to get light so you have ballasting options or want to run the FT Al parts PM me.

I wont waste the Experts (?) time responding to this thread again, nor will I be baited. I will continue to follow your ridiculous theories though, because My Teammates and I love a good laugh

PFKAOG

iTrader: (12)

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I dont like a super light car, its my preference. I know a few people who went to 1499 and could not get the car planted. I am sure all of that could be tuning. Probably is. 99% of rctech are not expert tuners. That is just a fact. And non of the "pros" run super light stock cars. Hartson didnt even do that for jc stock nats. The shock packages that WC preaches and several other preach are for heaver mod cars. If you have a perfect high bite 1499 gram setup, please post it for all to share. No sarcasm, but that info is not not here. Most people post here and going super light dont have a clue and the fast locals are not always very forth coming. They are too busy discharging and charging packs at 40 amps, grind endbells for more timing and removing winds

PFKAOG

iTrader: (12)

WHo does that?

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

most guys I know just run 10.4 volts on their batteries