chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

Not what I meant at all. Just wondering if I need to pickup hop ups. Why do you recommend the RM for stock?

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

Thanks. I know with my RB6 I needed a few parts out of the box for durability. Nothing like that?

I still like the RB6. I'm just curious about the B5 and want to pick one up and play with it. Likely to run whichever I like best in mod and the other in stock.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Box stock the MM car is just tooooo heavy. You can get the weight down with some serious spending, but if you notice AE runs the RM car in stock at bigger events. They just went 1/2 at the top gun race with the RM car. Those same AE drivers run the MM in mod. I am sure there are some tracks out there where the B5M is "fine" in stock, and some MM lover will come here and tell me how great MM is and how it works everywhere, blah blah. We run indoor medium to high bite and the pros rum RM in 17.5 and many of the lesser skilled drivers are converting to RM. It lighter and plenty nimble out of the box. Less issues with motor cooling and thus they are able to put more power down. I have both cars and have tried both cars. IMO the RM car is better suited to stock and outdoor racing. The MM is best suited to high bite mod racing. The RM car just has too much rear bite for mod on higher bite tracks. Too easy to float the front end. Also, many of the guys that have lowered the MM car to 1500, dont like it. And have issues with getting it to consistently hook up. But I am sure you will run what ever you want, everyone does. I have both cars and made my choices I dont believe in $500 in parts to lighten my car.

You dont need the alum rack. I have not seen a plastic one break yet.
The alum suspension holders are nice because you can change inserts easier than plastic. I have alum hexes on one car and stock hexes on the other. No difference in performance and my plastics ones have yet to come off with the wheel. Most people get the Ti turnbuckles. I had both. Stock had Ti, mod had steel. I never bent a steel one, but I replaced them anyway because they were rusting from the misters. Bearings? Some people hate the kit bearings. I am just now starting to get gritty from one on my mod car (stock bearings). But I have a bunch of packs on the car. I would consider their wear pretty normal. Hard parts? well they are super fragile. If you hit stuff, dont buy them. The plastics are stiffer than the b4 was by a long shot. And they are very durable. Alum pin brace? Not needed at all aside from bling. Alum rear hubs? I didnt feel like replacing them when I snap a stud off in them. I have had no issues with the stock hubs. The xrings are nice. Not really sure they are required though. I just put the traxxas ones in when I needed a rebuild. I have the AE xrings in my other car, do difference in feel or leaking. Puck? Only in stock IMO. anyway my 2 cents on hop ups. If you want to run stock with the B5M, just open your wallet, but that is the way of stock these days.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Well, for the MM car, I run the RM front and rear arms and the RM front tower. I also run my shorty all the way back. And i can do wheelies and have plenty of side bite. Durability.... I have broken nothing on my MM car. And it is not because I am a great driver, lol. The B5 series may be the more durable top tier car on the market unless you buy the hard parts. The only thing I dont like is the Slipper. Not in mod and not in stock. Its is just a crappy design period. I run the Avid Triad for both stock and mod. In fact, the lunsfords and triad are the only upgrades my MM car had for Mod. I had a RB6, it was good, never tried MM.

QDRHRSE

iTrader: (515)

I'm trying to run and compare the RB6 and B5, both RM and MM. I have them all, at least I did. I reluctantly sold my RM B5s. They were pretty good. My lap times my first time out with the B5 RM were on par with the lap times that I normally run with my MM RB6. Hopefully I'll have the opportunity to run a B5M this week. I only run stock and regardless of brand I bling all my cars out. I run pucks in everything mostly because it makes more long term sense to buy them.....if your good on maintainance you never need to replace the axles, CVs, outdrives, and bones. In stock I run a slipper eliminator on everything. I'm actually pretty surprised at the quality of the B5. Its not quite up to par with Kyosho but when you consider its a 2 for 1 proposition in terms of roller prices it is very attractive. So far my honest opinion is that the B5 is on par with the RB6 at half the price. I don't know how they wear because I change cars every month or two but thus far they are really good. I've been running the RB6s for a while and have never broken a single part....not one thing. Both of my RB6 cars have the Kyosho aluminum hangers, aluminum hubs, exotek bulkheads, aluminum rack, pucks, CF battery straps n stays....etc. The B5s get mostly the same stuff except no pucks and I do put the Ti turnbuckles on them. So far very little difference in performance with the AE cars being half price. Our track is sugared bluegroove much like the track that they run at the Cactus. The one thing that I will say about the B5 RM is that it didn't turn quite as well the MM RB6, mostly on power but it is very stable and is very predictable. I'll spend more time with the MM B5. It looks really good on the track with an almost box setup.

I guess I'll keep updating as I continue to test them all out. I'd say I'm a mid pack sportsman. I'm not a pro by any means but I can set up a car ok and have pro level support. Although I love the K cars the roller prices have even me a little fed up. By the time I get an RB6 roller all dialed I can almost build a raceable B5 with electronics.

3srcracing

iTrader: (29)

What does going from 1.6 x2 all the way around to 1.4 x3 all the way around do?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

less pack more slow speed steering. I run the 1.4 in the front and 1.6 in the rear. I still want more pack though. Might go up in oils again.

rc23

iTrader: (74)

TQ was MM and broke in one of the double a's. MM is better.. period.

And there are no "pros" in 17.5.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I didnt say MM sucked. I said it was too heavy at stock weight. If i tried to run a B5M at stock weight locally, I would not clear jumps and i would burn up motors. My point was they went 1/2 in that race. So the RM car is competitive. If i could only own 1 car, it would the the RM car. When all is said and done, I like it better. The one thing that I really really dislike about MM is the difficulty in jumping them. The RM car jumps so much better and is way less sensitive in the air.

If you have a chassis sponsor, your a "Pro" imo. Maybe not a full factory driver. Also, Hartson ran stock at the JC stock nats race.....Is he not a pro? Lol. Yeah and it was the MM car, I know.

BryanJ

iTrader: (3)

Mayo was running MM. Tommy was running BK's RM in 17.5, with Ashe also running RM. It was basically a wash in terms of which config was preferred.

rc23

iTrader: (74)

Yes Hartson is the only pro to run stock in 2014, and it was MM.

There are many people that get chassis sponsors for their helpfulness around the track and this does not indicate they are "pro"

Yes, it is easier to go fast with a RM car for less money, but the speed of a motor does not change which car works better at a track.



If MM is faster in mod, it is also faster in stock, granted you may have to spend money on lightening the car, work on keeping the motor cool, but if its better in mod its better in stock.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

"On" the track on medium plus bite it feels great. In the air, I like the RM car feel better. Yeah, if you can lighten the car, keep the wait bias balanced and keep the motor cool, your good. Most of the guys at the club level running the MM cars and not getting the motors hot are running "torque" rotors, usually 13mm, which are ILLEGAL, lol. I am sure that some of the larger races..no nats or roar races, driver are using these toque rotors, lol. I tried one and it dropped my motor temps a lot. The car was slightly slower on the straight, but the grunt and lower temps were worth it. But again, more $$.


But yes, my MM car corners better than the RM car. If that is all you care about then MM wins

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

not for nothing, but I ran my 22 2.0 in 17.5 at 1600+ gr and it was fine. I think what it comes down to is if you are more comfortable with MM, you'll be faster with it. but with that said, if I decide to run 17.5, I'll have Pucks, lightened top shaft and Triad slipper for which ever car I run it in.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Bob, part of the weight issue comes into the layout. He they love the 180 1 foot run up triple. I ran both cars are stock weight, with the same electronics and the MM car was just too heavy. could never make the jumps on short run up. Our current layout has sissy jumps with longer run ups, so MM is much easier to drive. Plus they put in a ton of flowing turns. Last layout was pretty much all 180's lol. Next ime i run SRS, I might toss in a 17.5 and run it for a heat to see how it does. There is only one jump that I think would be hard to do for 10 minutes.


Btw, the pucks saves almost 30 grams, lol. that is a real chunk of weight.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

yeah that's true. Some layouts require much more rip. If I build a 17.5 car, I'll likely do RM 17.5 and MM mod. But that's only because I already have both and the 17.5 car will sit on the shelf most of the year. It's box stock and already almost under weight. After doing the transmission, it will definitely be under. Once the FT B5M comes out and I get that, then the current 5M will get the 17.5 motor slapped in.