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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 02-14-2015, 09:53 AM   #11626
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Originally Posted by Wease View Post
(2x) 5x10x4 bearings. The 3 gear aluminum top shaft rides on smaller bearings compared to the 4 gear transmission which uses 6x12x4
You don't need the bearings when going to 3 gear. You can take the bearings out of the second idler gear to use for the new top shaft.
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Old 02-14-2015, 10:05 AM   #11627
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You don't need the bearings when going to 3 gear. You can take the bearings out of the second idler gear to use for the new top shaft.
ooh, thanks. saved some coin there. i'm running the schelle ceramics so re-using them instead of buying new is a plus.
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Old 02-14-2015, 11:31 AM   #11628
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ooh, thanks. saved some coin there. i'm running the schelle ceramics so re-using them instead of buying new is a plus.
just built mine last week.
trans case
motor plate (or modified 4 gear plate)
gear cover
top shaft v2
diff shims (this is a must there is atleast 1/8 inch of play without them)
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Old 02-14-2015, 12:10 PM   #11629
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just built mine last week.
trans case
motor plate (or modified 4 gear plate)
gear cover
top shaft v2
diff shims (this is a must there is atleast 1/8 inch of play without them)
Which diff shims are you buying? I have my 3 gear on the way, but just had the gear cover come in off backorder, so I can add some shims to the order.
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Old 02-14-2015, 04:16 PM   #11630
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I've only had my B5M out three times and it was on carpet so it didn't get dirty but my front wheel bearings seem a little rough already. Seems like I remember reading about that being fairly common somewhere back in the thread.

Would you guys suggest just replacing the front wheel bearings or should I go ahead and just buy a full set? Should I buy ceramic if I'm not running stock and trying to remove every bit of friction possible?

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Old 02-14-2015, 04:24 PM   #11631
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Read the first post in this thread for the answer.
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Old 02-14-2015, 04:49 PM   #11632
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Read the first post in this thread for the answer.
I've read it at least 10 times and just now scanned back through it. I don't see the answer. Am I completely looking over something? I'm not asking about crush washers if that's what you mean.
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Old 02-14-2015, 05:10 PM   #11633
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I've read it at least 10 times and just now scanned back through it. I don't see the answer. Am I completely looking over something? I'm not asking about crush washers if that's what you mean.
Well I believe the crush washers are the reason for the bearings becoming gritty after that short time. They were originally too narrow and they wouldn't function properly, which caused the bearings to become gritty.

As far as replacing all bearings, if you are still running kit bearings, then I would buy a new bearing kit. If you buy from AVID you can customize what type for each size bearing needed. I believe most just buy ceramics for the gear box.
http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=800&kitname=B5M
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Old 02-14-2015, 05:17 PM   #11634
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Originally Posted by iScream View Post
I've read it at least 10 times and just now scanned back through it. I don't see the answer. Am I completely looking over something? I'm not asking about crush washers if that's what you mean.
It's in the Q&A section as are many common questions.

Quote:
Q: I'm getting binding/grinding in my front wheel bearings, how can I fix this issue?
A: There was/is an issue with the crush washer that resides between the two front wheel bearings. AE has addressed the issue with a running change (to my knowledge). To fix the issue, simply get a new crush tube, buy better quality bearings (plenty of places sell bearings by the pack) or monitor the bearing inserts for molding issues. Also try a clamping hex with axle in the front (best solution, honestly).
Quote:
Originally Posted by mschumi101 View Post
As far as replacing all bearings, if you are still running kit bearings, then I would buy a new bearing kit. If you buy from AVID you can customize what type for each size bearing needed. I believe most just buy ceramics for the gear box.
http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=800&kitname=B5M
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Old 02-14-2015, 05:22 PM   #11635
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http://www.liverc.com/news/new_produ...battery_brace/

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This is the Factory RC AE B5m Carbon Fiber Shorty Brace with adjustable battery stop blocks. This brace replaces the stock plastic battery retainer bracket and allows you to use the adjustable battery stop instead of foam blocks. This brace allows you to run the battery shifted forward or rearward. Simply install the battery stop on either side, and adjust to your packs length to remove any slack. Remove a battery stop to allow full rearward or full forward positioning in the car. Fitment is snug and prevents the battery from shifting. This brace is designed to be narrow allowing for additional chassis flex in the car. Battery brace is made from 3mm Carbon Fiber and your choice of Heavy Duty Carbon Steel screws or Titanium Screws. Upgrade to Factory RC!






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Old 02-14-2015, 06:16 PM   #11636
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Which diff shims are you buying? I have my 3 gear on the way, but just had the gear cover come in off backorder, so I can add some shims to the order.
I would also like to know where you got the shims
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Old 02-14-2015, 08:17 PM   #11637
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It's in the Q&A section as are many common questions.
Sure, I saw the question and answer, which you modified in your "quote".

I should have asked my real question more clearly though and shouldn't have replied back while my wife was standing in front of me waiting to leave for dinner.

But mschumi101 answered it pretty well.
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Old 02-14-2015, 08:45 PM   #11638
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Originally Posted by iScream View Post
Sure, I saw the question and answer, which you modified in your "quote".

I should have asked my real question more clearly though and shouldn't have replied back while my wife was standing in front of me waiting to leave for dinner.

But mschumi101 answered it pretty well.
the answer is everywhere. in short, the kit bearing suck and the front spindles and insert suck. I am using ceramic bearings in one of my cars and is had been smooth for months. well about a year now. all my non ceramics get crunchy after a month or so.
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Old 02-14-2015, 09:44 PM   #11639
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I broke my stock battery strap tonight at track...looking to upgrade and was considering the Schelle one...anyone running that one? Is that the best one?
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Old 02-14-2015, 09:48 PM   #11640
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I loke the exotek or plan b racing strap.
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