scythe23

iTrader: (4)

im in the same boat at 1620 grams. Here is what you need to do from what I have found

ti turnbuckles
alum topshaft
nova/triad slipper
pucks
shorty servo
and to get that low people are running the slim 3300mah lipos that only weight around 150g.

mschumi101

iTrader: (30)

My Orion uses 12 guage wire. Its pretty beefy and can certainly handle mod power. If running stock, or looking to save weight try the 14 guage.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

you should also not that some people that have gotten that low didnt like it. I personally would take it in steps and stop once you get the feel you need. Keep in mind that going with ALL of the light weight drive terrain will lower your weight over the tires. Some guys are actually adding it back with the brass suspension holder. thus keeping weight in the rear and lowering it on the car. People with shorty servos have said that the started to get push up front. So keep in mind. yeah, lowering weight will lower motor temps, but it will change the entire feel of the car. maybe not for the best. The BIG weight loss comes from the 150g battery. If i were you, I would borrow a friends that has one, set your ride height and see how you like the 50+ grams you just lost. dropping a 100+ grams from your car and lowering the rotating mass will make the car handle very differently.

Wild Cherry

get some Reedy 15g Vito, its smaller , lighter & carry's the same power as the heavier , thicker 15g available.

Sorry above all wrong Vito..whoops..

Get 12g Reedy # 647
Its a lot thinner and lighter then normal 12g motor wire.

What I use...

RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

15g? never seen that before. don't see it on reedy's site.

Solidhype

I had this, too! with a savox standard size servo, my sollution was first to remove the plastic spacers as above stated, then i took a 3mm drill and drilled the servo mount hole so the servo came just a tad more backwards, THEN it cleared just about with a couple MM left.

And about the horn, just got the tlr22 25t horn but ofc as you said it did not fit as i thought, so i took a file and opened the hole just a bit and forced the stud in there and kinda "re-tapped" it with the stud :P and it actually worked fine and is fitting hard when you screw it in it is alu so its no as hard as a steel one and it gave in for the stud :P

Micah123

iTrader: (1)

If it is 23T and the offset is sufficient, looks like it might take care of things. I had already removed all the spacers and it is still hitting servo. Was going to dremmel assoc servo horn and thin it out a bit where the ball stud attaches but may try 1554 first. thanks for the help all.

GTSSTANG

iTrader: (22)

Thanks guys for your input. Very wise information. I have taken this all into account.

My track is switching to carpet, so traction should be awesome and very consistent. Handling could be way different than on clay, especially being able to run 5mm lower ride height.

I like lots of steering, I run the gullwing front arms and the battery is all the way forward, so a lighter servo is probably not a good idea, I do not know how it will handle on the carpet.

Good idea, I may start with a lighter battery.

rc23

iTrader: (74)

1640 with a shorty and ti screws seems exceedingly high. Are they lunsford screws?

i'm at 1550 with lunsford ti screws, jconcepts ti turnbuckles, lunsford ti shock mounts and ballstuds and nothing else yet. Waiting on pucks and aluminum topshaft and milled motor plate.

One thing that you may overlook is you can actually remove about 20 grams by not running a battery strap, thumbscrews or foam. Just tape the lipo in with servo tape.

Also the battery im using is 220 grams.

I believe i can get to 1500 without milling the chassis, we shall see.

GTSSTANG

iTrader: (22)

No, they are not Lunsford. Also, I am only using half of the ti screws (waiting to install some other items first).

I am also using an Exotek carbon fiber battery strap and have a amb transponder installed.

I do have cut gears, MIP Pucks and a MIP top shaft waiting to go in.

ToddMcM

iTrader: (2)

In case you didn't find it already.

http://www.rcmart.com/3racing-3racwg...y-p-25253.html

bambambennett

Less anti squat enables the rear of the car to absorb the bumps easier but you can lose some on power exit steering from this due to weight transferring more to the rear when the rear settles in more on acceleration.

Silly question, are you running closed or open cell foams? Reason I ask is because I find when running on a rough track with well used open cell foams the rear becomes unpredictable from sidewall fold and snap.

glueguy

Just finished building my B5 and it's the first buggy for me. How do you get to the front body clip. My fingers can't get down in between the shocks and upright. What's the technique?

bambambennett

Quit worrying about the weight of the car. A heavy car is a planted car. I added weight to my RM 17.5 car to reduce deflection. Sometimes no suspension change alone can accomplish a desired feel. If you do reduce the weight, slowly reduce rotating mass like stated above in a step process. I went really lite on the drivetrain to find the car became too snappy for my liking so I changed to a gear diff to get some rotating mass back(along with a more consistent diff feel) back and it is right on the money now. If you feel your car is slower compared to others you race with, maybe it is time to invest effort into a free rotating drivetrain and really good motor/esc tuning.

bambambennett

Most use hook and loop tape on the edge of the chassis and body. I only use the post mounts for locators and never use the clips. Way easier