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Old 02-10-2015, 07:51 PM   #11506
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I converted one B5 to a mid and bought a b5m, both are the same, no worries.
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Old 02-10-2015, 07:56 PM   #11507
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anybody know how much lighter the "lite" chassis is going to be compared to current chassis?

options: go with lite chassis and play with different batteries or keep regular chassis for lower cg across the car?
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:01 PM   #11508
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anybody know how much lighter the "lite" chassis is going to be compared to current chassis?

options: go with lite chassis and play with different batteries or keep regular chassis for lower cg across the car?
I am curious as well. The SLRC chassis only saves 24grams and it is thinner all the way around. AE just added some milling. I was hoping for about 25g, but maybe not that much.
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:06 PM   #11509
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ok, good. i just have to set gearing for it. im running indoor clay. pretty grippy. like aka clay chainlinks. im looking for stock blinky 17.5t motor gearing help. and possibly 10.5t mod gearing.

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I converted one B5 to a mid and bought a b5m, both are the same, no worries.
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:35 PM   #11510
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anybody know how much lighter the "lite" chassis is going to be compared to current chassis?

options: go with lite chassis and play with different batteries or keep regular chassis for lower cg across the car?
I heard the chassis is lighter by approx 20 grams, but I believe thats just hear-say at this point.
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:46 PM   #11511
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How much does the savings help when it is in the chassis and so low to the ground. Would you want the chassis to be the heaviest item and all the stuff on top to be lighter? Question for you engineering guys.
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Old 02-10-2015, 09:22 PM   #11512
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How much does the savings help when it is in the chassis and so low to the ground. Would you want the chassis to be the heaviest item and all the stuff on top to be lighter? Question for you engineering guys.
All things being even the lower your center of gravity is the less roll you will experience.

That being said all this talk of less grams here and less grams there can never replace solid set of driving skills developed through practice.
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Old 02-10-2015, 10:22 PM   #11513
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That all depends on the grip level... Ball diff is usually ok on carpet as long as its built and broken in properly
I blew a ball diff already on the second night and its high grip plus I'm using pin points on the rears and wedges z3 on the from and its crazy grip it points and goes very easy to traction roll so I'm goin to try both out so do u have any idea what diff fluid I would use bc I was kinda thinking about 1000-2000 plus I will b switching to outdoor here soon
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Old 02-10-2015, 10:54 PM   #11514
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I blew a ball diff already on the second night and its high grip plus I'm using pin points on the rears and wedges z3 on the from and its crazy grip it points and goes very easy to traction roll so I'm goin to try both out so do u have any idea what diff fluid I would use bc I was kinda thinking about 1000-2000 plus I will b switching to outdoor here soon
From my experience, 2K minimum on carpet. 3-5K was better on higher grip to help prevent diffing out on corner entry and to give more on power steering. I drove a car with 10K and it had too much on power steering.

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Old 02-11-2015, 12:10 AM   #11515
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From my experience, 2K minimum on carpet. 3-5K was better on higher grip to help prevent diffing out on corner entry and to give more on power steering. I drove a car with 10K and it had too much on power steering.

Ray
Ok thanks
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Old 02-11-2015, 05:48 AM   #11516
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Same here:

2k had nice off power steering but too much diffing out, 7k was to heavy, off power steering suffered quite a bit. i'm currently running 5k on a relatively tight carpet track. I think that's pretty much the sweet spot there.
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Old 02-11-2015, 07:07 AM   #11517
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Hi Jonathan,

Im not sure what the grip level of the carpet you are racing on is, but when I have raced on carpet it was high grip and I needed a lot of weight towards the front. Your setup is very rear biased (weight at the rear etc).

If you need to improve braking in a straight line (no cornering), then yes more weight at the rear will help. Reducing anti-squat helps a little, and going to a 3 gear transmission will also help (4 gears help acceleration traction but hurt braking traction). Loosening the slipper clutch can also make a big difference to brake control.

If you car is swinging around on corner entry, it can be due to having too much weight at the rear, causing a 'pendulum' effect. Have you tried taking the weight out of the back?

Ive also found that running a stiffer spring and anti-roll bar on the back will improve stability on higher grip tracks. Also make sure that your diff isnt too loose - its easy to unload the inner rear tyre on brake / corner entry, causing a sudden loss of braking and an unpredictable feel. The oil is also much softer than I have used on carpet. Ive normally run 32 wt / 1.6 hole pistons on the rear on carpet.

Hope this helps.

Ray
Thanks for the replies

I tried quite a lot of setups . Btw I forgot to say I had antiroll bar too on my setup the blue one (the thickest otherwise it can roll over in the fastest corners).

Our track has some grip but being thick carpet it tends to flow with the cars and change characteristics as you drive.
The track is in a gymnasium so the width is about 2m max and you can expect 90 sharp turn at the end of the straight line. So it's pretty much full throttle and in the last meters full break then full steer hard.

I tried the AE 45g brass block at the front but didn't like it.
I tried 90g 120g and 150g and of course no weight but preferred by far the 120g. The pendulum effect will only show with the 150g one.
Tried the gear diff at 2k 3k and 5k. The ball diff and the 2k were pretty close and were better for me. I kept the ball diff because of the 2k diff kept loosing it's oil on a regular basis.
Tried many camber link positions but the effects were pretty subtle to me compared with my issues. So I left them back to original position with just no shims to limit roll traction into corners overall.

My clutch is the Avid triad which I like a lot. My mates are amazed how my 7.5t is butter smooth on the track. They all feared that going from 13.5t to 7.5t would be too much of a leap but when they tried my car they love it .

Up until now I had 32.5wt all around with 1.6x2front and 2x1.7back. The 25wt/45wt gave me a bite more rear bite especially when changing direction fast.
Also I forgot to say that the axle height is set low in the C hubs. Gives me a more nimble front in mid corner.

Thanks again for all the useful inputs

Jonathan

Ps: I also tried many tires on our track.
Rear:
Pin point z3 = useless
Schum yellow mini pin = the best and what I use but wear after 90min max
35 shore foams = useless
Mini spike = not much luck

Front:
Mini pin yellow slim= totally undriveable, way too twitchy
Cut stagger low profil in most compound = the best compromise in yellow (what I use)
Cut stagger std = understeers too much when off power
45shore foams = useless
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Old 02-11-2015, 07:21 AM   #11518
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90 minutes of use on a tire is a lot. Just replace your tires more often if they are good when new. you cant tune around bad tires
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Old 02-11-2015, 09:12 AM   #11519
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90 is the max I can stand lol after that it's unbearable.
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Old 02-11-2015, 09:15 AM   #11520
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90 minutes of use on a tire is a lot.
That's like...a day.

Practice, quals, and the main. When ya think about it, yea 90 is a lot for those tires to go through. But for the club racer...one day. And tires now a days have to have some type of magistical prep, clean, sauce, sit, air out, GO! type of ritual to be competitive. LOL.

I'm not griping at you. Just the situation.
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