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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 02-08-2015, 10:22 PM   #11431
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Yeah it helped with on power mid to exit corner steering. I am working on getting the car to have less turn in and more mid to exit on power. It sounds easy but thus far has been elusive for me.
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Old 02-09-2015, 07:30 AM   #11432
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Skeeter36, what's that setup of yours?
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Old 02-09-2015, 07:50 AM   #11433
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Does the 3 gear tranny move the motor back?
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Old 02-09-2015, 07:54 AM   #11434
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no
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:15 AM   #11435
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I moved my receiver (airtronics rx-371, #92524) and speedo (tekin rs) inline, also shortened up the wires a bit as they were never "fitted" for this car when I originally did them. Rx is in front, esc is part way into the battery tray using stock battery brace. I also ran the sensor wire underneath the battery after relieving some of the underside of the back part of the tray to make sure the wire did not get pinched. I have enough room for 3 battery spacers to move battery around. currently 2 spacers in the back. Unfortunately I did not get to scale the car before or after (whoops). With all the cold fronts coming through the air has been really dry causing the track to dry out more than normal this weekend so the first half of the first round was a little slow. There is definitely a noticeable difference in weight bias. With this electronics layout/tires the car pushed more than normal but by the mains the track came around to the car so I was able to push harder comfortably but the car was still tight in the groove in some areas. The only changes I had time to make was to lower the roll center. (1mm spacer on stock inner mounts front and rear from 0 at last sunday's test n tune) I'm still not happy with the front end gripping inconsistently through out the event so it's probably time to play with it again. I'm pretty sure some of this is slacking on shock upkeep.

Hope you all had a great weekend.
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:38 AM   #11436
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some things I do differently from your video is I put some oil on the shock shaft, slime up the seals and build that package onto the shaft. Obviously you can boof up an o-ring when putting the seal into the shock body depending on which shaft end you use and how gentle you are. The other deal and probably would make this far easier for everyone is to pre-thread your shock eyelets with one of the other kit screws. The other thing I do is put a drop of oil on my finger and lube up all the external o-rings. It makes me feel better if anything

props to proper usage on "meniscus"
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:43 AM   #11437
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I also lube the shaft. It just feel better when I slide it in.
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:48 AM   #11438
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Quote:
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some things I do differently from your video is I put some oil on the shock shaft, slime up the seals and build that package onto the shaft. Obviously you can boof up an o-ring when putting the seal into the shock body depending on which shaft end you use and how gentle you are. The other deal and probably would make this far easier for everyone is to pre-thread your shock eyelets with one of the other kit screws. The other thing I do is put a drop of oil on my finger and lube up all the external o-rings. It makes me feel better if anything

props to proper usage on "meniscus"
+1 on installing on the shaft.. Ive F'd up multiple orings that way..

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I also lube the shaft. It just feel better when I slide it in.
lol.. frazeing
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:51 AM   #11439
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+1 on installing on the shaft.. Ive F'd up multiple orings that way..



lol.. frazeing
2 things I do to my builds. Use xrings and I replace the crappy button head screws with cap head screws. Especially on the alum caps. More screw material to bite into and lower risk of stripping out the head.
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Old 02-09-2015, 10:22 AM   #11440
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People actually use the red o-rings?

Why?
Because not everyone can justify the $8 price difference for the performance gain.

Some may not be able to notice the difference, on the track, why should they spend the money?
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Old 02-09-2015, 10:28 AM   #11441
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The red o-rings were fine on v1 big bores. On v2, they're horrible because the bladder is smaller and it really compresses them. Even brand new, they stick like crazy. On the v1 big bores, you could run a set of reds forever because they leaked at first, then they swelled up and sealed and wore in perfect. Now you need the clear x-rings to have a smooth shock. Kinda a lateral movement that was best for racers building their shocks more often, but not so good for the hobby guy.

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Old 02-09-2015, 10:32 AM   #11442
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
Because not everyone can justify the $8 price difference for the performance gain.

Some may not be able to notice the difference, on the track, why should they spend the money?
I built my b5m with the x rings, as previous AE cars with red orings had leaky shocks within 3 race days. I have not had one leak yet with the x rings, and if it does, it's so minimal I don't see it. Thats worth it to me.
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Old 02-09-2015, 10:34 AM   #11443
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i was going to buy the mip gear box to just run up and down the street was not a good move i got the 3 gear box from ae
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Old 02-09-2015, 10:55 AM   #11444
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Don't quote that crap, just report it.

(referring to the now deleted vulgar troll post)
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Old 02-09-2015, 11:28 AM   #11445
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Does anybody know if the B5M Lite will came with the VTS slipper? Apparently it seems so and I don't really understand why if the car is aim for high bite tracks

Looking at this past weekend photos of the Jconcepts indoor national series, none of the AE guys were using the lite version. Do you know why?

I am going to buy a new b5m and I am not sure that the lite version is the way to go for mid class on medium traction tracks.

And why is the gear diff (91461) out of the stoco everywhere?

Thank you in advance!
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