Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Yeah, camber is easy to set. My issue is, when I change camber, toe changes also. Its a back an forth thing. I will try the ruler method you suggested for toe, as my eyeing it method takes a while, lol. Again, I can do it, I just dislike it, lol. Was looking for an easier/faster way to get the toe and camber right. Again, camber is easy. But it messes with toe, so i go back and forth.

Speed Freak RC

iTrader: (13)

I just did the same thing yesterday and put Lunsfords on mine. I used my calipers to measure the distance between the cups (exposed part of turnbuckle) and re-set the lunsfords to that measurement when I put it back together. Went quick and easy, and all my settings are exactly the same.

Speed Freak RC

iTrader: (13)

I had the same issue. Put the top shaft in the case, then the first idler next to the top shaft and put the case halves together. Spin the top shaft and see if it's free. Then do the same with the other idler gear. I bet you will find one of the two idlers feels rough.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

yeah, I was planning to do that...but I like to tinker, lol. I am currently using LONG links front and rear. I plan to goto inside/inside front and inside/outside 2 hole in the rear. So my measurements wont be the same. Since i am using kit front positions, I plan to use the kit measurements up front and then adjust from there. The rear is super easy and not even worth talking about, lol. Maybe tonight I will start polishing my balls and start working on it. I saw a guy at the track using the DE setup wheels and was debating if that was even worth it.

Also, I posted a cup binding video last week. I might do a small before and after polishing one to demonstrate how much you can free them up with a dremel and some 800 grit. I just spent the entire weekend moving and now unpacking, so my RC free time has been hampered.

mschumi101

iTrader: (30)

The camber shouldn't affect the toe. I have never had that problem on any of my cars. Just make sure to drop the car and settle the suspension before each link you adjust, and after you adjust each link to make sure the car is settled. You can easily push the car down and have one corner measure to -1 camber, but as soon as you settle it have it be -1.5 or something like that. Same goes with adjusting toe. Settle-measure-adjust-settle-measure- repeat. Additionally when adjusting front toe I like to do it with the car on so that the steering doesn't move and is held in place by the servo. Helps eliminate changes from ackerman.

Micah123

iTrader: (1)

I push down to the max then release. Isn't that the same as dropping the car? Seems like it would even be more consistent.

mschumi101

iTrader: (30)

Yeah, pushing it all the way down or dropping it should do the same thing. On my touring cars I always push down then release. But with buggies I prefer to drop them as that is how they will settle after a jump. Just my logic, but both methods should achieve the same results.

And by pushing down I meant when you are actually adjusting the link itself. And you fail to settle the car after adjusting. Sorry, should have made that more clear.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

If you drop of push the car down, it should return to the ride height settings. I like to drop it to because its more fun, lol.

Speed Freak RC

iTrader: (13)

Camber will always affect toe. Don't believe it? Pop the inner ball cup off the caber link and tilt the wheel in and out using the camber link. You will see the toe also changes, although it's not a whole lot when your talking small camber adjustments. That's why its a good idea to adjust camber first before you move on to toe.

scythe23

iTrader: (4)

+1

J@UNE

iTrader: (1)

Just wanted to share for those like me that are just trying without letting go their TLR cars.

I did this mod a while ago on my team-c vehicule so ive re-use it on the b5m. Ive cut the 22 front hex and drill them bigger. Used cuntershunk screw and a 1mm spacer to get same offset.

suby723

iTrader: (21)

100% correct.

Photocycler

iTrader: (36)

what is a good competitive servo, motor, esc setup for this buggy? Will be running on an indoor carpet track

scythe23

iTrader: (4)

I am really liking the hacker motor and esc's orion makes a nice esc as well. As for servos you can't go wrong with savox

Speed Freak RC

iTrader: (13)

There's thousands of choices out there. Best bet is to read up on the different equipment your considering and make your own choice.