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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 01-18-2015, 11:44 PM   #10606
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This post is probably the best thing I have ever seen since WC was banned. Sorry WC, still love ya buddy hahaha
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I had not hurt of said event until now.
WC wasn't banned.
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Old 01-18-2015, 11:45 PM   #10607
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out here in Southern California, all 10 in the expert stock main at OCRC ran the Schuur Speed 17.5 motors. Great value and mine is going strong one year later.

http://www.schuurspeed.com/spec
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Old 01-18-2015, 11:46 PM   #10608
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Banned, suspended, same difference. He was booted for a month and it rivaled the news of Maifield going to TLR
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Old 01-19-2015, 11:28 AM   #10609
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Default Clamping Hexes

I picked up the front and rear clamping hexes for the B5M and was wondering a couple things:

1) How snug to the hub carriers should i install these? Do i need to leave a little play?

2) How tight do you tighten down the screws? I snug them up and then give them a little torque... I didn't crush them down, but just wondering.

3) Should I be putting loctite on the screws?

Thanks!

Last edited by sstriano; 01-19-2015 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 01-19-2015, 11:36 AM   #10610
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don't need to start a war here but wheres wc in bin mounths
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Old 01-19-2015, 11:55 AM   #10611
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Last night I took my front end apart to see about putting some weight in the bulkhead instead of spending the money on a brass one. But then I noticed that the top brace is hollow in that portion. So instead of messing with trying to form lead around the bracing in the bend of the front chassis, I just put some weigh up in the hollow portion. Has anyone else tried this? Did it work well or is the weight too high up?
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Old 01-19-2015, 11:56 AM   #10612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sstriano View Post
I picked up the front and rear clamping hexes for the B5M and was wondering a couple things:

1) How snug to the hub carriers should i install these? Do i need to leave a little play? Push axle in with thumb and press hex with finger

2) How tight do you tighten down the screws? I snug them up and then give them a little torque... I didn't crush them down, but just wondering. No need to use hulk strength...just tighten until resistance.

3) Should I be putting loctite on the screws? No

Thanks!
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Old 01-19-2015, 12:12 PM   #10613
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So you dont want to have any play side to side. Correct?
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Old 01-19-2015, 12:15 PM   #10614
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So you dont want to have any play side to side. Correct?
the wheel will pull the whole thing tight when mounted, you want the hex tight enough to not come off though.
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Old 01-19-2015, 01:24 PM   #10615
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
the wheel will pull the whole thing tight when mounted, you want the hex tight enough to not come off though.
Do I need to run the crush tubes with the clamping axles? I have heard they have issues and I have a set of notch bearings now.

What is going to happen if I leave them out?

FWIW my current crush tubes measure 1.98mm thick. What do the new ones measure?

Thanks!!

Last edited by sstriano; 01-19-2015 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 01-19-2015, 02:01 PM   #10616
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Originally Posted by Thomas PA View Post
Last night I took my front end apart to see about putting some weight in the bulkhead instead of spending the money on a brass one. But then I noticed that the top brace is hollow in that portion. So instead of messing with trying to form lead around the bracing in the bend of the front chassis, I just put some weigh up in the hollow portion. Has anyone else tried this? Did it work well or is the weight too high up?

Lower on the chassis the weight is, the better it is for the CG

How much weight did you add ?
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Old 01-19-2015, 04:09 PM   #10617
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How long of a sensor wire do you have to have to work in the recommended spot where you mount the esc.
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Old 01-19-2015, 05:58 PM   #10618
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How long of a sensor wire do you have to have to work in the recommended spot where you mount the esc.
175mm.
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Old 01-19-2015, 08:18 PM   #10619
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http://www.redrc.net/2015/01/rdrp-b5...teering-plate/



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Revolution Design Racing Products have a new aluminium option part for the Team Associated B5 series of buggies available. The aluminium steering plate replaces the kitís plastic rack with a more sturdy solution for added rigidity and better looks. The CNC-machined 7075-T6 aluminium part considerably strengthens the steering assembly for less slop, a more precise steering reaction and less flex, resulting in a rock solid steering feeling and more durability in the event of a crash. The RDRP B5RM/MM Aluminium Steering Plate fits the B5, B5M and T5M kit and it comes blue anodised and laser-etched to match the remainder of RDRPís Team Associated option parts.
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Old 01-19-2015, 09:18 PM   #10620
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Default Exotek B5M Aluminum Rear Ball Stud Mount

Wanting confirmation that the side that is supposed to be the same as the stock ball stud mount is actually the same. It looks like it is 1mm higher. Thanks
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