137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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05-19-2014, 08:27 PM
05-19-2014, 08:31 PM
Stalling is something most mid motor designs battle.
In the middle of the corner the car stalls when rotating in the corner
Inexperienced drivers may not notice, experience driver can .
Problem is worst when having to much weight towards the rear of car and chassis roll is limited.
In the middle of the corner the car stalls when rotating in the corner
Inexperienced drivers may not notice, experience driver can .
Problem is worst when having to much weight towards the rear of car and chassis roll is limited.
05-19-2014, 09:20 PM
*IDEA*
I noticed when installing my motor today in my build, there is a small gap underneath it once tightened down. The chassis would be a great heatsink! I'm sure someone can tool a piece of aluminum to fit between and transfer some of the heat to the chassis to help keep temps down. Putting a "curve" to hug the motor would keep it from moving around.
Please remember this post to whomever makes this and possible sells it, I want a demo
I noticed when installing my motor today in my build, there is a small gap underneath it once tightened down. The chassis would be a great heatsink! I'm sure someone can tool a piece of aluminum to fit between and transfer some of the heat to the chassis to help keep temps down. Putting a "curve" to hug the motor would keep it from moving around.
Please remember this post to whomever makes this and possible sells it, I want a demo
05-19-2014, 10:17 PM
Tech Apprentice
05-19-2014, 10:24 PM
Tech Apprentice
I have a friend that has a machine shop. I having a aluminum top shaft drop shipped to him. He's going to machine off the gear teeth on the top shaft to match the width of the cut idler gear.
I lose a bit more rotating mass and gain just a bit more acceleration and RPM.
05-20-2014, 03:52 AM
*IDEA*
I noticed when installing my motor today in my build, there is a small gap underneath it once tightened down. The chassis would be a great heatsink! I'm sure someone can tool a piece of aluminum to fit between and transfer some of the heat to the chassis to help keep temps down. Putting a "curve" to hug the motor would keep it from moving around.
Please remember this post to whomever makes this and possible sells it, I want a demo
I noticed when installing my motor today in my build, there is a small gap underneath it once tightened down. The chassis would be a great heatsink! I'm sure someone can tool a piece of aluminum to fit between and transfer some of the heat to the chassis to help keep temps down. Putting a "curve" to hug the motor would keep it from moving around.
Please remember this post to whomever makes this and possible sells it, I want a demo
05-20-2014, 05:50 AM
Tech Regular
You don't "need" the tower. You can run the RM tower but must remove the limiters from the front shocks. The RM tower outer hole is the same as the middle on the MM but the RM tower hole location if taller by 1.5 mm. Or you can unscrew the eye of the shock 1 1/2 turns.
05-20-2014, 05:56 AM
Guys,
You don't "need" the tower. You can run the RM tower but must remove the limiters from the front shocks. The RM tower outer hole is the same as the middle on the MM but the RM tower hole location if taller by 1.5 mm. Or you can unscrew the eye of the shock 1 1/2 turns.
You don't "need" the tower. You can run the RM tower but must remove the limiters from the front shocks. The RM tower outer hole is the same as the middle on the MM but the RM tower hole location if taller by 1.5 mm. Or you can unscrew the eye of the shock 1 1/2 turns.
05-20-2014, 06:03 AM
Tech Regular
05-20-2014, 08:08 AM
Guys,
You don't "need" the tower. You can run the RM tower but must remove the limiters from the front shocks. The RM tower outer hole is the same as the middle on the MM but the RM tower hole location if taller by 1.5 mm. Or you can unscrew the eye of the shock 1 1/2 turns.
You don't "need" the tower. You can run the RM tower but must remove the limiters from the front shocks. The RM tower outer hole is the same as the middle on the MM but the RM tower hole location if taller by 1.5 mm. Or you can unscrew the eye of the shock 1 1/2 turns.
plus 1
Great tips ....
05-20-2014, 09:26 AM
05-20-2014, 09:29 AM
Has anybody changed from a RB6 to B5M and can comment on the difference for better or worse.
05-20-2014, 10:03 AM
It would be best to run the parts that were intended to be ran together...together. I get that if your in a pinch but the M tower should be ran with gullwings.
05-20-2014, 10:12 AM
05-20-2014, 10:13 AM
Tech Regular
