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Old 12-18-2014, 11:34 PM   #9841
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I just built my B5M and have to say I am disappointed in the design of the suspension. Tuning droop with spacers under the shock pistons?!?! Come on. Looking it over, it would have been so easy for them to put droop screws in the back A arms. The chassis is could have had ears coming out like on the RC8.2e and wouldn't have cost them a penny. The front is a little trickier but with a little design work they could have incorporated the ears in the front hinge pin mount. It really is disappointing. Let’s face it, spacers under the shock piston is a very amateur design. I would rather turn a screw to adjust droop instead of tearing apart a set of shocks in between rounds. That is assuming you have time to do that. With droop being such an important tuning tool, I would think Associated would have made it better for their customers. Don’t get me wrong, I like the car in general, but with just a little effort, it could have been really nice.
Shock limiters are superior to droop screws in an off-road vehicle, even though it would seem counter-intutive. In an offroad car, as dirt runs through the car (even little bits)... the droop screws slowly but surely start to dig into the chassis, and your droop actually changes as you run. When I ran the DEX, I found the droop screw system to be flat out terrible. It was OK to find a droop setting that worked, but then it was always better to pull the screws out, and replace them with shocker limiters.
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Old 12-19-2014, 01:03 AM   #9842
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i tried ceramic trust balls last week and it felt like there were rocks in my diff, went back to the steel balls and the diff feels like glass.
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Old 12-19-2014, 01:15 AM   #9843
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Building my first Off Road in 15 years.
Everything going smooth so far...
I was wondering does anyone make a diff Thrust Ball Assembly w carbide balls for the B5M?
Really do need to improve what comes in the box.
Thanks


Actually found one...........
Schelle Racing Innovations
like this or like this?
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Old 12-19-2014, 09:54 AM   #9844
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Lol, the only upgrades I have done are ft turn buckles and longer ball studs in the plastic rear hubs so I could use a washer on the plastic side and a locknut on the metal side.
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Old 12-19-2014, 09:55 AM   #9845
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The box stock ball diff assembly is super smooth when built and broken in correctly...what did u not like about it?
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Old 12-19-2014, 10:52 AM   #9846
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Are the aftermarket parts (Associated or not) worth the money or are they just "bling". Like rear ball mount, hinge pin brace etc?

Or should I just get a good slipper and run the stock build?

Just wondering if there is any advantage to the aftermarket parts besides look?
The rear ballstud mount is a must IMO.
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Old 12-19-2014, 11:27 AM   #9847
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Droop screws are not ideal either--their setting drifts and being so close to the chassis, they're not very much of a hard stop compared to limiting the shock stroke. You'll find that the pros run limiters and unscrew the eyelets even in 1/8 scale racing now days and many times throw those droop screws out.

The proper way to adjust droop on these cars is not to rebuild the shocks, but run the limiters that allow you to adjust the shock eyelets (screw in vs out) to get the droop you want. This is how it is done on most 1/10 scale cars, and certainly every platform that currently holds a world title.

For example, run 1 limiter in all shocks and you can easily reach all shock droop settings with the eyelets. Popping a shock off and unscrewing the l eyelet is super simple and a very hard stop for the suspension.

Wayne
That is good input Wayne. Thanks. I will try to get the shock spacers set up so I have enough adjustment with the eyelet.
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Old 12-19-2014, 12:58 PM   #9848
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If I bought all the aluminum and titanium upgrades for the buggy how much weight am I saving? Has anybody done this yet? I would like to bring the weight down to the minimum allowed.
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Old 12-19-2014, 01:03 PM   #9849
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If I bought all the aluminum and titanium upgrades for the buggy how much weight am I saving? Has anybody done this yet? I would like to bring the weight down to the minimum allowed.
you can knock 100-200 grams off the car
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Old 12-19-2014, 01:19 PM   #9850
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Second question from part one is the minimum weight 1500grams
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Old 12-19-2014, 01:27 PM   #9851
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Alloy upgrades over plastic add weight.
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Old 12-19-2014, 01:36 PM   #9852
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What are you guys doing to drop weight?
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Old 12-19-2014, 01:52 PM   #9853
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What are you guys doing to drop weight?
Diet and exercise...
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Old 12-19-2014, 02:10 PM   #9854
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What are you guys doing to drop weight?
cut gears, machined motor plate, pucks, turnbuckles, screws, and X-Factory carbon chassis. From what I have seen. I did all that but not the chassis, yet.
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Old 12-19-2014, 02:16 PM   #9855
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Diet and exercise...
+1 hahahahaha!
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