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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 12-09-2014, 02:40 PM   #9571
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Hi guys,

I just wanted to share a pic or two of my B5M.
Currently it's run indoor on carpet, since it's freezing cold here in Germany...
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Old 12-09-2014, 02:47 PM   #9572
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New Ti screws from AE (Rivkin's B5M)? Sure don't look like the pics on the website.

Maybe JC Ti screws?



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Old 12-09-2014, 06:17 PM   #9573
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The effect they are going for wont show up on corner scales. It's more of a polar moment of inertia type of thing.
A G/inertia meter could pick that up easily. Just need a control first, and then eliminate all variables.
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Old 12-11-2014, 06:51 AM   #9574
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Has anybody used the X Factory Carbon chassis on the buggy for Stock and Modified and how is it? Is it worth it? I am looking for ways to get better traction front and rear. On some of the tracks I have push and rear slide on accelleration out of the corners. Just looking for solutions.

Thanks Chris
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Old 12-11-2014, 06:54 AM   #9575
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Has anybody used the X Factory Carbon chassis on the buggy for Stock and Modified and how is it? Is it worth it? I am looking for ways to get better traction front and rear. On some of the tracks I have push and rear slide on accelleration out of the corners. Just looking for solutions.

Thanks Chris
There's so many other small things setup wise you can do to eliminate your issues. That carbon chassis is supposed to be super light which is good for 17.5. I would recommend reading the manual and changing your setup to suite the track conditions. It really sounds like a tire issue.
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Old 12-11-2014, 07:26 AM   #9576
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Originally Posted by bigcracing View Post
Has anybody used the X Factory Carbon chassis on the buggy for Stock and Modified and how is it? Is it worth it? I am looking for ways to get better traction front and rear. On some of the tracks I have push and rear slide on accelleration out of the corners. Just looking for solutions.

Thanks Chris
Easiest things to check.. and they are free! Radio settings. End points should be maxed when setting up esc, expos/arc at linear. It seems a great number of people have problems operating an r/c car because the radio is so skewed that they truly have little throttle control. Next would be Slipper settings, diff settings. Beyond that, start with Tires/Inserts. Shock spring/positioning... while you're checking that make sure the arms move freely (wheels off). next would be oil. You might be surprised out a blown out or low oil shock can screw things up
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Old 12-11-2014, 07:29 AM   #9577
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Hi guys,

I just wanted to share a pic or two of my B5M.
Currently it's run indoor on carpet, since it's freezing cold here in Germany...
Gotta put my sunglasses on them white wires are too bright!
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Old 12-11-2014, 07:48 AM   #9578
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New Ti screws from AE (Rivkin's B5M)? Sure don't look like the pics on the website.

Maybe JC Ti screws?
I think they're the Torx screw heads on the transmission and braces and ti screws everywhere else.
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Old 12-11-2014, 07:55 AM   #9579
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I think they're the Torx screw heads on the transmission and braces and ti screws everywhere else.
that is just some special stuff BK did for Rivkin. If you ever saw BK's car up close, you would crap yourself at the small custom details. I held he Worlds Centro in my hands, and it was just so freaking pretty. So many small details.
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Old 12-11-2014, 08:41 AM   #9580
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Easiest things to check.. and they are free! Radio settings. End points should be maxed when setting up esc, expos/arc at linear. It seems a great number of people have problems operating an r/c car because the radio is so skewed that they truly have little throttle control. Next would be Slipper settings, diff settings. Beyond that, start with Tires/Inserts. Shock spring/positioning... while you're checking that make sure the arms move freely (wheels off). next would be oil. You might be surprised out a blown out or low oil shock can screw things up
^^^^ +++++++20!

The carbon chassis's main purpose is to lighten the car, which would actually make your traction problems worse. I would start with fresh shocks first. I rebuilt my shocks the last time I raced and it made a world of difference just by putting in new oil. Play with your set up a bit. Make one change at a time. Going to a lighter spring on the rear, or laying the shocks down on the rear will give you more rear bite out of the corners, but it'll cause it to push more too. Remember, everything is give and take.
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Old 12-11-2014, 09:18 AM   #9581
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^^^^ +++++++20!

The carbon chassis's main purpose is to lighten the car, which would actually make your traction problems worse. I would start with fresh shocks first. I rebuilt my shocks the last time I raced and it made a world of difference just by putting in new oil. Play with your set up a bit. Make one change at a time. Going to a lighter spring on the rear, or laying the shocks down on the rear will give you more rear bite out of the corners, but it'll cause it to push more too. Remember, everything is give and take.
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Old 12-11-2014, 09:28 AM   #9582
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those screws in the car look similar to the losi Ti screws
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Old 12-11-2014, 10:25 AM   #9583
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I'm building my kit and I've run into an issue... Spur side CVA where it goes into the diff slots isn't going in all the way and is restricting the CVA motion and messes with everything. Is that white cab supposed to sit father in than half way or did I miss something? I tightened down the diff bolt to snug then backed out a bit, not much but a bit. Any help?
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Old 12-11-2014, 10:28 AM   #9584
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I'm building my kit and I've run into an issue... Spur side CVA where it goes into the diff slots isn't going in all the way and is restricting the CVA motion and messes with everything. Is that white cab supposed to sit father in than half way or did I miss something? I tightened down the diff bolt to snug then backed out a bit, not much but a bit. Any help?
Make sure you put the screw in the correct side when building the diff. There is only one correct way to do it and it sounds like you have it swapped.
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Old 12-11-2014, 10:34 AM   #9585
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin View Post
I'm building my kit and I've run into an issue... Spur side CVA where it goes into the diff slots isn't going in all the way and is restricting the CVA motion and messes with everything. Is that white cab supposed to sit father in than half way or did I miss something? I tightened down the diff bolt to snug then backed out a bit, not much but a bit. Any help?
In addition to the above post, check your camber setting because if you have excessive amount of negative camber it could cause the dog bone to bottom out against the plastic diff pieces.
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