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Old 12-01-2014, 03:52 PM   #9421
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Out of curiosity why are u going thru so Manu chass protectors? I run the xfactory carbon fiber chassis so it's more important to have one. Carbon fiber wears faster. I still get at least 1 season or maybe 2 out of them.

The Only portion that seams to wear fast is the tail piece. So I make a cut there and replace just the tail piece when it's worn out. I just buy generic sized chassis protectors so I have some left over. I actually get my chassis protectors from SOR Graphics. They are extremely durable compared to a lot of why's out there. I'm sure other companies make compatible products. I just haven't seen them.

I don't think the chassis protectors are needed near as much with the aluminum chassis. The aluminum holds up well. I don't use a chassis protector on my Losi 22-4 and it still looka good for how many times I have ended up rail sliding the pipes when I miscalculated a jump.
My local track has a lot of rocks in their dirt. Scratches up the alu chassis pretty good/quick.

Also, I know for myself, I go through chassis protectors not from use, but from maintenance on the car, having to get to screws and such. I won't cut holes in the protector for the screws. I will usually just replace the protector when I have to get to screws. I'm a little picky when it comes to my cars though.

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Old 12-01-2014, 03:55 PM   #9422
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Is there anything else people are changing when doing the slipper eliminate? Drive it differently? Is it harder on the car?

I plan on moving the battery forward in the car, esc behind. A, lighter. Less length of the 13 gauge wire. B, get the car to rotate and have more mid corner rotation vs. Feeling stuck. C, if I do get a slipper eliminator, less ease of the front wheels coming up...at least, in theory.

Car currently weighs 1549 grams. So 49 grams to go. Already have the light top shaft, mip puck setup, ti front axles. Lightened Motor plate.
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Old 12-01-2014, 07:51 PM   #9423
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Yeah, I only use it to keep the chassis nice. But you are correct, on damn clay, on the rear tail plate takes abuse. All you really need is a tail piece to cover 90% of the dmg. That link that capt linked might work great for making tail pieces.
So really all that is needed is a nice thin rear skid plate? Hmmm....

I wonder if these guys could make something up to fit?
http://www.deracing.net/store/index....ory&path=25_28
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Old 12-01-2014, 08:51 PM   #9424
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So really all that is needed is a nice thin rear skid plate? Hmmm....

I wonder if these guys could make something up to fit?
http://www.deracing.net/store/index....ory&path=25_28
maybe, but you could get the JC clear chassis tape and make about 20 rear cover pieces, lol.
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Old 12-01-2014, 10:13 PM   #9425
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It has to do with the crush sleeve in between the two bearings in the hub being out of tolerance. Solution is place (1) .20mm shim along with crush tube. This will give the additional support the bearings need when you tighten down the wheel.

I tried adding a spacer and still the same result. Will contact AE and see if a running change has been made on the crush tube and order new bearings.

Thanks for all the input.
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Old 12-01-2014, 10:53 PM   #9426
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I tried adding a spacer and still the same result. Will contact AE and see if a running change has been made on the crush tube and order new bearings.

Thanks for all the input.
To be honest i think the kit bearings a just a hair sub par. As soon as i put schelle bearings in my cars all the sudden no more bearing issues but with the same hubs and steering blocks.
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Old 12-02-2014, 05:17 AM   #9427
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To be honest i think the kit bearings a just a hair sub par. As soon as i put schelle bearings in my cars all the sudden no more bearing issues but with the same hubs and steering blocks.
I tried after market bearing also...same result. the axle is not aligned correctly in the bearings.
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Old 12-02-2014, 05:46 AM   #9428
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I must say I'm amazed how differently my B5RM and my B5M went together.

For my rear motor car, I didn't like the idea of crushing the ball cups to make them fit nicely. So I found an older Ti ball stud, put some tooth paste on it and chucked it in my dremel and lapped each ball cup until they were perfect...my B5M ball cups are spot on without any lapping needed.
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Old 12-02-2014, 06:00 AM   #9429
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Off topic a bit, but is there aftermarket companies that make aluminum shock collars for these cars in something other then Blue? Looking for black or purple..
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Old 12-02-2014, 07:38 AM   #9430
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Off topic a bit, but is there aftermarket companies that make aluminum shock collars for these cars in something other then Blue? Looking for black or purple..
Find someone to anodize...
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Old 12-02-2014, 11:35 AM   #9431
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Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
So really all that is needed is a nice thin rear skid plate? Hmmm....

I wonder if these guys could make something up to fit?
http://www.deracing.net/store/index....ory&path=25_28
T-bone already has a skid plate:
http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-A-M/A...Mid-p1431.html
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Old 12-02-2014, 01:49 PM   #9432
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Looking for gearing suggestions for a B5m with a tekin rs gen2 esc and tekin gen2 motor. running 17.5 blink mode on a smaller indoor track. right now have about 25 timing on the motor.
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Old 12-02-2014, 02:04 PM   #9433
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Looking for gearing suggestions for a B5m with a tekin rs gen2 esc and tekin gen2 motor. running 17.5 blink mode on a smaller indoor track. right now have about 25 timing on the motor.
69/32 or taller pinion if you need more top end. timing seems about right but each motor seems to have its own sweet spot. I run 20-25 on my r1 wurks motor fyi.
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Old 12-02-2014, 02:17 PM   #9434
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Looking for gearing suggestions for a B5m with a tekin rs gen2 esc and tekin gen2 motor. running 17.5 blink mode on a smaller indoor track. right now have about 25 timing on the motor.
I don't know a whole lot about timing but shouldn't you have it at stock, find what gearing you want to use then check the temps and decide how much timing you need from there on?
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Old 12-02-2014, 02:21 PM   #9435
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I must say I'm amazed how differently my B5RM and my B5M went together.

For my rear motor car, I didn't like the idea of crushing the ball cups to make them fit nicely. So I found an older Ti ball stud, put some tooth paste on it and chucked it in my dremel and lapped each ball cup until they were perfect...my B5M ball cups are spot on without any lapping needed.
All my b5m ball cups were way to tight, a lot of people had an issuer with them so that's surprising
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