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Old 12-01-2014, 12:04 PM   #9406
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You're not alone on this, the bearings do wear out faster than normal for some reason. I though gluing the inserts into the C-hub would fix it, but they still get gritty fast.
Strange. I have been running my B5m probably 10 packs a week for the last 3 or 4 months.... bearings feel as free today as they did the day I built the kit. Swap them out for a $1 protek bearing. Might have been a bad batch or something.
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Old 12-01-2014, 12:10 PM   #9407
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Strange. I have been running my B5m probably 10 packs a week for the last 3 or 4 months.... bearings feel as free today as they did the day I built the kit. Swap them out for a $1 protek bearing. Might have been a bad batch or something.
My opinion is that some of the inserts are just off from being perfectly straight by a little bit and it puts stress on the inside of the bearing also if you are running the axles and front hexes I have noticed if you tighten your front wheels to much it pushes the hex up against the bearing and it feels gritty and has a lot of drag. I am actually going back to the stock axles bc I am tired of pulling the hexes away from the bearings.
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Old 12-01-2014, 01:05 PM   #9408
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It has to do with the crush sleeve in between the two bearings in the hub being out of tolerance. Solution is place (1) .20mm shim along with crush tube. This will give the additional support the bearings need when you tighten down the wheel.
didnt they make a running change to "fix" the crush tube tolerance? I measured my crush tubes at 2.08mm.
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Old 12-01-2014, 01:29 PM   #9409
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Wildcat will you please explain why you find the "inline" setup harder to drive?
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Old 12-01-2014, 01:32 PM   #9410
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didnt they make a running change to "fix" the crush tube tolerance? I measured my crush tubes at 2.08mm.
I just got some replacements, I'll measure both and see..
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Old 12-01-2014, 01:34 PM   #9411
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For a while I have been running MM locally and thought i would try out RM out for nostalgia. Well, I didnt like it for a few reasons. This weekend my kid and I were practicing and she was driving her tlr22 RM. I have been trying for a while to get her to switch to AE. I saw one of the other kids practicing and she look really good driving her new MM B5. So I called my daughter to the stand and asked her what her lap times have been. She said her fast was a 30, the rest of her laps were anywhere from 34-38. I told her to try my B5M. She didnt want to and complained that my M12 was too heavy. But she did it anyway, because "I said so" After a few laps of getting used to the car she was nocking down 5+ 25 to 26 second laps. I was coaching her on what line to drive and giving her a few pointers. Her fastest was a 25 flat. I was really impressed as she looked much better. After her 22 was charged up, I had her go back out and try again to do some 25 second laps. She came back and said her fastest was a 29 second lap. So I figured the first pack she ran with my car was beginners luck. So I sent her back out to drive my car again, while I marshaled for her. She was crashing a bunch and driving terrible lines, thus running 32 second laps. Then she started to reel the car in, and I about shit myself when I heard the lap timer call out 23.4. I thought at first it was another car, but no other cars were near the loop. Then I heard a bunch of 24's and 25's. Overall, she just looked better withe MM car. She jumped flatter, cornered smoother and drove better lines. After that, she was begging me for a B5M. For perspective, my best was a 21.4 on this layout that day. So her 23 second lap had me all smiles. This layout is very easy to lose time on. Even without crashing you can easily lose 2-3 seconds my missing your marks by a little bit.
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Old 12-01-2014, 01:36 PM   #9412
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Wildcat will you please explain why you find the "inline" setup harder to drive?
It is just more "twitchy"/more responsive. I dont like cars that are overly sensitive to steering inputs. So for me anyway, the inline battery configuration is a no go. tHE SHORTY SIDEWAYS AND THE ELECTRONICS INLINE HAVE GIVEN ME MY BEST RESULTS. fing caps lock. owned by the keyboard.
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Old 12-01-2014, 01:42 PM   #9413
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Originally Posted by Boostinswifty38 View Post
Those running in line, Battery back esc front, or battery forward, esc behind? I run astro indoors exclusively. So lots of grip. Sweeping corners I could see battery forward giving more steering on power being helpful. But, not sure how buggy would fly mid jump. 17.5 stock class. Also looking at ways to drop 40 grams.
I run esc back under the brace, battery forward. I found that running inline this way kept the chassis flat in corners, was very predictable in corners and had fantastic steering. I run on a med/high traction indoor track, traction is fairly consistent. Just kind of depends on the night. I felt the inline set up kept the body from rolling excessively, I used the analogy of the car "stepping in a hole" previously. Inline keeps the car flat in air also, jumps/lands with ease.

As far as ways to drop some weight, I have used the following

Things that improve function and drop weight.
Ti turnbuckles
Slipper eliminator. I use ceramic diff balls, no drop in how long the diff has lasted so far without a slipper (17.5 is easier on internals)
MIP pucks system
Alum topshaft

Things that are cool and drop weight
Lunsford Ti screws. Spendy but amazing quality. Look dope.
Lunsford Ti Axles. Again, amazing quality.

Things most people do not think about that lose grams
Amount of paint on your body. If you are looking for bare minimum, mind how much paint you apply when painting
Chassis protector weighs approx. 14 grams

My car weighs in at 1520-30g depending on tires used. I run a cheap HK 17.5 and cheap HK batteries, car is fast. No problems with being outmotored, car is light.
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:02 PM   #9414
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Originally Posted by imajerky View Post
I run esc back under the brace, battery forward. I found that running inline this way kept the chassis flat in corners, was very predictable in corners and had fantastic steering. I run on a med/high traction indoor track, traction is fairly consistent. Just kind of depends on the night. I felt the inline set up kept the body from rolling excessively, I used the analogy of the car "stepping in a hole" previously. Inline keeps the car flat in air also, jumps/lands with ease.

As far as ways to drop some weight, I have used the following

Things that improve function and drop weight.
Ti turnbuckles
Slipper eliminator. I use ceramic diff balls, no drop in how long the diff has lasted so far without a slipper (17.5 is easier on internals)
MIP pucks system
Alum topshaft

Things that are cool and drop weight
Lunsford Ti screws. Spendy but amazing quality. Look dope.
Lunsford Ti Axles. Again, amazing quality.

Things most people do not think about that lose grams
Amount of paint on your body. If you are looking for bare minimum, mind how much paint you apply when painting
Chassis protector weighs approx. 14 grams

My car weighs in at 1520-30g depending on tires used. I run a cheap HK 17.5 and cheap HK batteries, car is fast. No problems with being outmotored, car is light.
I have been going back and forth on the chassis protector. I pulled mine off last night to do some work on the car. The I spent 20 minutes with goo gone trying to get the adhesive off. I tossed my used chassis protector on the scale an it weighted 18 grams. So far I have replaced 3 chassis protectors for a total cost of $20ish. I could almost buy a new chassis on ebay at this point. Plus the clay does not stick to the chassis like it does the chassis protector. I am 1515 grams without the chassis protector and clay tires.
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:38 PM   #9415
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I have been going back and forth on the chassis protector. I pulled mine off last night to do some work on the car. The I spent 20 minutes with goo gone trying to get the adhesive off. I tossed my used chassis protector on the scale an it weighted 18 grams. So far I have replaced 3 chassis protectors for a total cost of $20ish. I could almost buy a new chassis on ebay at this point. Plus the clay does not stick to the chassis like it does the chassis protector. I am 1515 grams without the chassis protector and clay tires.
Stop paying for chassis protectors, which will break the bank. Use what I use!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Scotchrap...item566c21cb7e

(this is the 10mil thick tape.. im 90% sure im running the 10mil, and not the 20mil... but im not 100% positive. I can look later. 10mil = 1/4mm, 20mil = 1/2mm).

This roll has lasted me YEARS. You simply lay it out along the chassis, keep it centered, and cut it to fit the length of the car (clean chassis with alcohol first). Then simply trim to match the shape/edges of the chassis with an exacto. It resticks countless times (never seems to lose its sticky qualities), and leaves no residue. I change mine out every month or two, and cut a new piece. I think I got my roll in 2011 and it still looks 90% full.
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:41 PM   #9416
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Stop paying for chassis protectors, which will break the bank. Use what I use!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Scotchrap...item566c21cb7e

(this is the 10mil thick tape.. im 90% sure im running the 10mil, and not the 20mil... but im not 100% positive. I can look later).

This roll has lasted me YEARS. You simply lay it out and cut it to fit the length of the car, and you stick it down (clean with alcohol first). Then simply trim to match the chassis with an exacto. It resticks countless times (never seems to lose its sticky qualities), and leaves no residue. I change mine out every month or two, and cut a new piece. I think I got my roll in 2011 and it still looks 90% full.
How much weight does it add? Is it lighter?
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:46 PM   #9417
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How much weight does it add? Is it lighter?
Is it lighter than a chassis protector? Doubt it... My car is 1519 grams with the black tape protector on. I need to add weight, myself... so for me, it's a non-issue. Might be slightly heavier than a chassis protector.. maybe a gram or two?
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:49 PM   #9418
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My bearings in the right front hub exploded after 3 weeks of running, I saw my wheel come off so I figures the nut came off haha nope, the nut was still on attached to the axel and when I took apart I found the out bearing race still in the hubs.. It was interesting
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Old 12-01-2014, 03:16 PM   #9419
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I have been going back and forth on the chassis protector. I pulled mine off last night to do some work on the car. The I spent 20 minutes with goo gone trying to get the adhesive off. I tossed my used chassis protector on the scale an it weighted 18 grams. So far I have replaced 3 chassis protectors for a total cost of $20ish. I could almost buy a new chassis on ebay at this point. Plus the clay does not stick to the chassis like it does the chassis protector. I am 1515 grams without the chassis protector and clay tires.

Out of curiosity why are u going thru so Manu chass protectors? I run the xfactory carbon fiber chassis so it's more important to have one. Carbon fiber wears faster. I still get at least 1 season or maybe 2 out of them.

The Only portion that seams to wear fast is the tail piece. So I make a cut there and replace just the tail piece when it's worn out. I just buy generic sized chassis protectors so I have some left over. I actually get my chassis protectors from SOR Graphics. They are extremely durable compared to a lot of why's out there. I'm sure other companies make compatible products. I just haven't seen them.

I don't think the chassis protectors are needed near as much with the aluminum chassis. The aluminum holds up well. I don't use a chassis protector on my Losi 22-4 and it still looka good for how many times I have ended up rail sliding the pipes when I miscalculated a jump.
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Old 12-01-2014, 03:47 PM   #9420
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Out of curiosity why are u going thru so Manu chass protectors? I run the xfactory carbon fiber chassis so it's more important to have one. Carbon fiber wears faster. I still get at least 1 season or maybe 2 out of them.

The Only portion that seams to wear fast is the tail piece. So I make a cut there and replace just the tail piece when it's worn out. I just buy generic sized chassis protectors so I have some left over. I actually get my chassis protectors from SOR Graphics. They are extremely durable compared to a lot of why's out there. I'm sure other companies make compatible products. I just haven't seen them.

I don't think the chassis protectors are needed near as much with the aluminum chassis. The aluminum holds up well. I don't use a chassis protector on my Losi 22-4 and it still looka good for how many times I have ended up rail sliding the pipes when I miscalculated a jump.
Yeah, I only use it to keep the chassis nice. But you are correct, on damn clay, on the rear tail plate takes abuse. All you really need is a tail piece to cover 90% of the dmg. That link that capt linked might work great for making tail pieces.
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