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Old 11-23-2014, 05:52 AM   #9256
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Originally Posted by Nurcdad View Post
Hello anyone reading this, just built my buggy this week, first 2wd buggy, I am stock set up and ran the first time on an indoor high bite clay track, ran pretty good, I have 2 questions for now, my slipper does not seem to function well, when i run the nut flush with shaft, diff barks, loosen it 1 turn out still not slipping, so I tore in down last night, diff and slipper, cleaned diff and lubed, seems to turn smooth with resistance, slipper has no signs of wear at all, put it back together and same thing, I have to back the nut off so loose i can turn by hand and then it slips any tighter diff bark? Second the rear end seems to slide out letting off throttle as long as i feather it seems more consistant, almost feels like high drag brake but I have none, is this a diff problem causing these problems? Ok a 3rd question since I'm here I changed my shock oil also, same weight, used same stock procedure, when i checked my ride height 24mm I had to crank the collars down about 8 turns compared to when I built it to get it right, shocks are smooth, no air that i see or fell whats up confused?
your diff is to loose, you want to properly break it in. look up on youtube "ball diffn breakin"
the bark is cause your diff is slipping, so once you get your diff tight you can tighting your slipper clockwise and then hold both rear wheels and the slipper and blip the throttle it should not bark and the wheels should come off the ground, if it doesnt come up tighten the slipper untill its popping the wheels off the ground a couple inches
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Last edited by thebombster; 11-23-2014 at 06:47 AM.
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:51 AM   #9257
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your diff is to loose, dont worry about the slipper slipping at all, you want to properly break it in. look up on youtube "ball diffn breakin"
the bark is cause your diff is slipping, so once you get your diff tight you can tighting your slipper clockwise and then hold both rear wheels and the slipper and blip the throttle it should not bark and the wheels should come off the ground, if it doesnt come up tighten the slipper untill its popping the wheels off the ground a couple inches
That is exactly what i did broke it in drill method and table top one wheel at a time a couple of mins each side, tighening each time a bit until I reach 1/2 turn lazy spin on the wheel t-nut flush like in manual right now i have it at fully compressed backed off 1/8 turn, wheels come off the ground fine but slipper is far from the nut flush starting point
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Old 11-23-2014, 07:19 AM   #9258
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That is exactly what i did broke it in drill method and table top one wheel at a time a couple of mins each side, tighening each time a bit until I reach 1/2 turn lazy spin on the wheel t-nut flush like in manual right now i have it at fully compressed backed off 1/8 turn, wheels come off the ground fine but slipper is far from the nut flush starting point
If your diff is fine, double check slipper with instructions that all parts are seated correctly and tighten nut down to flush. Make sure to compress the spring with some pliers before install.
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Old 11-23-2014, 07:32 AM   #9259
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That is exactly what i did broke it in drill method and table top one wheel at a time a couple of mins each side, tighening each time a bit until I reach 1/2 turn lazy spin on the wheel t-nut flush like in manual right now i have it at fully compressed backed off 1/8 turn, wheels come off the ground fine but slipper is far from the nut flush starting point
I've never understood how people set their diffs with the "flick" method as some have called it How do you even know how hard to spin the tire? Is there some high tech calibrating process you use on your hand before giving her a spin.. I've tried "flicking" on my cars with diffs set where I want them and just seem to get widely varying, inconsistent results on the whole "1/2 turn of the tire".

Just not a method I would suggest to someone new to building ball diffs.

If it works for some of you, great. I personally don't get it.
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Old 11-23-2014, 07:43 AM   #9260
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I've never understood how people set their diffs with the "flick" method as some have called it How do you even know how hard to spin the tire? Is there some high tech calibrating process you use on your hand before giving her a spin.. I've tried "flicking" on my cars with diffs set where I want them and just seem to get widely varying, inconsistent results on the whole "1/2 turn of the tire".

Just not a method I would suggest to someone new to building ball diffs.

If it works for some of you, great. I personally don't get it.
+1 on the lazy spin to many variables not consistent at all
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Old 11-23-2014, 07:59 AM   #9261
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I've never understood how people set their diffs with the "flick" method as some have called it How do you even know how hard to spin the tire? Is there some high tech calibrating process you use on your hand before giving her a spin.. I've tried "flicking" on my cars with diffs set where I want them and just seem to get widely varying, inconsistent results on the whole "1/2 turn of the tire".

Just not a method I would suggest to someone new to building ball diffs.

If it works for some of you, great. I personally don't get it.
I totally agree with you but this was my first diff build so i did what i learned from videos, but yeah seemed quite unprecise to me also
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:03 AM   #9262
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If your diff is fine, double check slipper with instructions that all parts are seated correctly and tighten nut down to flush. Make sure to compress the spring with some pliers before install.
Slipper is installed fine everything seated in its place, but i did not compress The spring so i"lll try that thanks, i compressed it on the diff though
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:39 AM   #9263
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
I've never understood how people set their diffs with the "flick" method as some have called it How do you even know how hard to spin the tire? Is there some high tech calibrating process you use on your hand before giving her a spin.. I've tried "flicking" on my cars with diffs set where I want them and just seem to get widely varying, inconsistent results on the whole "1/2 turn of the tire".

Just not a method I would suggest to someone new to building ball diffs.

If it works for some of you, great. I personally don't get it.
Racer,

For reference:

http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2011...ed-tebo-video/

http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2011...yan-cavalieri/
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:47 AM   #9264
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If your diff is fine, double check slipper with instructions that all parts are seated correctly and tighten nut down to flush. Make sure to compress the spring with some pliers before install.
Thanks a lot Cridd compressing the spring did the trick, i really felt the spring break in, sometimes the simplest solutions are overlooked, love driving this buggy now if i can get the rear from kicking out off throttle and gunning it. I got plenty or sterring, no push just some more rear bite needed,Its not missing much to get it dialed out of the box on our track
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Old 11-23-2014, 12:12 PM   #9265
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Guys, I need some help figuring out my buggy. It has been very frustrating at the end of last season and so far this season. It seems the rear never settles down and whenever I get on power it is very loose. The worst part is when I am turning. When I apply the throttle at the apex, the rear breaks loose and I spin.

I have tried different motors and esc's, tried different setups using the mid motor arms/front tower and the rear motor arms/front tower and have taken the whole car apart and rebuilt the thing. I didn't find any bent hinge pins or shock shafts. I have rebuilt the diff, changed the bearings and nothing seems to be helping. I even used my friends set of tires that were hooking up for him and it was slightly better. I'm not sure where to go from here. I am currently using this setup:

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...sJumps_Gay.pdf

It's funny when I first built the kit it was great. I don't know what heppened, but this has been frustrating!
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Old 11-23-2014, 12:34 PM   #9266
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Guys, I need some help figuring out my buggy. It has been very frustrating at the end of last season and so far this season. It seems the rear never settles down and whenever I get on power it is very loose. The worst part is when I am turning. When I apply the throttle at the apex, the rear breaks loose and I spin.

I have tried different motors and esc's, tried different setups using the mid motor arms/front tower and the rear motor arms/front tower and have taken the whole car apart and rebuilt the thing. I didn't find any bent hinge pins or shock shafts. I have rebuilt the diff, changed the bearings and nothing seems to be helping. I even used my friends set of tires that were hooking up for him and it was slightly better. I'm not sure where to go from here. I am currently using this setup:

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...sJumps_Gay.pdf

It's funny when I first built the kit it was great. I don't know what heppened, but this has been frustrating!
First things I would change is going longer on rear link, inside hole on tower, rear hubs all way forward, 27.5wt.on rear oil.

If still needing more after that. Try a stiffer frt spring and smaller spur gear to move the motor farther rearward. Run a sqaure or saddle pack if running mod. Research the oring mods for the rear waterfall.
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Old 11-23-2014, 04:21 PM   #9267
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Default Gearing selection

I'm running my B5M in both stock and mod classes depending on what track I'm at. Kind of struggling with finding the right gearing for both classes. Been doing a lot of reading today and studying a gear ration chart, which brings me to my question. If for example a 81/36 and a 72/32 will both give you a fdr of 5.85, what determines the combination you go with? What would the difference be running each combination on the same motor?
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Old 11-23-2014, 05:00 PM   #9268
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Default Rear Grip Suggestions...

I am curious what your thoughts may be on the following:

My B5M is almost perfect. We run on a medium to lower traction surface indoors. The B5M has been fantastic taking the win last weekend. I would like to obtain just a little more rear grip or forward bite upon corner exit. The car tends to step out a little bit right when you pick up the throttle on exit. Keep in mind again car is really good and this can be managed with throttle, however I was curious what a few of you thing of these options... I will test some later this week as well.

1. Go down in rear spring rate to allow rear to drop faster on throttle currently on white and may try green.
2. Go down in rear shock oil. Currently at 30 may try 27.5 with the 1.6 piston
3. Go down to 0 degrees anti-squat vs current 1 degree
4. Go up in front spring rate as I am currently on green and may go up to white or gray.
5. Move battery back as it is one foam from back position now.

Being car is still rotating off corner would a role center change improve this as well. I am running Schelle Caster Plate in up position with no shims.

Thanks!

JRF
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:05 PM   #9269
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Originally Posted by JFuel11 View Post
I am curious what your thoughts may be on the following:

My B5M is almost perfect. We run on a medium to lower traction surface indoors. The B5M has been fantastic taking the win last weekend. I would like to obtain just a little more rear grip or forward bite upon corner exit. The car tends to step out a little bit right when you pick up the throttle on exit. Keep in mind again car is really good and this can be managed with throttle, however I was curious what a few of you thing of these options... I will test some later this week as well.

1. Go down in rear spring rate to allow rear to drop faster on throttle currently on white and may try green.
2. Go down in rear shock oil. Currently at 30 may try 27.5 with the 1.6 piston
3. Go down to 0 degrees anti-squat vs current 1 degree
4. Go up in front spring rate as I am currently on green and may go up to white or gray.
5. Move battery back as it is one foam from back position now.

Being car is still rotating off corner would a role center change improve this as well. I am running Schelle Caster Plate in up position with no shims.

Thanks!

JRF

I have this same issue and want a cure also
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:13 PM   #9270
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Rear shocks inside inside. 30wt oil with kit 1.6 pistons. 26.65 mm exposed shaft. 3 toe 1 deg anti squat. Battery strap secured with screws or flanged nuts instead of kit thumb screws. Will generate alot more flex. Front droop at 20.5 to 20.75mm white springs 35wt oil. I also like rhe tapered 3x1.4 pistons installed cone down. Standard stroke going up but faster return in down travel. This means fastwr weight tranfer to the rear. You can try these things. But I also feel the plastic rear arm amounts are the best. The brass and alum take away to much natural flex if running on med bite or and track with a layer of dust. Also you can unscrew your rear end an make sure the screws are not torqued. I always x mine up when tighten and will check this and redo most of the main screws on the car at the track about once a day or more depending on the length of time I'm there.
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