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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 11-22-2014, 05:53 AM   #9241
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Nick, I run the Garodisk on the stock slipper for b5m. I set mine on the bench and haven't touched it since. But seeing as how I have only run the care a few times and have just returned to the hobby after a 22 year hiatus, I am not the one to answer. But I am heading to the track in 6 or so hours, I will be experimenting though. Sorry, I know I was no help.
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Old 11-22-2014, 06:33 AM   #9242
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Originally Posted by mackelby View Post
Nick, I run the Garodisk on the stock slipper for b5m. I set mine on the bench and haven't touched it since. But seeing as how I have only run the care a few times and have just returned to the hobby after a 22 year hiatus, I am not the one to answer. But I am heading to the track in 6 or so hours, I will be experimenting though. Sorry, I know I was no help.
No problem, i had no luck bench setting at all. Just cant find he sweet spot.
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Old 11-22-2014, 06:35 AM   #9243
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I'm not new to RC so thanks for all the suggestions but I've tried all radio, esc, motor, basically all electronic stuff. So that is why I came here to ask about the b5m specifically and I'm not here to argue about the purposes of slippers, yes it does help with drivetrain impact as I said as well but it also helps w traction control whether you want to use it that way it is up to you but all that aside, still can't figure out my brakes haha, as I mentioned I'm not running a ball diff, just put a gear diff in, first time using a gear diff in a 2wd, can these be put in backwards and effect brakes?
The gear diff can go in either way and is definitely not the problem with your brakes.
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Old 11-22-2014, 08:37 AM   #9244
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Ran my new (to me) B5M yesterday. It has Cav's national setup on it, with 2x1.6 pistons all around. It was pretty good, but pushed a bit in medium to high speed corners. Should I start with piston swapping? Dropping front oil? I had short pack full forward.

Also, I see the inline configuration on the first page. What is the benefit of this?
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Old 11-22-2014, 09:28 AM   #9245
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Has anyone tried fitting a Spektrum 6070 or 6040 servo in this thing? I understand the low profile servo issue with the servo lead, but the ball stud on the servo arm will hit the case of the servo before it reaches full deflection...

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Old 11-22-2014, 10:20 AM   #9246
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You will need to cut the ball stud stop down even with the thread so then you can thread the ball stud in farther on the arm
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Old 11-22-2014, 11:24 AM   #9247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skeeter36 View Post
Everyone has given great suggestions to fixing your brakes. If none of it works the only other thing it could be is your diff. If it is installed backwards they can loosen up significantly. I know it sounds dumb but apparently it can happen. The diff nut should be on the drivers side of the car
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The thrust bearing hex should be opposite of the spur gear not on the same side
The guy in question is running a gear diff so this doesn't matter BUT...

IT DOES NOT MATTER WHICH WAY YOU INSTALL A BALL DIFF!!
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Old 11-22-2014, 11:36 AM   #9248
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In the manual it states that it is supposed to be oriented so that the hex side is on the passenger side on the b5m. When i asked a an ae rep he stated it is supposed to be installed that way because it can loosen up if the hex is on the motor plate side. I have never had any problems but i guess ae did at some point.
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Old 11-22-2014, 02:22 PM   #9249
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Originally Posted by 3D-Seth View Post
Has anyone tried fitting a Spektrum 6070 or 6040 servo in this thing? I understand the low profile servo issue with the servo lead, but the ball stud on the servo arm will hit the case of the servo before it reaches full deflection...
I'm using a 6070 just had to remove the spacer , I get full deflection left and right
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Old 11-22-2014, 05:58 PM   #9250
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Originally Posted by 3D-Seth View Post
Has anyone tried fitting a Spektrum 6070 or 6040 servo in this thing? I understand the low profile servo issue with the servo lead, but the ball stud on the servo arm will hit the case of the servo before it reaches full deflection...
I Have the 6040 in mine with no clearance issue. It is just!! Clear tho
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Old 11-22-2014, 06:22 PM   #9251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skeeter36 View Post
In the manual it states that it is supposed to be oriented so that the hex side is on the passenger side on the b5m. When i asked a an ae rep he stated it is supposed to be installed that way because it can loosen up if the hex is on the motor plate side. I have never had any problems but i guess ae did at some point.
So does it tighten up on you when installed the "correct" way??
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Old 11-22-2014, 06:28 PM   #9252
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Originally Posted by billdogg View Post
Ran my new (to me) B5M yesterday. It has Cav's national setup on it, with 2x1.6 pistons all around. It was pretty good, but pushed a bit in medium to high speed corners. Should I start with piston swapping? Dropping front oil? I had short pack full forward.

Also, I see the inline configuration on the first page. What is the benefit of this?
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Old 11-22-2014, 06:56 PM   #9253
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Hey guys im sure this was talked about but here is my question this is my first 2wd buggy and was wondering i already have saddle packs has anyone seen a difference performance wise between saddle and shorty
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Old 11-22-2014, 07:35 PM   #9254
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For those of you wanting a little more entry steering, I removed some of the ackerman washers and it was a big change. I ended up with zero ackerman ball stud washers, but it made the car a little twitchy, so I went up on front springs and it was nice. I had black fronts and ended up at white fronts. Just something easy to try. It was pretty huge on my high bite track.
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Old 11-23-2014, 04:31 AM   #9255
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Hello anyone reading this, just built my buggy this week, first 2wd buggy, I am stock set up and ran the first time on an indoor high bite clay track, ran pretty good, I have 2 questions for now, my slipper does not seem to function well, when i run the nut flush with shaft, diff barks, loosen it 1 turn out still not slipping, so I tore in down last night, diff and slipper, cleaned diff and lubed, seems to turn smooth with resistance, slipper has no signs of wear at all, put it back together and same thing, I have to back the nut off so loose i can turn by hand and then it slips any tighter diff bark? Second the rear end seems to slide out letting off throttle as long as i feather it seems more consistant, almost feels like high drag brake but I have none, is this a diff problem causing these problems? Ok a 3rd question since I'm here I changed my shock oil also, same weight, used same stock procedure, when i checked my ride height 24mm I had to crank the collars down about 8 turns compared to when I built it to get it right, shocks are smooth, no air that i see or fell whats up confused?
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