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Old 11-18-2014, 07:54 AM   #9166
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I can feel the difference with the rm parts. I run on high bite indoor moist clay.
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Old 11-18-2014, 09:59 AM   #9167
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I agree with Wildcat, I run on a med/high bite damp clay/dirt mixture and noticed a significant difference when using the RM rear arms. To the guy that talked to the AE rep, 1.5mm can be a significant difference, if you don't believe me make a 1.5 mm change to all of your adjustments and let me know how your car drives. While there are other things you can tune for traction an easy change like using the RM arms combined with other tuning features works very well. Most single changes that you make wont make a huge difference on their own but combined with an entire setup its night and day. There is a reason the majority of b5m users are using the b5rm arms and its not because everyone likes changing things its because it works
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Old 11-18-2014, 11:38 AM   #9168
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I didn't say anyone running them was wrong, just relaying what I was told by factory support when I asked the question. I will probably try it myself, however with the somewhat looser condition of our track, I know the flat front arms did cause a bad push for some of the guys who tried it. I would probably just do the rears to see if there is any improvement. With the addition of weight to the rear of the shock tower, shock positioning and lowering the rear ball stud mounts -2mm, traction has already improved tenfold from out of the box. I should clarify, when I mean traction, I mean corner exit on throttle... forward bite has been good from the start.
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Last edited by heinen81; 11-18-2014 at 12:11 PM.
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Old 11-18-2014, 05:47 PM   #9169
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The rm rear ams is a dramatic change. There isn't another single adjustment that makes that big if a difference in traction.
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Old 11-18-2014, 06:05 PM   #9170
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The track I run on is medium bite at best, I didn't notice much of a difference going to the rear motor rear arms. The car was good with the stock arms too.
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Old 11-18-2014, 06:11 PM   #9171
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Well I guess I do have one small complaint. My front bearings lasted 1/2 of 1 battery pack.
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Old 11-19-2014, 01:52 AM   #9172
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Weak as brakes.

Hoping someone could help me with a very unusual problem.

After installing a new 6.5t motor the other night (indoor carpet) I found that I had minimal braking power. I mean that near the end of the straight away after applying full brakes it would take about about 3-5 meters (9-15ft) to slow down enough to turn the corner. (had a few run-ins with the wall that night)

I have completed the following troubleshooting but still have the same problem.

- Re calibrated esc multiple times
- Reset all data on my TX then re calibrated esc
- Turned brakes EXP up to max
- Replaced lrp fwt esc with brand new novak gt3 esc
- Replaced motor with 8.5t used only a few times
- Replaced sensor cable with new cable
- Tested my TX with my B44.2 which has exact same esc and motor...brakes are LEATHAL as expected.

And finally clutching at straws..

- Tightened slipper all the way
- Loosened slipper all the way

After doing all this I still have very minimal brakes and its driving me crazy. Im about to pull apart my diff as a last resort but I cant imagine that has anything to do with braking power..

Anyway I thought i'd just ask everyone for some advice in in case im missing something obvious.

Thanks v much for your help
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Old 11-19-2014, 09:17 AM   #9173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mackelby View Post
Well I guess I do have one small complaint. My front bearings lasted 1/2 of 1 battery pack.
okay gentlemen I need to replace my front wheel bearing. Any suggestions? Don't need high dollar stuff, just good bearings for a reasonable price. Obviously AE bearings aren't the ones, unless team AE bearings are better.
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Old 11-19-2014, 09:23 AM   #9174
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okay gentlemen I need to replace my front wheel bearing. Any suggestions? Don't need high dollar stuff, just good bearings for a reasonable price. Obviously AE bearings aren't the ones, unless team AE bearings are better.
Avid. $1 each. I would buy a tube of 10 just to have spares.

http://www.avidrc.com/product/8/metr...-bearings.html


or you can get a KIT and have a full set of bearings.

http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=800&kitname=B5M
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Old 11-19-2014, 09:26 AM   #9175
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Thanks Wildcat. Better look and see what else Avid has I might want. Can't stand to pay 8 dollars freight on a 10 dollar purchase.
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Old 11-19-2014, 09:28 AM   #9176
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I tried searching the forum but didn't have any luck finding my answer. Does anyone know the amount of weight savings by going to the Lunsford ball studs over the stock ball studs?
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Old 11-19-2014, 09:34 AM   #9177
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Originally Posted by mackelby View Post
Thanks Wildcat. Better look and see what else Avid has I might want. Can't stand to pay 8 dollars freight on a 10 dollar purchase.
The machined pistons are nice. i like the 1.5x1.1's in the front with machined 1.6s in the rear. Also, the Avid Evo slipper is the BOMB. If you dont have one, I highly recommend it. If you order hits $40, I think shipping is free. Unless you order something big like a chassis or body. The Avid 2.2 wheels are pretty stiff also and hold up much better than most.
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Old 11-19-2014, 09:35 AM   #9178
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Originally Posted by Chris Gierse View Post
I tried searching the forum but didn't have any luck finding my answer. Does anyone know the amount of weight savings by going to the Lunsford ball studs over the stock ball studs?
Not much. I run Ti ball studs, I saved less than 10 grams. It is way more cost effective to get the alum screw kit and Ti turnbuckles IMO. The cheapest way to shave weight is the 3500 mah LP shorty packs. Those save like 50 grams.
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Old 11-19-2014, 09:38 AM   #9179
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Not much. I run Ti ball studs, I saved less than 10 grams. It is way more cost effective to get the alum screw kit and Ti turnbuckles IMO. The cheapest way to shave weight is the 3500 mah LP shorty packs. Those save like 50 grams.
Thanks. Weight savings is really the only benefit I can see to spend the money on something like that.
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Old 11-19-2014, 11:03 AM   #9180
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I'm having some issues with my B5M turning. Seems like it may be lifting up too much in the front (I'm right at 1500mg.)

Do you think getting the brass bulkhead for the front would help with this?
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