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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 11-17-2014, 12:54 PM   #9151
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Hey guys, can anybody help me with a setup that is forgiving for a medium traction clay track? I don't want a really aggressive setup but something that will be a little easier to drive. I'm currently at 32.5 oil, 3x1.4 pistons in front, middle hole on the tower and outside on the arms and 3x1.6 piston with 30wt oil in the rear, inside hole on tower and inside on the rear arms.
Last time at the track I used Mike Gay's setup from RC10.com and liked it a lot. Maybe give it a try?

http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...sJumps_Gay.pdf
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Old 11-17-2014, 03:17 PM   #9152
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Gotta say I'm not impressed with AE's quality control.
Why don't you just contact associated about all the bad parts you received, and have them replace em?
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Old 11-17-2014, 03:20 PM   #9153
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No, all the B5M parts are still on the car.
I would at least try the b5 rear arms on the car with the hubs forward. That should gain you a bunch of traction.
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Old 11-17-2014, 03:26 PM   #9154
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It had been 22 years for me. The speed of the electronics today vrs. 22 years ago is INSANE. The straighter the track the worse I was. I was TERRIBLE! I built my shocks in a vented bladder configuration. Used Serpent bladders. The longest strait away is the farthest from drivers stand and is 90 degrees from stand. I looked as though I was drunk as a skunk. How embarrassing.
Not sure it will help, if your having trouble going down the straights, turn your steering speed down. Fast servos serve a purpose if you can keep them in check. To fast can cause over correction and make it harder to drive.
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Old 11-17-2014, 03:40 PM   #9155
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I would at least try the b5 rear arms on the car with the hubs forward. That should gain you a bunch of traction.
Just the rear motor rear arms would help? I see a lot of people using the rear motor front arms and tower also, would that be too much to jump into everything all at once? I guess I could just try them one at a time to feel each difference piece by piece.
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Old 11-17-2014, 04:20 PM   #9156
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the rear arms give you more traction. The front arms and tower calm the car down.
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Old 11-17-2014, 08:38 PM   #9157
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I fixed the ball cup bindage using the plier trick shown in the youtube video on post #1. Tried polishing the ball studs and spinning the studs in the cup with a dremel, but that only improved the binding marginally. The plier trick seem to have fixed it 100%.

Picture is of the defective outdrive that came with my kit. Outdrive is way too tight and the axle barely fits in it. I can dangle the full tranny from the tight connection. Probably could dangle twice that weight if not more it's so out of tolerance. I know it's the outdrive and not the axle cause that axle works fine with the other outdrive. Tried prying it open a little with a screwdriver but that thing aint budging.

Also had a shock cap that does have a hole for the bleeder screw.

Didn't see anyone else with these issues in the thread, and thought I would share.
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Old 11-17-2014, 08:43 PM   #9158
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I fixed the ball cup bindage using the plier trick shown in the youtube video on post #1. Tried polishing the ball studs and spinning the studs in the cup with a dremel, but that only improved the binding marginally. The plier trick seem to have fixed it 100%.

Picture is of the defective outdrive that came with my kit. Outdrive is way too tight and the axle barely fits in it. I can dangle the full tranny from the tight connection. Probably could dangle twice that weight if not more it's so out of tolerance. I know it's the outdrive and not the axle cause that axle works fine with the other outdrive. Tried prying it open a little with a screwdriver but that thing aint budging.

Also had a shock cap that does have a hole for the bleeder screw.

Didn't see anyone else with these issues in the thread, and thought I would share.
I'd contact AE for the outdrive and shock cap. They should be able to hook you up.
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Old 11-17-2014, 09:07 PM   #9159
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Finished up my build tonight as well as received my body From the talented Chris Haigh.

Last edited by millsj2; 01-02-2015 at 07:47 AM.
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Old 11-17-2014, 09:33 PM   #9160
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Finished up my build tonight as well as received my body From the talented Chris Haigh.

*images removed for brevity*

Overall, it was a very fun build. Ended up going with the 4PLS radio after some good recommendations and got a deal on a nice Orion charger. Now to the track!
If you're gonna flaunt your car, at least give us a body-off pic

Also, are those Schumacher min pin and cut stagger tires?
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Old 11-17-2014, 10:37 PM   #9161
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Honestly for those that are questioning... There is a guy at my local track who is a factory AE driver. His car has no hop ups at all, the only exception being flat front arms and tower. He is extremely fast. It just goes to show that this car performs so well out of the box that you really dont need any of the fancy stuff... but lets face it, we all love to buy it and then brag about how cool our car is. It makes for excellent bench racing LOL.
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Old 11-17-2014, 10:40 PM   #9162
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If you're gonna flaunt your car, at least give us a body-off pic

Also, are those Schumacher min pin and cut stagger tires?
Looks like it, and with gull wing arms I'll bet that thing is very hard to drive. I love the gull wings on clay, they suit my driving style. But gulls on carpet or astro would be interesting LOL
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Old 11-18-2014, 03:23 AM   #9163
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If you're gonna flaunt your car, at least give us a body-off pic

Also, are those Schumacher min pin and cut stagger tires?
Ask and you shall receive



Still waiting on B5 rear/front arms and tower to install. The schumachers are for the carpet track we have in town.

*EDIT: Uploaded a better pic that's not sideways.

Last edited by millsj2; 11-18-2014 at 06:38 AM.
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Old 11-18-2014, 05:07 AM   #9164
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Ask and you shall receive

*image removed for brevity*

Still waiting on B5 rear/front arms and tower to install. The schumachers are for the carpet track we have in town.
Very nice. I'm running prolines wedge^2 and pinpoints this winter on my B5M. Ran the original wedge and pinpoints last year on my B4 and it was phenomenal, so I hope it's more of the same this year

You bring up an interesting point though: what are everyone's thoughts on running B5 rear arms on a B5M on high grip. I've been under the impression that the B5 rear arms are for more traction so if you already have lots of traction, are they really needed?
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Old 11-18-2014, 05:43 AM   #9165
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I went back and forth on this rear versus mid arms on the B5M for quite a while, and got the chance to talk to an Associated Rep at the Spektrum Nationals, and was told this, straight from the source...
the B5 flat front arms and tower WILL make the car corner slightly more consistent, on very high bite clay or carpet/astro tracks. He said even that is debatable on high bite clay, some of their drivers don't even notice a difference on clay. He also said in terms of improving traction on the B5M, the rear arms only move the axle center line ahead 1.5mm, and there are other adjustments available on the model to provide far more traction that switching arms. While he said changing the front and rear arms will not hurt the B5M on clay/dirt surfaces, it is probably more a case of drivers making the change expecting to feel certain things,so the mind makes them think it does. Carpet/astro is a different story he said, there you will notice those changes quite a bit in front end feel and cornering.
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