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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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04-29-2014, 01:37 PM

#9106

Myt3rocks

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Those rear hubs seem strange to me. Less tuning options and in my experience vertical ball studs are much weaker and prone to breaking than horizontal ones. Not really a product I'm interested in. I will be getting a set of the rear hard plastic hubs, but for now I have zero interest in the aluminum ones.

04-29-2014, 01:47 PM

#9107

Buggy kid90

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On the first page of this thread it says people are having this happen I'm not new to mid motors and shimming them I have c4.2 and had to shim the top shaft and the diff because of play are the shims the same as 8th scale clutch shims.

04-29-2014, 01:47 PM

#9108

dan-o

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Search button is your friend.. Type key words b5 rear arm.... Read for hours

04-29-2014, 01:57 PM

#9109

VegasHB

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What's the advantage of using the aluminum hub?

All I envision is broken ball studs and busting out the dremel wheels or buying replacements.

Added unsprung weight as well...

04-29-2014, 02:05 PM

#9110

Wildcat1971

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Quote:

Originally Posted by VegasHB

What's the advantage of using the aluminum hub?

All I envision is broken ball studs and busting out the dremel wheels or buying replacements.

Added unsprung weight as well...

pretty and finer grained adjustments. I have no plans to get them. Everyone was trying to lighten their cars, but now pump alum into their cars, lol. This car is very stout and has walked away from crashes that made me pucker up. Most of the alum parts serve little to no purpose. The suspension holder might be the only nice one as they remove the slop and allow for easier tuning. But if you ALWAYS run 3-2 and dont mind a .5mm shim, then even those are not wonderful. I was going to get the hexes, but honestly, the stock plastic ones have been problem free.

04-29-2014, 02:51 PM

#9111

Jason Turner

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Felt like it brought my car to life

more side and forward bite, sometimes it pushes now though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kurtblastoff

What does running the B5 rear arms on the B5M do for the car?

04-29-2014, 03:15 PM

#9112

Dusttt

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Anyone with one of these have a comparison to the RB6? Is it as good? I just picked one up and had the 6 a while back so I am curious.

04-29-2014, 04:24 PM

#9113

rigor

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Sean Cochran

OK we should have included a slip of paper to clear all this up. Sorry.
This is the way it should be.

The etched 0 faces the shock. This means rear motor it is forward and mid motor it's back.
3mm of ball-stud spacing makes the high position. 1mm is the low. The kit hub has 5 link length options, with the aluminum hub you no longer have the longest/ outer ball position. Be careful about the thread length ball stud you use, if it's too long it will crush the bearing in a couple of positions. 6mm thread is recommended with 3mm spacing.

Excellent thanks!

04-29-2014, 04:42 PM

#9114

Grasschopper

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings

I want to say i heard something about them making a shorter stud...not sure though.

edit: http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91451/

Quote:

Originally Posted by aeRayls

There is a 4mm stud available!

I used the 6mm stud with 1mm washer this weekend. It will bind in one or two of the holes tho.

It's a great part and they are extremely light for alum hubs!

Ahh ok...I looked on AMain and they didn't have them listed. I should have looked on AE. My bad there.

04-29-2014, 05:11 PM

#9115

vr6cj

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason Turner

Felt like it brought my car to life

more side and forward bite, sometimes it pushes now though.

yeah, same here. I actually cured some of the push by moving the hubs back

04-29-2014, 06:25 PM

#9116

kurtblastoff

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason Turner

Felt like it brought my car to life

more side and forward bite, sometimes it pushes now though.

Thank's for the info Jason. I'll give it a try.

04-29-2014, 07:02 PM

#9117

DWill

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Quote:

Originally Posted by lee_double2000

Check team associated website. They have the front towers in stock.

Got one today. SDRC got one in and I grabbed it this afternoon.
I'll be glad when this parts issue is cleared up.

You don't want to break anything on your car; you might be down for a while.

04-29-2014, 07:25 PM

#9118

BillPear

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Sorcerer001

It would've taken less effort to answer the question, and you'd save someone the hassle of having to sift through 200+ pages of this thread. A little bit of civility makes this place a lot more enjoyable.

If anyone is to lazy to use the search button or read through all the pages like many of us have, then the next question will be what turnbuckles work? The people that are to lazy to use the features of the forum make it much less enjoyable for those that can and do. I am fortunate enough to see the AE drivers and engineers on an almost daily basis. I don't need this thread, I am only here to share the information they share with me.

As previously stated life's to short. So I'll stop wasting your time here.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings

Seriously....There is a little search button on the top of this thread, it will only search in this thread. Just type "factory team" and view the responses. You can only answer a question 37 times before it gets old.

Here, i did it for you:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/search.p...rchid=18310695

Thanks Matt.

04-29-2014, 07:51 PM

#9119

vito

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the track told me there are a few issue with the kit what are they?

04-29-2014, 08:10 PM

#9120

bambambennett

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971

So...My cups are just not loosening up. I had kinda hoped they would break in a bit. I tried the squeezing method, but it was a very small improvement. I am thinking about moving to 4.8x3mm studs and cups for most part. Aside from the goofy steering link. Has anyone found a sure fire way to free up these stock cups? Otherwise I think I might try the tlr cups and studs.

I will give away an old school trick here. Listen up guys.

TOOTHPASTE! Put a dab of toothpaste in the ball cup, press the stud into the ball cup, insert stud into a drill(I use my drill press) and spin at a lower speed. This not only polishes the stud, it also wears down high spots in the molded ball cup. disassemble and clean with a Qtip soaked in water. Spritz some silicone spray on the ball cup and reinstall the ball stud. FIXED!