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Old 11-14-2014, 08:34 AM   #9076
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Thanks Krio, I'll be at the same track again tomorrow and will mess with drag brake during practice. When I could get the car to break lose enough to rotate it was fast but couldn't get it consistently to be worth the effort so I just was going neutral and coasting through.
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Old 11-14-2014, 08:45 AM   #9077
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Thanks Krio, I'll be at the same track again tomorrow and will mess with drag brake during practice. When I could get the car to break lose enough to rotate it was fast but couldn't get it consistently to be worth the effort so I just was going neutral and coasting through.
If the car won't rotate enough without breaking the rear tires loose, then some setup changes will be in order. Hopefully drag brakes will help you cut down on your cornering times.
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:10 AM   #9078
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Yeah i think your diff may be a little too snug, gettin your drag brake set properly for your driving style will definitly help your overall lap times
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:56 AM   #9079
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On the diff? When you tighten it do you lock the slippper and hold one wheel and the locked spur and try to rotate the other wheel so it barely will slip the diff or is there a different way to do it?
thanks
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Old 11-14-2014, 10:43 AM   #9080
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On the diff? When you tighten it do you lock the slippper and hold one wheel and the locked spur and try to rotate the other wheel so it barely will slip the diff or is there a different way to do it?
thanks
It's all feel. How I do it is I grab a tire in both hands and give them a quick spin in opposite directions so to not spin the drivetrain. I like the tires to rotate about 1/2-3/4 of a rotation after the spin.
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:19 AM   #9081
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It's all feel. How I do it is I grab a tire in both hands and give them a quick spin in opposite directions so to not spin the drivetrain. I like the tires to rotate about 1/2-3/4 of a rotation after the spin.
Thanks I will try that. U goin to the gobbler race at RCE?
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:29 AM   #9082
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Thanks I will try that. U goin to the gobbler race at RCE?
Absolutely and looking forward to a new layout!
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:30 AM   #9083
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Drag Brake..In rear motor I ran 15-20%. In my MM I'm running 5% and have no desire or need for anymore. I had started with 18% (SP Reventon Pro) and the car would snap loose. As previously stated, car setup will have an obvious affect though.
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:34 AM   #9084
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Never could get used to drag brake... Car would snap loose to much!!
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:39 AM   #9085
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Absolutely and looking forward to a new layout!
Im gonna try and get down there for that race and give the car a shakedown. Any setup tips for RCE with the B5M? Tire? prob blue dirtwebs open cell front closed cell rear?
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:45 AM   #9086
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Never could get used to drag brake... Car would snap loose to much!!
Then you simply had too much. It isn't an on/off setting. I set mine JUST enough to control how easily the car rolls on it's own. I am running %12 or so on my Hobbywing. It's not very much at all.. you can just barely tell it is there. Run too much, and yeah, you would literally be hitting the brakes when your trigger reaches it's neutral point.
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:53 AM   #9087
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Im gonna try and get down there for that race and give the car a shakedown. Any setup tips for RCE with the B5M? Tire? prob blue dirtwebs open cell front closed cell rear?
I really haven't been much of anywhere else offroad besides RCE, so my setup suggestions are probably limited. In general though, kit springs, f/r 32.5/30 oil with f/r 1.6 or 3x1.4 pistons, and b5 arms should get you going.

Tires, probably blue or green dirtwebs or PL electrons. Closed cell rear, front is your preference.
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:58 AM   #9088
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I have tried these Vant shorty batteries from Barn Floor RC and love them. Good price, great performance and the shipping is instant. Use coupon code ILLTRYVANT for additional discount and free shipping.

http://thebarnfloor.com/catalog/prod...3#.VGYAIU0tCUk
What's with the dual 4mm plugs? Do they both need to be plugged in? I run 4mm low profile connectors on my esc's.
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Old 11-14-2014, 12:00 PM   #9089
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Being new to 2wd, I need some tips on braking? Last week running on damp clay, slicks all around was the best tire option, but my brakes were useless! Every time I used them the car would whip around and lock the rear up. Esc brakes are set at 40 in a Tekin RS, radio EPA was at 80 with some expo to slow it down even more. The only thing I didn't get a chance to try was drag brake. Is it just a learning curve with 2wd or could it be somewhere in the setup?
yes too much break. try to recalibrate the esc and radio again to make sure everything is set right. try it again and see where your at. highly likely you will need to dial down the esc break and the epA. you should be able to haul ass down the straight away and slam on the breaks... the car should not break free, just slow down.
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Old 11-14-2014, 12:29 PM   #9090
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What's with the dual 4mm plugs? Do they both need to be plugged in? I run 4mm low profile connectors on my esc's.
Here's what their website says ...."Dual 4mm Ports Note: You do not need to use all four 4mm ports when connecting the battery to your speed control. You can use only 2 ports as usual. The extra ports are provided for high-current draw systems since the battery has such a high output rating."

I have mine soldered 90 deg to the bullet plug. Sticks up a few mm, but all in all, fits great in the B5M.
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