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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 11-08-2014, 03:52 PM   #8986
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I am currently running the rear motor front end and rear end pretty close to the setup that was run at the Nats. I am going to try the brass blocks I was also considering cutting out some of the chassis braces. Has anyone had any luck with that.
There is a rear end flex mod on B5Nation. Kinda interesting


https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...4813915&type=1
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Old 11-08-2014, 03:58 PM   #8987
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I ran my converted 5M for the first time last night and it was good right from the start. I built wit the 5R F arms and tower, and rear arms with the hubs all the way back. I also had both brass rear blocks, and went back and forth with shorty/square pack. I tq'd and won 17.5, but a few of the regular fast guys weren't there, and they can run as much as .5ths faster than I was able too, so I need to get some more steering.


What are the wheelbase settings for the 5R and 5M arms, I know the R can produce a shorter wb, but how much 1 or 2 mm?

I need to work on a bit more mid corner steering without loosing too much rear bite.
The RM rear arms shorten the wheelbase by 1.5mm.
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Old 11-08-2014, 05:12 PM   #8988
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There is a rear end flex mod on B5Nation. Kinda interesting


https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...4813915&type=1
I have done that same mod for about a month but did not raise the brace. I only opened up the holes for bolt flex and put the orings under the head and red locktighted the m3 screws. The buggy fealt alot better on cornering and forward bite... I wonder how much more i can gain by raising the brace...
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Old 11-08-2014, 06:37 PM   #8989
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I posted the mod on the nation. Raising the brace will help reduce/ eliminate any chassis preload that may occur by just adding o rings to the top. It let's the top of the brace truly float rounds the screws. Shim it just high enough to allow you to slip the o ring under the top (a few thousandths less is ok). Only tighten the screw enough so the are all touching. No need to CLAMP them down.
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Old 11-08-2014, 06:54 PM   #8990
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I posted the mod on the nation. Raising the brace will help reduce/ eliminate any chassis preload that may occur by just adding o rings to the top. It let's the top of the brace truly float rounds the screws. Shim it just high enough to allow you to slip the o ring under the top (a few thousandths less is ok). Only tighten the screw enough so the are all touching. No need to CLAMP them down.
Sounds good.... Gonna try it this week and run some laps!!
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Old 11-08-2014, 09:43 PM   #8991
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Kicked some TLR ass today!

One guy drove mine and said he was selling his 22 2.0 tonight and ordering one Monday lol...
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Old 11-09-2014, 05:31 PM   #8992
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Take turnbuckles off and steering is flawless put the front left turnbuckle on and it's still good but I put the right turnbuckle on and its binding on the ball up connected to the c-hub. The ball ends are the right way and everything is measured to the standard setup what am i missing?
http://youtu.be/yzYhq7qFXxA
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Old 11-09-2014, 06:01 PM   #8993
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Take turnbuckles off and steering is flawless put the front left turnbuckle on and it's still good but I put the right turnbuckle on and its binding on the ball up connected to the c-hub. The ball ends are the right way and everything is measured to the standard setup what am i missing?
http://youtu.be/yzYhq7qFXxA
Read the first page of this thread... binding on the turnbuckle ends with the ballstuds is a known problem. There are a couple of ways people have "worn them in" so the binding goes away.
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Old 11-09-2014, 06:20 PM   #8994
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Read the first page of this thread... binding on the turnbuckle ends with the ballstuds is a known problem. There are a couple of ways people have "worn them in" so the binding goes away.
Thanks god for the dremel haha thanks for the response next time I'll read before I speak, all is smoothe now
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Old 11-09-2014, 06:32 PM   #8995
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Hey guy's does the b5m like the 2.2's or the 2.4's..? thanks in advance.
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Old 11-09-2014, 06:51 PM   #8996
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Hey guy's does the b5m like the 2.2's or the 2.4's..? thanks in advance.
either work fine. I like the 2.4s on higher bite tracks, less sidewall flex.
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Old 11-09-2014, 06:55 PM   #8997
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either work fine. I like the 2.4s on higher bite tracks, less sidewall flex.
thanks much, be a tight sticky track. Just ordered 2.4 clay electrons.
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Old 11-09-2014, 11:18 PM   #8998
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Who wants to try and adapt this to work?

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Old 11-10-2014, 12:27 AM   #8999
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I'm on the fence about picking one of these kits up. Have a B4.2 that I have working pretty well along with all the spares and kit that goes with it. I assume some or most of you ran the B4s, looking for some words on how the two compare. Would be going from rear motor B4.2 to mid motor B5. All the fastest guys at my track run mid motor cars, just haven't got the chance to drive one yet. Is it worth selling off the old setup?
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Old 11-10-2014, 06:18 AM   #9000
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I'm on the fence about picking one of these kits up. Have a B4.2 that I have working pretty well along with all the spares and kit that goes with it. I assume some or most of you ran the B4s, looking for some words on how the two compare. Would be going from rear motor B4.2 to mid motor B5. All the fastest guys at my track run mid motor cars, just haven't got the chance to drive one yet. Is it worth selling off the old setup?
I dont know anyone that prefers the B4 to the B5 (Rm or MM).
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