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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 10-27-2014, 09:38 AM   #8761
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I'm running the Proline Phantom now. Going to try a JConcepts Finnisher next. Mostly because my B44.3 came with a Finnisher lol
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Old 10-27-2014, 10:00 AM   #8762
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On the contrary, when building this car, one of the first things that came to mind was how robust the hingepins are. If you are bending hingepins and shock shafts... im guessing there is an abuse issue with the car.

some don't believe the walls are undefeated.
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Old 10-27-2014, 01:01 PM   #8763
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Decided to try in line electronics layout. Definetly better for me and what I like.
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Old 10-27-2014, 01:40 PM   #8764
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also moving to completely in-line this week.
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Old 10-27-2014, 01:48 PM   #8765
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I'm running the Proline Phantom now. Going to try a JConcepts Finnisher next. Mostly because my B44.3 came with a Finnisher lol
Thanks Ill check that one out.
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Old 10-27-2014, 02:11 PM   #8766
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Decided to try in line electronics layout. Definetly better for me and what I like.
What were you running for a battery Tom? Saddle?
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Old 10-27-2014, 02:56 PM   #8767
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Inline layout may be all the rage for stock racing, but with anything, weight transfer is key. Look at the 6-7 pounds folks add to other MM cars. The battery is located where it is to facilitate wieght transfer and add stability. This is crucial in modified racing. If you go inline, you usually have to compensate with wieght and softer spring/oil.
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Old 10-27-2014, 03:03 PM   #8768
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I ran mine unglued, bearings were crunchy feeling after first day of racing. I glued the inserts (per recommendation from AE) and now after four more race days (since gluing) the bearings still feel like new. So unless something is worn out, gluing them in is just fine, I had no problem with the bearings not lining up when done.
So it's not the crush tube that everyone was screaming about? I was saying it's the inserts not lining up since day one of the kits hitting the streets. I went to the hard inserts and that helped a little until the lip shears off in a crash.

It's mind boggling there's no aluminum inserts out yet from anyone.
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Old 10-27-2014, 03:06 PM   #8769
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Has anyone tried the offset caster block inserts?....With what results?just orders a set and would like to know what I'm in for.
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Old 10-27-2014, 03:39 PM   #8770
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Has anyone tried the offset caster block inserts?....With what results?just orders a set and would like to know what I'm in for.
more mid to exit steering
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Old 10-27-2014, 06:26 PM   #8771
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Decided to try in line electronics layout. Definetly better for me and what I like.


Same here, In line lay out.... I also switched to RM front tower, arms front and rear. This set up makes the car work well for me.
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Old 10-27-2014, 06:55 PM   #8772
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more mid to exit steering
Is that with the thicker one on top?

Thanks
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Old 10-27-2014, 08:23 PM   #8773
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Inline layout may be all the rage for stock racing, but with anything, weight transfer is key. Look at the 6-7 pounds folks add to other MM cars. The battery is located where it is to facilitate wieght transfer and add stability. This is crucial in modified racing. If you go inline, you usually have to compensate with wieght and softer spring/oil.
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Old 10-27-2014, 08:36 PM   #8774
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Originally Posted by iTz Nicholas72 View Post
I'm running the Proline Phantom now. Going to try a JConcepts Finnisher next. Mostly because my B44.3 came with a Finnisher lol
I actually bought the Finnisher a month ago but just finished painting it because i picked up the B44.3.
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Old 10-27-2014, 08:41 PM   #8775
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So it's not the crush tube that everyone was screaming about? I was saying it's the inserts not lining up since day one of the kits hitting the streets. I went to the hard inserts and that helped a little until the lip shears off in a crash.

It's mind boggling there's no aluminum inserts out yet from anyone.
There has to be something going on, was running 3* trailing and bearings were ok. Switched to 4* and they are crunchy as hell!
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