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Old 10-17-2014, 11:31 AM   #8521
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I agree, Cup or spring is wrong. Should be easy to find once you strip them down and compare parts.

FWIW, I am loving my inline setup. One of the really fast guys in Expert stock at my local track is running a 15.4 best lap. My best lap was a 15.7 and he is a MUCH better driver than I am. So for me, this setup is working well.
Fast lap is good.. you might be closer to his level than you think. BUT... it's not a fast lap that matters... it's your top 10, top 20, and overall average that wins the race. There are guys at my track I can put two laps on who are pretty close with their fast lap.
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Old 10-17-2014, 12:01 PM   #8522
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I will double check spring cup. I only have one set of front and one set of rear springs. This is my first kit in 20 plus years. When i built the shocks I noticed that I could not get any of the shocks to react the same way twice no matter how many times I bled and how long I waited for air to rise and escape. All 4 shocks have varying degrees of how much of an opposite reaction to compressing or extending shocks all the way. Am i making any sense? What about ball cup hanging up? Maybe rear arm pins not being smooth. Won't get home tonight till late, but I will be checking the spring cups. You all using ride height gauges or just eyeballing it?
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Old 10-17-2014, 12:08 PM   #8523
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you can eye ball it as bones level and front arms level. take the shocks off. make sure the L/R shocks are the same length. with the shocks off make sure the suspension is free. If it is binding, remove the camber links from the hubs and check again. if it still binds you might need to work on the pins. if it frees up, that means your ball cups are binding. search this thread for how to pinch the cups. once the suspension is free all around, put the shocks on and try again. I have no idea what you are doing on your shock build, but pump them 5 times or so, then check rebound. they should have no rebound. Many guys bleed the shocks with the spring cups on. Why? a little more oil and you shocks when mounted cant compress past the thickness of the cups.
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Old 10-17-2014, 12:30 PM   #8524
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When i get shocks off should I take springs off to check and see if they are same length? All of my shocks have some degree of rebound when I compress them fully. I have pinched the all the cups with pliers. Wildcat, can you pm me on the parts list to swap over to the Losi parts you mentioning months ago. I am just now to page 350 in this thread. I like the idea of leaving (correct) spring cups on while bleeding. What are you using to shim the slop out of the rear arms that move back and forth?
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Old 10-17-2014, 01:09 PM   #8525
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When i get shocks off should I take springs off to check and see if they are same length? All of my shocks have some degree of rebound when I compress them fully. I have pinched the all the cups with pliers. Wildcat, can you pm me on the parts list to swap over to the Losi parts you mentioning months ago. I am just now to page 350 in this thread. I like the idea of leaving (correct) spring cups on while bleeding. What are you using to shim the slop out of the rear arms that move back and forth?

I used these to shim the rear arms.
http://www.amain.com/Team-Losi-Racin...TLR-22/p193813

you are going to need ball studs and cups. Use your stock 2in tie rods, the tlr cupsd are a little shorter, so using short links will be an issue.
Here are the 10mm studs. I think it is like 10x 10mm studs 2x 8mm studs and 2x 6mm studs
http://www.amain.com/Team-Losi-Racin...TLR-22/p193872


tlr22 ball cups
http://www.amain.com/Team-Losi-Racin...TLR-22/p193778
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Old 10-17-2014, 01:25 PM   #8526
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Fast lap is good.. you might be closer to his level than you think. BUT... it's not a fast lap that matters... it's your top 10, top 20, and overall average that wins the race. There are guys at my track I can put two laps on who are pretty close with their fast lap.
Oh trust me, I get that... I only use fast lap to see if the setup is really any better. I can normally get one or two laps that are a good .2 lower than my average.
Overall, I feel like I do not have to push as hard to make the car faster with the inline layout... I can drive more relaxed and still be as fast when I was really trying to hard before.

A few more changes this week and I will see how it does at the races next week.
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Old 10-17-2014, 01:57 PM   #8527
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Thanks wildcat
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Old 10-17-2014, 02:15 PM   #8528
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If your not winning you better be putting the fast lap down haha.
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Old 10-17-2014, 02:31 PM   #8529
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Fast lap is nice bragging rights...
I use it more to see if my setup is working... I know my driving is 90% of my problem... I just want that other 10% to be the best it can be.
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Old 10-17-2014, 02:32 PM   #8530
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yep all true. the firmware features will probably be the same though. I said there were differences, lol. solder posts in the back and i am sure Reedy used better than avg parts.
No, not true. The BB 410R is not made by SKYRC.

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Old 10-17-2014, 03:56 PM   #8531
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All these new ESC's are starting to all look alike! The BB410R sure looks similar to the Orion.
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Old 10-17-2014, 04:52 PM   #8532
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All these new ESC's are starting to all look alike! The BB410R sure looks similar to the Orion.
I like my Viper Black Edition esc's, they are unique enough for me and work very well.
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Old 10-17-2014, 06:14 PM   #8533
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All these new ESC's are starting to all look alike! The BB410R sure looks similar to the Orion.
that's because they are both hobbywings
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Old 10-17-2014, 07:07 PM   #8534
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that's because they are both hobbywings
That's what I was thinking......


Guess I'll stick to my $129 HW's
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Old 10-17-2014, 08:07 PM   #8535
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Have any of you guys rans both the Schelle slipper and avid ? Does one have an advantage over the other one ? I run mod with a trinity 7.5. Im using the stock slipper right now.
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