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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 10-14-2014, 07:23 PM   #8446
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80% of the parts? What the heck you talking about?
come on mate, on this page alone people are replacing bearings, cutting parts out of the car, replacing pistons etc.

Admittedly 80% is a bit of an exaggeration but if you made a list of all the most influential parts of the design then compared that to the list of parts many people change (or the list provided on page 1 of this thread) the % would be quite high.

Anyway I get it its fun to tinker and personalise your car, just seems wired that you invest $259 USD or $375 AUD only to remove a significant amount of core parts
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Old 10-14-2014, 07:46 PM   #8447
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come on mate, on this page alone people are replacing bearings, cutting parts out of the car, replacing pistons etc.

Admittedly 80% is a bit of an exaggeration but if you made a list of all the most influential parts of the design then compared that to the list of parts many people change (or the list provided on page 1 of this thread) the % would be quite high.

Anyway I get it its fun to tinker and personalise your car, just seems wired that you invest $259 USD or $375 AUD only to remove a significant amount of core parts
Buy a Kyosho!
I would prefer to spend $259 and another $70-90 in hop-ups instead of spending $450 just for a kit! Yeah thats what the RB6 sells for! Pretty sure people buy hop-ups for them too!
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Old 10-14-2014, 08:03 PM   #8448
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come on mate, on this page alone people are replacing bearings, cutting parts out of the car, replacing pistons etc.

Admittedly 80% is a bit of an exaggeration but if you made a list of all the most influential parts of the design then compared that to the list of parts many people change (or the list provided on page 1 of this thread) the % would be quite high.

Anyway I get it its fun to tinker and personalise your car, just seems wired that you invest $259 USD or $375 AUD only to remove a significant amount of core parts
Changing out bearings that go bad, making cuts to plastic to fit electronics, or changing pistons, are all things that everybody does to EVERY single car out there as they wear, or as setup requirements change for the track.

Literally NOTHING on the car "has" to be replaced (or cut) for it to be completely competitive right out of the box. This is easily the most bang-for-the-buck race kit I have ever built... and I have raced most of them. Cmon, "mate".
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Old 10-14-2014, 08:07 PM   #8449
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My kit bearings were fine after I soaked the grease out of them. They are 3 months old and still in good shape. Am I the chosen one?
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Old 10-14-2014, 08:14 PM   #8450
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Most of the money is spent on the stock class. That is the case with any 2wd buggy. everyone in stock has pucks these days. they run slipper eliminators and much more. It is a stupid class. The B5M is just heavy out of the box, mostly because it has a larger alum chassis than most brands. But outdoors that weight might be good. I run high bite indoor and stock weight felt like crap. So yeah, I spent some money. funny thing is, i prefer mod these days, so some of the money was a waste.
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Old 10-14-2014, 08:57 PM   #8451
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Is the Orion program box worth the price for those guys running the r10 esc's?
Just got one, at track super cool to change things.
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Old 10-14-2014, 08:58 PM   #8452
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My kit bearings were fine after I soaked the grease out of them. They are 3 months old and still in good shape. Am I the chosen one?
Nope. I have probably 50 or 60 packs on my B5m.. bearings are flawless. Could be a batch thing, or an environment thing, i.e. a really dusty environment.
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Old 10-15-2014, 12:23 AM   #8453
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I run outdoor and you front and rear hub bearings feel like gravel bearings not ball.

One track it did fine at two days then on the third I went to a practice day and it was a dust bowl. I'll blame dust
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Old 10-15-2014, 06:35 AM   #8454
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Changing out bearings that go bad, making cuts to plastic to fit electronics, or changing pistons, are all things that everybody does to EVERY single car out there as they wear, or as setup requirements change for the track.

Literally NOTHING on the car "has" to be replaced (or cut) for it to be completely competitive right out of the box. This is easily the most bang-for-the-buck race kit I have ever built... and I have raced most of them. Cmon, "mate".
Totally agree ^^^
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Old 10-15-2014, 06:39 AM   #8455
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Ordered an Avid Evo Triad, hopefully it will be in time for race Saturday.

Between that, cutting my backup waterfall, and the 3X1.4 pistons I'm picking up at the track I have pretty much everything tuning wise I want...
I think you will like the Avid Triad, I think it's the best thing I've put on my car, night and day difference (for me atleast) from the stock slipper setup.
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Old 10-15-2014, 06:44 AM   #8456
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I run outdoor and you front and rear hub bearings feel like gravel bearings not ball.

One track it did fine at two days then on the third I went to a practice day and it was a dust bowl. I'll blame dust
Certainly high dust situations can shorten bearing life. Really the only bearings I have had go "bad" were the front axle bearings, after first race they were crunchy feeling. My crush tube must be the updated version (possibly) as they seem to be the correct thickness. I do have some play in the bearing inserts now that the car is broken in and AE recommended gluing the inserts to stop the play, they believe that the play is what is killing the bearings.

So.....I've glued my inserts, replaced the bearings and while I was in there, replaced the axles with Lundsford titanium axles.
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Old 10-15-2014, 10:30 AM   #8457
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Default B5M Light dust set up

I have been running my 17.5 B5M on a smooth, hard packed clay surface that has performed well early in the day for qualifiers. As the day progresses and the track starts to dry and develop a light dust coating (even if the track is blown off) the car starts to get real loose, which i understand should be somewhat normal for the MM. I am running Barcode Golds front and rear, and am wondering if i should go to a pin style or Goosebump type tire once the track starts to dry off... does anyone have suggestions on set up for the BM5 on a dry track? I also have turned the punch down before the main, as well as run the slipper flush with the end... however i was told the 17.5 does not have enough torque for the slipper to come into play anyways, and maybe that is true, because after running the whole day and taking it apart to inspect, the pads do not look like they slipped at all. thanks!
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Old 10-15-2014, 10:41 AM   #8458
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I have been running my 17.5 B5M on a smooth, hard packed clay surface that has performed well early in the day for qualifiers. As the day progresses and the track starts to dry and develop a light dust coating (even if the track is blown off) the car starts to get real loose, which i understand should be somewhat normal for the MM. I am running Barcode Golds front and rear, and am wondering if i should go to a pin style or Goosebump type tire once the track starts to dry off... does anyone have suggestions on set up for the BM5 on a dry track? I also have turned the punch down before the main, as well as run the slipper flush with the end... however i was told the 17.5 does not have enough torque for the slipper to come into play anyways, and maybe that is true, because after running the whole day and taking it apart to inspect, the pads do not look like they slipped at all. thanks!
Have you tried a super soft tire when it drys out? I normally run clay tires, but if traction drops, SS tires work great. I prefer Proline SS tires. The JC ones just never seem to stick to the track like M4 tires.
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Old 10-15-2014, 10:43 AM   #8459
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Old 10-15-2014, 10:45 AM   #8460
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IMO the drawing looks better than the final product. Also, white is terrible. All the plastic on the car is black...why make a white waterfall.
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