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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 10-06-2014, 08:11 AM   #8311
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I run a 1258tg in all my rigs. Very fast and plenty reliable in my opinion. Never had an issue. I run a M12 radio and have to turn it down most times cause it's too fast.
1258tg has never done me wrong either. Still have a couple. Great servo for the price.
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Old 10-06-2014, 09:39 AM   #8312
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Just for the F-of it I bought a B5R with everything you could imagine just to try out to see if I really liked MM beter. It was interesting. My track has incredible traction. Its sugared bluegroove. It was 95 today. Days like this any tire will work. I ran th B5R and was able to run the exact same fast laps but had to drive the wheels off of it. I found the MM car to be much easier to drive and I was way more consistent. The rear motor car is well under 1500 grams while the MM is 1550 or so. I ran the same tires, motor, ESC....I tried hard to get them even. Both wheelied at the start.....etc etc. Once you learn to drive MM I just do see while you'd drive an RM car.

I just wanted to share. I've been doing a lot of testing. I also found that I'm .4 faster with my B5M than my RB6M.
I drove my old b4.2 back to back against the B5M and also was much more consistent and with the brass C&D I had about as much traction coming off a slow corner but with the B5M could keep the rear end more under control when it steps out where the RM would instantly spin about.

I have a few cars so I think any condition where a MM wouldn't work, I just wouldn't drive the class at this point.
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Old 10-06-2014, 09:41 AM   #8313
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Anyone run a savox 1258 servo...currently have a spektrum 6070.like to try something differant
I've been running it since the B4.2 and moved it over. Works great for me. If I were buying new I might go for one of the high voltage setups with more speed.
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Old 10-06-2014, 10:19 AM   #8314
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Anyone know if the AE plastic shock caps come with the nylon washers?
They do not Leigh...only bleeder screws. I put new ones on last Friday because a spotted a speck of dirt on one of the old ones.
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Old 10-06-2014, 10:22 AM   #8315
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so this is the only way to get them?

http://teamassociated.com/parts/details/91492/
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Old 10-06-2014, 02:56 PM   #8316
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Yep, that is what I did.
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Old 10-06-2014, 03:14 PM   #8317
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doubt they are needed anyway. Old bleeder screws stopped oil from leaking just fine without little washers. Shouldn't be a big deal.
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Old 10-06-2014, 08:16 PM   #8318
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I just bought the pack to have extra in case I did the dreaded drop on the ground and couldn't find it.
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Old 10-07-2014, 05:08 AM   #8319
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I have a few cars so I think any condition where a MM wouldn't work, I just wouldn't drive the class at this point.
I'm kinda with you on that one. If MM doesn't work, drive 8th scale LOL
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:10 AM   #8320
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Default B5R arms and tower on B5M

I have used the search function to research this tuning tip of running the B5R front tower, as well as front and rear arms for "better traction" and i see it referanced all over, but cannot find the explanation of why it provides better traction. Does anyone know, and if so, do you order the "hard" arms and shock tower? Thanks
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:20 AM   #8321
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An ae driver told me the steering mid corner feels more consistent other than that I'm unsure hard or plastic arms
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:27 AM   #8322
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I have used the search function to research this tuning tip of running the B5R front tower, as well as front and rear arms for "better traction" and i see it referanced all over, but cannot find the explanation of why it provides better traction. Does anyone know, and if so, do you order the "hard" arms and shock tower? Thanks
it has been explained a lot. The rear arms are for traction as they move the rear wheels forward ~2mm. The flat arms on the front make the car more consistent to drive.
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:38 AM   #8323
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Yeah, that's exactly the responses I have found as well, just never an actual explanation as to "why" the front would be more consistent (I would be interested in hearing the physics behind that theory) as well as moving the rear tires forward would help minimally (given that there are way more effective ways to balance for traction) and doesn't make sense due to the fact a slightly longer wheelbase helps the stability on the straights. If I could find drivers who could attest that it no doubt improved the drive-ability of the car, I would be willing to give it a shot, however it looks to me like some Factory drivers bolted the parts on, and instantly Associated sold thousands of sets of arms and front towers that they normally would not have sold. They intelligently found another market for those items.
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:51 AM   #8324
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Originally Posted by heinen81 View Post
I have used the search function to research this tuning tip of running the B5R front tower, as well as front and rear arms for "better traction" and i see it referanced all over, but cannot find the explanation of why it provides better traction. Does anyone know, and if so, do you order the "hard" arms and shock tower? Thanks
This is what a local Pro level driver said when I asked the same question.

"Having the mounting point of the shock below the linear plain of the arm gives the arm more leverage over the shock which equates to more grip. This makes the car twitchy and less stable which is why guys swap to flat arm."

I figured that I would run the car as is with the gull wing arms until I'm proficient enough to know what the difference feels like when I try the flat arms. I feel like the car is great as-is really so when I feel like the car is holding me back I might try some flat arms.
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:55 AM   #8325
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Originally Posted by heinen81 View Post
Yeah, that's exactly the responses I have found as well, just never an actual explanation as to "why" the front would be more consistent (I would be interested in hearing the physics behind that theory) as well as moving the rear tires forward would help minimally (given that there are way more effective ways to balance for traction) and doesn't make sense due to the fact a slightly longer wheelbase helps the stability on the straights. If I could find drivers who could attest that it no doubt improved the drive-ability of the car, I would be willing to give it a shot, however it looks to me like some Factory drivers bolted the parts on, and instantly Associated sold thousands of sets of arms and front towers that they normally would not have sold. They intelligently found another market for those items.
The geometry of the M front tower and gullwing arms make the front end softer and a bit more aggressive than running the flat arms and R tower. In higher grip situations the flat arms and R tower are easier to drive and don't feel as aggressive. It's all in setup and tuning and driving preference. I've seen fast drivers get both to work for them in any condition.

The rear. That's plain and simple. Moving the rear arms forward will give more grip on throttle period. Just like moving the rear hubs forward with the included washers. This is just a a more pronounced effect. A longer wheelbase will be more stable yes BUT a shorter wheelbase provides more grip which to a lot of people makes it feel more comfortable.
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