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Old 08-29-2014, 04:21 PM   #7576
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My comment was complete sarcasm.
Go be an ass somewhere else.....
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Old 08-29-2014, 04:33 PM   #7577
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I was going to ask - what is the proper method for "breaking in" tires?
Practice laps!

After a few laps you should be able to see one side of the tread rounded off a bit, then can make sure to put them back on the same way to keep the broken in feel, then can flip around if you want the fresh edge again.
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Old 08-29-2014, 04:38 PM   #7578
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Go be an ass somewhere else.....
If you've been following the whole "ball cup" issue at all you would have understood his sarcasm and laughed it off. Relax, I doubt he was trying to be a donkey.
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Old 08-29-2014, 04:50 PM   #7579
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I was going to ask - what is the proper method for "breaking in" tires?
As you run your tires in a certain direction, you begin to wear off the leading corner edge of the "pin" of the tire. As that "face" starts to grow, you start gaining traction. If you swap your rear tires Left to Right, you are now driving on the backside of the pin, where it isn't broken in yet. In offroad racing, make sure you never swap/rotate your drive tires. Always mark one "R", and one "L" and run them that way till the tires are no good.

On the same coin, I always rotate my fronts.
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Old 08-29-2014, 04:50 PM   #7580
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If you've been following the whole "ball cup" issue at all you would have understood his sarcasm and laughed it off. Relax, I doubt he was trying to be a donkey.
I haven't seen all the posts relating to the ball cup issue, but I've seen a few and the tips for fixing the issue. I wasn't trying to start a verbal fight or anything, I just have no time for sarcasm that's all.
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:26 PM   #7581
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Spent alot of timing searching and coming up with multiple answers and need some advice before tomorrow. I just converted both of my buggies to MM. Went out and practiced last night and these were horrible handling. I used the flat arms with rear tower and rear b5r arms. My setup is basically to the book minus the arm conversions. Only other thing i can think of is i used 3+2 on the back hinge mount. Im running on outdoor dusty large 1/8 scale track. Big technical parts with multiple turns!! Can be very loose!! Running with calibers on rear or goose bumps or dd's!! Ribs on front!!! My problem is the rear is so loose!!! No grip at all!! Both buggies just will not hook!!! I need some help before racing tomorrow.... Thanks wildcat 1971 for ur input also!!
Start with this rear end.

Brass c block
3+0 pill ( 3 degree toe 0 anti squat)
Rm plastic rear arms with hubs all the way forward.
Shocks all inside on rear tower, inside on arm
No shims under rear ball stud mount. (Assuming plastic)
Rear shocks
Green springs on 3x1.4 30 wt.
2 limiters

Try to gear around 100 total teeth. (Moves motor closer to rear axle)
If you still need extra help squaring up, use .5 degree outer hubs
If you need more stability in sliding rear in corners, longer rear link.
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:27 PM   #7582
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I haven't seen all the posts relating to the ball cup issue, but I've seen a few and the tips for fixing the issue. I wasn't trying to start a verbal fight or anything, I just have no time for sarcasm that's all.
Then you've missed a lot, including the reason for his sarcasm. Water under the bridge at this point my friend.
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:29 PM   #7583
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
As you run your tires in a certain direction, you begin to wear off the leading corner edge of the "pin" of the tire. As that "face" starts to grow, you start gaining traction. If you swap your rear tires Left to Right, you are now driving on the backside of the pin, where it isn't broken in yet. In offroad racing, make sure you never swap/rotate your drive tires. Always mark one "R", and one "L" and run them that way till the tires are no good.

On the same coin, I always rotate my fronts.

What's funny is I don't rotate my fronts. Don't know why, nobody told me not to, I just don't. Now which one of us is wrong? Ready for a super mod throw down?
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:42 PM   #7584
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Then you've missed a lot, including the reason for his sarcasm. Water under the bridge at this point my friend.
Yeah I'm over it.
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Old 08-29-2014, 09:48 PM   #7585
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Originally Posted by xrayracer1 View Post
Aaaaah I see you did the same as me and got the Lunsford titanium turnbuckles. Good choice.
Suggested by a couple pretty smart folks around here

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There is so much awesome in that photo i dont know where to begin!
The Bruce Lee mural, the cigars......macbook...............B5m joy-gasm!!!!
Yes sir!

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Old 08-29-2014, 10:05 PM   #7586
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Originally Posted by wayboarder View Post
Start with this rear end.

Brass c block
3+0 pill ( 3 degree toe 0 anti squat)
Rm plastic rear arms with hubs all the way forward.
Shocks all inside on rear tower, inside on arm
No shims under rear ball stud mount. (Assuming plastic)
Rear shocks
Green springs on 3x1.4 30 wt.
2 limiters

Try to gear around 100 total teeth. (Moves motor closer to rear axle)
If you still need extra help squaring up, use .5 degree outer hubs
If you need more stability in sliding rear in corners, longer rear link.
You can also add more limiters in the front shocks. Will place more weight on the rear. Also lower rear ride height 1mm.

Biggest thing i found for track like that was loosening slipper off a couple turns as well.
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Old 08-29-2014, 11:28 PM   #7587
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Ran better laps in a MM. Problem is my buddy sold it so i was unable to copy his setup. He did not build it either so he has no idea what was done to it besides the b5r arms. His was glued to the track. When i drove it, it was almost like cheating!!
Might be similar to my local track. We run calibers/goosebumps and ribs/rips. A few of us run B5M's and are pretty much the ones to beat. I run the box setup with a saddle pack (light one though...nano-tech) I added 1 3/4 ounces and liked how it settled the car down. Maybe some weight would help your car? I like my rear shocks stood up a lot for outdoors.

The B5M stock seems really soft to me out of the box. My car isn't very good on our high grip indoor clay track with weight removed (need to try a shorty though). I just picked up a B5R to try also.
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Old 08-29-2014, 11:30 PM   #7588
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So what does the 4mm trailing axle do over the 3?

I'm currently running 3 forward, if I put the 4 in what can I expect?
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Old 08-30-2014, 04:27 AM   #7589
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Front wheel caster or trail: too little
Car too sensitive (twitchy?)
Too little steering feel and feedback
Front wheel caster or trail: too much
Excessive physical steering effort accompanied by too much self return action and transmittal of road shocks to the drivers hands
General lack of sensitivity to steering input due to excessive force required

From http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Vehic...d_Effect_Guide
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Old 08-30-2014, 07:18 AM   #7590
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Anyone got any recommendations for running on carpet? The car was pretty decent out of the box. Running a speed passion reventon R and 13.5 SP motor.
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