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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 03-26-2014, 08:21 AM
  #7216  
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DISCLAIMER: This is MY opinion and does not reflect the opinion of Team Associated or any of my "teammates".

When it comes screws/fasteners in R/C cars, I rate them in the following order:

#1 Titanium. Nearly as light as aluminum. As strong or stronger than steel. Won't rust like steel. Adds a bit of bling. One caveat: There are some cheap grades of Ti out there to be avoided. Con: Expensive.

#2 Stock fasteners or quality steel. There's a reason steel is still used to hold everything from iPhones to fighter jets together. Con : Heavy, prone to rust

#3 Aluminum. Lightweight. Ideal in low stress locations. Will not rust like steel. Can be anodized to give you some bling factor. Con: Not very strong. Can react to some cleaners. Anodizing fades over time.

#4 Stainless Steel. Shiny. USUALLY doesn't rust like steel. Some grades of stainless can rust. Con: As heavy or heavier than steel. Not as strong as steel.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:28 AM
  #7217  
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I getting one soon it at the lhs on layaway I ll have it end of may
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:38 AM
  #7218  
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Vito, I'm a LONG time AE fan, but as you know I've spent a ton of time running a 22 as well. I'll tell you this, sell your 22 so you can get your B5 sooner. For me, my B5 out of the box is as good or better than my 22 after months of tuning. But if you're willing to wait, run both and decide for yourself. Which is the best option.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:46 AM
  #7219  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
Vito, I'm a LONG time AE fan, but as you know I've spent a ton of time running a 22 as well. I'll tell you this, sell your 22 so you can get your B5 sooner. For me, my B5 out of the box is as good or better than my 22 after months of tuning. But if you're willing to wait, run both and decide for yourself. Which is the best option.
going mid in the 22 and theres talk of outdoor track and said rear motor for that
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:51 AM
  #7220  
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IMO, anything other than stock hardware is bling. UNLESS you're an A main caliber driver at the stock Nats. Racing against the top factory drivers.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
hate to tell you but I watched Mike Gay destroy everyone all summer long last year with a Centro outside on track that was low bite and sandy. M3 Holeshots front and rear type of track.

It is 100% driver preference. When he got his B5 a few months ago and had to run it here, he was significantly slower than he was with his Centro. As soon as he got his B5M, he was significantly faster than the Centro. And this was on a medium grip surface that is dominated by Rear Motor cars.

Like I said.... it's driver.
Hey Bob - What type of driver would prefer the MM? I had read a post suggesting that the MM cars (any of them) drive more like a 4wd car than a RM car. I run eBuggy and 4wd 1/10 Buggy too so I wonder if the MM would be a more consistent driving feel for me.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Grasschopper
Hey Bob - What type of driver would prefer the MM? I had read a post suggesting that the MM cars (any of them) drive more like a 4wd car than a RM car. I run eBuggy and 4wd 1/10 Buggy too so I wonder if the MM would be a more consistent driving feel for me.
I think or believe if you have a smooth throttle finger,like to roll it through the corners,like a onroad driver mm would be the preferred choice,
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:00 AM
  #7223  
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Originally Posted by vito
going mid in the 22 and theres talk of outdoor track and said rear motor for that
If you need a great tune for your mid 22 Vito I can send it to you.
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:00 AM
  #7224  
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Originally Posted by mxracer458
I think or believe if you have a smooth throttle finger,like to roll it through the corners,like a onroad driver mm would be the preferred choice,
Yea that's how I feel like drive the 2wd for sure...not so much the 4wd buggies.
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Grasschopper
Yea that's how I feel like drive the 2wd for sure...not so much the 4wd buggies.
myself i run stock,i have a heavy finger so i don't think the mm would fit me to well,but i do hope to try one
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by racer1812
IMO, anything other than stock hardware is bling. UNLESS you're an A main caliber driver at the stock Nats. Racing against the top factory drivers.
Well there are some things like the puck system, aluminum top shaft, Lunsford front axles, and titanium screws are not all bling because they can help drop a great deal of weight which can help a lot in stock class. Oh and titanium turnbuckles but just my opinion though
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:03 AM
  #7227  
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traying to fine a way to get the motor out of it with out un hooking it or cutting it out
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:03 AM
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Just for fun, I emailed the company offering the titanium screws about what grade they're made of. Here's the response: The titanium screws no grade!Is just plain titanium screws, 45% weight lighter than ordinary steel screws.

So, I'd say the price reflects the potential for a lower grade titanium. That being said, even a low grade titanium is likely going to be stronger than aluminum so you can still save some weight on a budget. You just might not get a 6Al4V grade ti...
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:05 AM
  #7229  
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Originally Posted by racer1812
Vito, I'm a LONG time AE fan, but as you know I've spent a ton of time running a 22 as well. I'll tell you this, sell your 22 so you can get your B5 sooner. For me, my B5 out of the box is as good or better than my 22 after months of tuning. But if you're willing to wait, run both and decide for yourself. Which is the best option.
i would run both and see what you like,when i ran my 22 it was dialed and a awesome car and i really liked it,i sold it to try something else so i had(friends still baffled when i did cause i was always tq) to try the serpent and that was not for me,so now i have a b5rm which I'm dying to try but its hard when you have two kids in baseball and the wife and i play softball.
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:08 AM
  #7230  
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Originally Posted by adam lancia
Just for fun, I emailed the company offering the titanium screws about what grade they're made of. Here's the response: The titanium screws no grade!Is just plain titanium screws, 45% weight lighter than ordinary steel screws.

So, I'd say the price reflects the potential for a lower grade titanium. That being said, even a low grade titanium is likely going to be stronger than aluminum so you can still save some weight on a budget. You just might not get a 6Al4V grade ti...
I ask someone who knows all about the Titanium.

Said they use the same tools to cut allumium screws as that cheepo Ti .


A good indication its not even close to the same hardness or grade as the better Titanium.
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