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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 08-14-2014, 01:31 PM   #6856
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So ?

Seems silly ....

Never seen a reason for doing.

Why polish at all ?
because stock ball cups bind without work done to the cup or stud. Pinching the ball caps help some but they still have some bind.

some people with bound ball cups have said the EXACT same thing to me. Then when i free up their cups properly they thank me.

reaming the ball cups is the best option but polishing can help as well.
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Old 08-14-2014, 01:37 PM   #6857
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because stock ball cups bind without work done to the cup or stud. Pinching the ball caps help some but they still have some bind.

some people with bound ball cups have said the EXACT same thing to me. Then when i free up their cups properly they thank me.

reaming the ball cups is the best option but polishing can help as well.
+1. I chucked the ball studs in a Dremel at low doped and used the polished compound sticks for polishing wheels. Made the ball cups move so freely and no slop. Removes just the right amount...
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Old 08-14-2014, 01:38 PM   #6858
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because stock ball cups bind without work done to the cup or stud. Pinching the ball caps help some but they still have some bind.
I don't so, built a few B5's already .
None had any binding with the cups.

Seen others have this problem before though.

I just replace the offending cup.

Everytime I check the old cup it had been screwed onto the rod to far.Cup gets a dent on the inside where the rod bumped though.

Just saying....
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Old 08-14-2014, 01:41 PM   #6859
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My pleasure....thinking back, i should have let it marinate for a bit before bursting the bubble.
There could have been at least three pages of good solid comedy about how that's how the teammates have been doing in TCRC for months.
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Old 08-14-2014, 01:42 PM   #6860
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I don't so, built a few B5's already .
None had any binding with the cups.

Seen others have this problem before though.

I just replace the offending cup.

Everytime I check the old cup it had been screwed onto the rod to far.Cup gets a dent on the inside where the rod bumped though.

Just saying....
Sorry, but i cut down turnbuckles and they still bound. We may just have difference in opinion of whats bound and what isnt... and thats ok. I just might hold myself to a higher standard of wrenching.. to each their own Jus Sayin
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Old 08-14-2014, 01:58 PM   #6861
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There could have been at least three pages of good solid comedy about how that's how the teammates have been doing in TCRC for months.
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Old 08-14-2014, 01:59 PM   #6862
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Rc , can say use what ever works for you .

Just wanted to get a better understanding why your polishing & give my reasons I don't have to do.
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Old 08-14-2014, 02:06 PM   #6863
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Rc , can say use what ever works for you .

Just wanted to get a better understanding why your polishing & give my reasons I don't have to do.
personally, i dont polish. I cut two threads off the JC turnbuckles, and then use a ball stud with slits cut in it to ream the ball cups. You should try.. will make tacompton setup soooo dialed.
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Old 08-14-2014, 02:13 PM   #6864
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There could have been at least three pages of good solid comedy about how that's how the teammates have been doing in TCRC for months.
Yesterday had another guy switch his ride to the Tacompton .2..



Braa.....
Lol
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Old 08-14-2014, 02:13 PM   #6865
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I posted a video a while back showing brand new stud with brand new cups. And the rod were only threat in by 2-3 threads. And they would stand up in the air without a load. I tried the same with with several different new cups and studs and it was 100% the same thing. To me a proper link is free moving like the tlr22 cups in my video. My cups are "ok" after being worked, but they are no where near the freeness of the tlr cups. But they are probably "free enough" I guess. I agree that the cup ream is probably the best method. I have not got around to ordering one and trying it yet. A guy I know bought them and I might see if I can play with it between rounds.


Here was the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NJD...JV_i33VjYn47zw
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Old 08-14-2014, 02:50 PM   #6866
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personally, i dont polish. I cut two threads off the JC turnbuckles, and then use a ball stud with slits cut in it to ream the ball cups. You should try.. will make tacompton setup soooo dialed.

TY for sharing that ..

Just using Bee's wax on the threads is all I have been doing.
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Old 08-14-2014, 04:15 PM   #6867
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I really do not understand why people just don't get it. The ball cups on our new cars are basically "eyelets" not cups like previous cars. Brand new ones can come a little out of round too. Even if your turn buckles are the "perfect" length, if you REALLY slam a pipe or have a BAD barrel roll, more times than not the eyelet/cup will distort in shape, causing a bind. If you take your pliers and give it a squeeze in the RIGHT place, bingo! Free as a bird again! No polishing and no rocket science involved either.
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Old 08-14-2014, 04:16 PM   #6868
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TY for sharing that ..

Just using Bee's wax on the threads is all I have been doing.
I dont even do that I use my man hands.
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Old 08-14-2014, 04:17 PM   #6869
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Last edited by Johnjoe38; 08-14-2014 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 08-14-2014, 04:26 PM   #6870
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I really do not understand why people just don't get it. The ball cups on our new cars are basically "eyelets" not cups like previous cars. Brand new ones can come a little out of round too. Even if your turn buckles are the "perfect" length, if you REALLY slam a pipe or have a BAD barrel roll, more times than not the eyelet/cup will distort in shape, causing a bind. If you take your pliers and give it a squeeze in the RIGHT place, bingo! Free as a bird again! No polishing and no rocket science involved either.
i agree with you.. to a point. Even with the perfect "pinch spot" (ive been doing that for 15 years on 1/8th scales) they still arent perfect without reaming the cups.
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